...when it comes to landscape lighting.

Remember a few years back when the “New Math” technique was introduced to classrooms? I don’t know if it’s pursued any more, and I hope it isn’t, because it was a LOT of unnecessary steps to get to a bottom line when the old way was much more efficient, in my opinion.

Now let’s talk some “New Math” with lighting. To get optimal performance from halogen and incandescent systems, here’s some “Old Math” formulas you either have to have memorized, have a cheat sheet, or use a manufacturer's system calculator. You do this in order to figure out EXACTLY what voltage tap to use on a transformer to reach that sweet spot between 10.8 and 12 Volts per fixture, using the HUB connection method:

First calculation: Watts / Volts = Amps

Then: Amps x Distance x (2 x Resistance per Foot) = Voltage Drop

Oh, wait, you'll need this in order to get that last variable (Resistance per Foot):

• 12 gauge wire:   .00162
• 10 gauge wire:   .00108
• 8 gauge wire:     .00064

So, if you have five 20 watt halogen fixtures going 100 feet and using 12 gauge wire:

• 5 x 20 (total watts) / 12 (volts) = 8.3 (amps) then
• 8.3 (amps) x 100 (feet) x [2 x .00162 (R/F)] = 2.68 (voltage drop)

So the transformer needed for halogen or incandescent lighting, you would either have to use the 15 Volt tap, or remove 1 fixture from wire. 10 gauge wasn’t too bad to work with, but 8 gauge was a nightmare. Most contractors would have cheater formulas in their heads, such as if a run was 100’ or less, then you would use 12-2 wire, or if it was longer, use 10-2 wire. You get the idea.

Now that we got through “Old Math”, here’s “New Math” when using LEDs. DID YOU KNOW that an LED’s “sweet spot” isn’t between 10.8 and 12 volts? Instead, it’s between 8 and 24 volts per fixture, which means there’s a LOT of wiggle room! LED lamps have a far less draw on wattage as compared to their halogen & incandescent cousins, and will have equivalent or superior lumen output.

Quick example: Depending on the manufacturer, a standard JC20 LED lamp running between 2-3 watts has an output between 200 and 250 lumens - equal to or better than a 20 watt halogen that will likely max out at 200. Less draw = less resistance on a wire run. Less resistance = lesser gauge wire. This also means that you don’t need all those taps in a transformer, which normally means the transformer costs less.  One tap should more than cover any run you have using 14-2 gauge wire. If you’re doing wire runs longer than 150’, you can always play it safe and bump up to a 12-2 gauge wire and that will solve the issue.

In conclusion, at least in my twisted opinion, when installing/designing a lighting system, the “Old Math” halogen methods are near obsolete as compared to LED’s “New Math”, meaning that it isn’t really necessary any more, due to advances in modern technology, and it will only improve from here. “New Math” outside of the landscape lighting world however… I can figure out 12 x 10 in my head instead of writing out a 12 part equation.

I don't want to bum you out, but winter is just around the corner.

I know, I know. It is the end of August. You have eight more weeks of landscape work left. And I am REALLY happy about that. In fact I wish you had twelve! But the reality is that by mid-November you are wrapping up your jobs and are planning your winter.

But I have a crazy suggestion. Start planning your winter now.

I was talking to my friend Chris Koontz from Carleton Equipment a few weeks ago, and he shared how busy Bobcat was. They are so busy they are taking many weeks to deliver new machines to customers. When I asked why, I was sort of shocked at the answer. Currently, build dates for new machines have been filled by dealers across the country for between four and six weeks. Not shocking. The shocking part was that it is taking ANOTHER three weeks to get the machine shipped from the factory to the dealer due to a lack of trucking. A new machine can take up to nine weeks to be delivered to you! He went on to say that other manufacturers are having the same issue. I believe him - it took two months to receive the new Kubota tractor we just bought.

So if you finish reading this article and call Carleton Equipment (for example) and order your machine today, you might not receive it until Halloween. If you wait until the end of the month, you will get your machine in time for deer season. If you wait until after Labor Day, you will have it in early December. See the trend? If you wait until Halloween to plan your winter, you will get your winter equipment after the New Year.

So don’t wait to plan your winter. Ordering equipment NOW is the smart play. Take advantage of financing. Avoid the end of the year rush. Be ahead of everyone else.

P.S. Carleton Equipment got snowplows in the first week of August. What are you waiting for?

