Selecting plants that can grow under dry conditions can be challenging. Selecting plants that can grow in the shade can be challenging as well. Finding plants that can grow well under both conditions? Well, that narrows your plant selection down a bit, but there may be more options than you think.

It must be realized that even though a plant is considered drought tolerant, this is only the case once their root systems are firmly established. Until that point, they must be watered regularly. This could take up to a year or more of effort before you can cut back on the watering, but during extended droughts, even established plants need a little help to survive. Using mulch will help by retaining water that is provided by you or mother nature.

Also, there is a difference between shade loving and shade tolerant plants. Some plants that grow well in full sun can tolerate shade, but they will be a bit thin and wispy and not blossom as much. If these plants are to survive, all of their other needs must be met to compensate for the lack of sun.

I will start with shade tolerant varieties. The one selection which, can in some cases, be considered a small tree, is hamamelis (witch hazel). Shrubs include buxus (boxwood), taxus (yew), aronia (chokeberry), and diervilla (bush honeysuckle). Hydrangea quercifolia (oakleaf hydrangea) are surprisingly drought tolerant once established, and of all the shrubs mentioned will tolerate the shade best as they are considered shade loving.

Shade tolerant perennials include campanula (bellflower), hemerocallis (daylily, especially stella d’oro), digitalis (foxglove), geranium sanguineum (cranesbill), liriope (lilyturf), euphorbia (spurge), and phlox subulata (creeping phlox).

You may have better luck with these shade loving varieties. Hosta (plantain lily), ajuga (bugleweed), pachysandra (spurge), vinca (myrtle or periwinkle), tiarella and huecherella (foamflower), hellebore (lenten rose), brunnera (bugloss), lamium (dead nettle), athyrium niponicum (painted fern), and bergenia (pigsqeak).

It may be difficult to plant a shady dry area, but if you put the time in to make sure the plants will be healthy and establish a good root system, I think you’ll do fine. It’s not the biggest plant list, and may not cover every possible candidate. Hopefully you don’t also have deer around making the list even smaller (as well as your hostas).

Designers need to consider many factors when choosing plant material. Evergreen, herbaceous, deciduous? Foliage or flower color, bloom time, preferred growing conditions and so on. One of the most important considerations is plant habit and "ultimate size".

What does "ultimate size" mean?

• Complete in natural development or growth.
• A tree or plant that has reached a desired size or age for its intended use.

Like the old saying goes “Right plant, right place”. Planning and research is vital when evaluating ultimate size to avoid future problems. In addition to knowing how large a given plant may grow, you also should factor in the growth RATE. Dwarf plants aren't always that small at maturity but if it takes them 50 years to get there is that really going to be an issue? On the other hand, popular plants like Colorado Spruce or Weeping Cherry tend to outgrow their siting in a decade or two.

Research is important, and not just on the habit and size of the plant but also the root system, which is often overlooked. For example, don’t plant a Willow tree over a septic tank. Yes, someone I will call ...John Doe... did this to get back at his landlord. Now that might be an example of someone who knew what “ultimate size” would do with the wrong intentions but, planning is everything.

Is it going next to the house? Sidewalk? Driveway? Near power lines? If it’s a row of pine, are you planting them too close to each other making them susceptible to needle diseases in the future? Will the property owner be able to shimmy past the planting bed to get to the building entrance a few years from now? These are just a few examples of what to consider when choosing the right plant.

Above image courtesy of the Arbor Day Foundation (www.arborday.org)

Last year while attending a business webinar I heard a story that really stuck with me. Frank Mariani from Chicago’s North Shore was talking about the early days of his landscape company and some of the challenges that he'd faced.

His client, from an exclusive community of high-end homes, asked him for a quote to plant two trees in the back of the house near the pool. The 75 year-old client wanted shade while watching the grandkids. Frank wrote up a quote for two 2.5” shade trees, explaining that the fence and stairs around the pool prevented the installation of anything larger.