You may have heard of a new fungus that has been damaging and killing boxwood in the US. It was first identified in Connecticut in 2011. Called Boxwood Blight, it has now been seen as near as Ohio. It has been predicted that it will continue to spread. Spores can be transferred by physical contact, splashing water, or wind.

Christensen’s Plant Center is taking the necessary steps to make sure that we have clean boxwood in stock for you at all times. This means following the best practices that have come from growers and distributors across the country.

Boxwood Blight is easily transferred by physical contact. Even brushing up against an infected plant means that you can transfer the fungus onto other plants later that day. To that end we must ask that you observe the following when visiting Christensen’s Plant Center.

• Please do not bring Boxwood plants or parts of a Boxwood into CPC. We will continue to do our best to identify any plant material via a photograph, but we can not have possibly infectious plants brought into our clean nursery.
• We will no longer accept any returns of Boxwood for any reason. Again, we cannot accept materials back once they have left our clean environment.

These practices are for your success as well as our own. Maintaining a clean facility ensures that we will be able to provide you with material that is free of Boxwood Blight for all of your projects now and in the future. Thank you for your help!

In the links below are PDFs with more information about this disease.

MSU Extension - Boxwood Blight Disease in North America (2.33 MB)

CAES - Boxwood Blight - A new disease for Connecticut and the U.S. (1.05 MB)

Guess what! We sell these! I don’t care how you say ‘em or spell ‘em as long as your check clears. I’m pretty sure my boss would agree with me. Hardly a day goes by that we don’t get contractor lists of hybridized and spell-’em-as-you-hear-’em names. I personally love the challenge! And yes, we do sell junipers - and yews.

In particular, Christensen’s sells a number of species of upright Junipers, the Eastern Redcedar. They are somewhat interchangeable with Arborvitae. Junipers require and tolerate hot, dry, sunny conditions but can have difficulties in poorly drained areas. They can be planted as backdrop accent evergreens or hedged into a living fence. A caveat is to avoid planting them too close to some members of the Rose family such as Crabs, Pears, Hawthorn, and Quince due to host/parasite rust occurrences.

The species of Juniperus that Christensen’s typically stocks are:

J. virginiana

• ‘Keteleer’ - a soft, green needle with loose habit; often used for native plantings
• ‘Taylor’ - a newer introduction with a bluish-green, tight habit; similar in form to Thuja occ. ‘Emerald Green’

J. chinensis

• ‘Blue Point’ - a bluish-green, full habit; often used for topiary
• ‘Hetz Columnaris’ - green needles with broad, architectual habit; best of the fruiting varieties we stock
• ‘Spartan’ - a green needled variey with a tight, upright habit

J. scopulorum (Rocky Mountain Junipers)

• ‘Blue Arrow’ - a soft, bluish upright with a very tight form
• ‘Skyrocket’ -a grayish, green variey similar in form to ‘Blue Arrow’
• ‘Wichita Blue’ - a broad, very blue form with very soft growth, but a rugged look

Availability for this genus is not quite as reliable as Arborvitae. We usually see periodic waves of uprights appear throughout the season. Junipers do, however, offer a greater range of color when compared to Arborvitae.

Next time you need an upright evergreen, ask to see some of the varieties just mentioned. Exact spelling not required!

Should I be fertilizing my trees and shrubs in August?

Ask five experts that question and be prepared for five different answers, at least that happened to me. Regardless of the type or size of your new landscape, maintenance will be required to ensure it stays healthy and looking the way it was designed to look. Although 95% of all problems with new plant material can be attributed to improper watering, fertilizers are going to play a big part in getting things established and staying healthy.

Early spring and late fall are obviously your major fertilizing moments, but let's look at right now. New plantings will be aided by the use of some starter fertilizer, especially at new housing and businesses where a lot of good soil has been stripped away. Some cities have poor soil to begin with, lacking nutrients to give plants a good start. We carry some great organic starter fertilizer containing bacteria and mycorrhizae to increase root mass and help avoid transplant loss due to difficult conditions. Light application of these starters and plenty of water will be key during this month.

Fertilizing established plants in August is a little tricky. To avoid stressing the plant, avoid fertilizing during drought or heatwave conditions. Know your soil and fertilize only when plants are truly nutrient deficient. Why? Because new growth forced by fertilizing during this period may not harden off before the onset of winter resulting in tip dieback that won't show until next spring sometime. That's a phone call you won't want to get!

Come by our store and we will help you choose the best product for your particular situation.

I love going to Costco on Saturday mornings. Down almost every aisle you’ll find somebody doling out samples, whether it be a tasty snack, a new beverage or an amazing cleaning product. I’ve even had someone showing me how soft their pillows are. I’ve learned to go only after I’ve eaten a large breakfast, and to leave my credit cards at home. If not, I’m often left wondering how I can fit $500 worth of food in my vehicle, in my fridge and in my belly!

Sampling is a great selling technique, but an even better tool. Customers will look at a catalog and find the perfect color, only to later find that it may look different in person. Like every other catalog, brick catalogs are carefully photographed and edited. The product you receive may be a slightly different shade, or have a blend of colors you may not have noticed. A few sample pieces that you can take to the site is a great way to see how it will work in your project.

At Christensen’s Hardscape Center, we will gladly sample out most of the products we stock. The exceptions are large items such as steps that require more than a single person to manage. However we can likely match the color with a similar product in a more manageable size. We can also get samples of products that we don’t have in the yard such as those from Fendt, Oaks, or Belgard. We work closely with our vendors, and they are happy to bring us samples upon request. It may take a few days depending on what you are looking for.

As a wholesaler, we do not sell to or give out samples to the general public. Your customers may come in for samples, but we ask that you please call us in advance so we know who they are and that they are legitimately working with you. Samples are free and do not need to be returned. We do request everyone who is looking for samples to please visit us in the showroom first so we can assist you in picking up what you need. Our yard is large and busy, and I don’t want anyone getting a sample of an accident.

Colorado blue spruce is one of the most popular evergreens we sell. The straight species is usually green, but the cultivar 'Glauca' ranges from bluish-green to an eye-popping silvery blue. The color is genetically determined and before grafting ornamental trees became the norm, the brightest blue seedlings were known as "shiners" and were selected out and sold at a premium. Now we have numerous cultivars with consistent, bright blue color. 

So why might you get calls from customers complaining that their expensive blue tree is turning green? Firstly, the blue color is only present on the new growth, weathering off in time. Pesticides can strip off this waxy blue coating from the needles as well. Other culprits can be air pollution, or poor growing conditions that keep new foliage to a minimum.

Once the blue color has worn off the needle, nothing will bring it back and the tree is going to look green until that flush of new growth each spring. However, you can encourage the best possible color by providing ideal growing conditions and care. Spruce prefer moist, well-drained soil, and you may fertilize established trees in early fall or mid-spring.

Horticulturally speaking, the color blue is rare. So rare, that many of the flowers we call "blue" are in fact... purple. Blue iris? Purple. Blue roses? HA! Purple - and weak at that. Syringa, Campanula, Lobelia, Hyacinth, Baptisia... all have varieties CALLED blue, but they are... purple. I found this quite confusing when I started in the nursery business. Apparently we gardeners are DESPERATE for blue in the garden and we will call anything close "blue".

This tendency extends to foliage as well - blue spruce, blue juniper, and blue hosta, are all rather more silvery than blue, with the added insult of the color wearing off with weather and time! I still chuckle about the customer I had on the retail lot one day, who accused us of spray-painting the 'Moerheim' spruce because, "Look! It rubs off!" There wasn't much I could say because he was right, it did.

There ARE a few truly blue flowers we can grow in Michigan. Amsonia, Delphinium, Virginia Bluebells, the annual 'Black and Blue' Salvia, Forget-me-nots, Sisyrinchium, and Ceratostigma all have excellent blue flowers. Scilla siberica is a minor bulb that naturalizes and can give you an ocean of blue flowers every spring. Chionodoxa's pretty good, too.

In shrubs you can try Caryopteris - wait, that one's a bit on the purple side - heck, it's barely a shrub, more like a woody perennial. Hmmmm. Hibiscus 'Blue Chiffon' is pretty blue. Almost. OKAY, OKAY, FINE. You want blue? You'd best be planting Hydrangea. The old favorite, 'Nikko Blue' has been surpassed by newer cultivars like Nantucket Blue™ and The Endless Summer® line, with the original Endless Summer®, Twist-n-Shout®, and BloomStruck®  all of which bloom on both old and new wood. These plants can be coaxed into producing nice blue blooms with the proper soil pH.

So you do have some options. And take those photos of bright blue-flowering plants on Pinterest with a grain of salt. Most of them are Photoshop. Or perhaps dyed like those poor Phalenopsis orchids at the grocery store.