Two weeks later, when he showed up for the weekly maintenance, he was appalled to see one of his competitors at the house using a very large crane to place 8” caliper trees in the requested spots - by lifting them OVER the house! When Frank asked the homeowner why, the response was simple. “You said you couldn’t, and we found someone who could. The money wasn’t an issue. We wanted the shade now.”

That lesson stuck with Frank. Years later his company was presented with a similar situation. Access only allowed for a 3” tree. Frank, thinking back, told his salesperson to quote in two ways. One, quote 3” trees ball-carted to the desired location. Second, quote 10” trees placed via HELICOPTER CRANE. Of course, the price difference was astronomical. But the client decided he had more money than time and Mariani Landscape placed 10” shade trees via helicopter crane, creating a happy customer and a profitable job.

This story made me think about the odd things that we have had requested of OUR company. Now, we have never had to "helicopter" a tree into place. But we have arranged deliveries to Mackinaw Island - picture a semi-truck on a barge with the waves washing over the bow and under the truck. Or the time we sent send a semi-load of material to Minot, North Dakota. If it is important to the client, money is secondary to the action.

Just last night my wife was flying home from a much needed vacation. Then at 2 AM the last leg of her flight was canceled. There I was, searching flights on my iPad to get my exhausted wife home. Price meant very little to me. Getting her home with the least amount of headache added to an already stressful trip was the most important thing.

Knowing your clients is part of what you do every day. Make sure you use this to your advantage. You never know when your biggest challenge may also become your biggest success, leading to one of your most successful marketing pieces.

Of all the questions I get about growing hosta the most common one is: which varieties will take sun - and how much sun is too much sun? Many shaded areas get SOME sun and choosing the right varieties for the conditions will be the difference between success and...

Maybe we won't talk about that.

All hostas prefer to have morning sun and maybe some late afternoon sun. It is that midday sun that is the challenge. Sun tolerance, is to some degree, leaf-color related.

Most hosta with whitish variegation will burn in hot afternoon sun. Those that have more green to chartreuse variegation will handle some of that midday sun as long as they are getting plenty of water. You should avoid putting blue hosta in the sun as the blue color is a waxy coating on the leaf and will melt off, turning your blue plants green. Golden hosta WANT sun. If they don’t get enough sunlight they will turn that sickly greenish-yellow chartreuse color. You know the one. Green hosta will typically take some midday sun, and I have found that the thicker the leaf the more sun they will take.

Do you have a shady area that merges into a more sunny area and looking for some continuity? Here is a list of sun-loving hostas to fill in the sunny areas. Remember, soil moisture is key to keeping the plants looking good.

Rhododendrons are considered among the more difficult plants to trim. Many sources of information about pruning Rhododendron come from the Southern and Western states. The usual complaint about Rhododendron is that they get too large. That is not a big problem in the Midwest.

"Disbudding" refers to two aspects of pruning Rhododendrons. The first is simply removing spent blossoms. I’ve heard arguments over the years that, unless removed, the old flowerbuds will inhibit production of new flowers. I found absolutely no reference to this in my research travels. Also, to me this makes no sense. Mother nature put those flowers there and she can take them off – the shrub will bloom again! The best reason to remove them is one of aesthetics.

The second aspect of disbudding is pruning a Rhododendron for shape, compactness, and size of planting area allowed. Most pruning recommendations include removing dead or damaged branches as well as removing branches along the ground. These danglers can be more easily affected by fungus and can be a highway for weevils.

Now for the tough part – pruning a Rhododendron for shape and size. In essence, any pruning one does is shortening the distance between growth years. You can prune the current year’s growth back by hand right after blooming when the new growth is sticky or by mid-June with pruners when new growth has hardened off a bit. Pruning deeper on bare wood does not usually give good results. That limb will often die back or result in new shoots that may be spindly. One aside is my own observation that some of the newer grafted Rhododendrons are producing growth buds on low, woody branches which may develop if apical branches are damaged or removed.

Rhododendrons also include PJM types and Azaleas - both evergreen (kaempferi) and deciduous (Exbury and Northern Lights series). Most of the pruning rules are the same, however, you can prune much deeper into secondary wood and even lightly shear with good results. Compactness for shape is encouraged but avoid the meatball-effect. Also, hard pruning can reduce respiration and recovery.

Pruning aside, the best results for Rhododendron will be had from good soil preparation (i.e. moist, well-drained conditions), the addition of organic matter, and application of acid fertilizers.

During your regular commute, have you noticed that some companies - like skilled trade contractors, construction companies, law firms, restaurants, or fellow Green Industry contractors - have an alpha-numeric pairing on their building, sign, or the sides of their trucks? It looks something like this: “EST 19xx”.

What's your reaction to this? Does it seem like bragging or boasting, is it a marketing tool, or just something neat to put on the truck Maybe all of these? I have another one: “pride”. Pride in having survived and prospered from that long-ago day when the doors first opened on that new business.

Starting a new business is difficult, VERY difficult. You’ve probably heard that most new businesses fail. Here’s a couple statistics from Fundera.com: 50% of new businesses fail to exist after their first 5 years, regardless of what industry they are in. If that isn’t bad enough, 70% of those surviving business fail by their 10th year.

Let’s get into some history questions. How many companies didn't survive the Great Recession of 2007-2009? How many companies are still around from the 1990’s, 80’s, or the 70’s? I’m going to go further: How about the 1950’s and 60’s when money was extra tight and convenient power equipment wasn’t as readily abundant and available? Further still: How many companies have been around since our parents were teenagers, or toddlers, or not born yet? How many companies have been around before World War II, World War I, or even at the turn of the 20th century?

When you see that sign that says “EST 19xx”, keep in mind you're seeing a company that's succeeded in staying in business, long term, for a reason. Companies see great employees come and go. Some companies go through different ownerships and continue to thrive. History has proven that over the last 100 years, with plenty of ups and downs, many companies have found ways to adapt to changes, demands, struggles, and rewards.

I view the Green Industry in Michigan as a large family. We’re all in the same place, we’re after somewhat similar goals, and we all have to adapt to the challenges of weather, economy, the labor market, and changing fashions in landscaping. Older companies can share their wisdom on what to expect on projects and how to maintain the balance of quality, productivity, and profitability. New companies can teach new technologies and techniques to further enhance or improve that balance to elders that feel that they need to break away from old processes and procedures.

So be proud of that “EST” date, whether it’s 1819 or 2019. And if it’s not on your truck or building yet, now may be the time to think it over. Be proud - you've earned it.

Most companies take an inventory of the equipment they may need to replace or purchase at the beginning of the year. It can be frustrating to have to spend money when none is coming in yet. Furthermore, you want something that is going to last. Yes, you can go to a big box store and buy inexpensive tools and equipment, but will they last? I firmly believe that you get what you pay for. There are times when I buy cheap knowing knowing a short life span will suit my needs. But when I need something tough and reliable, especially if my jobs revolve around that piece of equipment, I am willing to invest.

Here at Christensen’s, we know how important your tools are to you and your welfare, which is why we only carry professional grade quality products. Names like Felco, Truper, and AM Leonard. These products have been on the market for a very long time. This year we are pleased to introduce another great brand into our stores.

Halder is a German company that has been around for over 80 years. Their specialty is producing high quality striking and forestry tools. We will be stocking some of their Simplex mallets. What makes these mallets unique is that every part is replaceable! This tool has a cast steel housing with an integrated handle sleeve that offers a high resistance to handle breakage. The faces are interchangeable, offering you options with different degrees of hardness allowing you to quickly adapt for different materials. We offer five different faces, including the two that come with the handle. You'll also be able to replace the housing or handle if you manage to break it, which seems unlikely with this level of quality. But I welcome you to try!

This spring, stop in at Christensen’s Plant & Hardscape Centers and let us equip you with the tools and products you need to be successful. Your job is tough, your tools should be, too. Let us show you our professional grade tools that are made to last.

Boxwood blight is a fungal disease of boxwood that results in the defoliation and decline of boxwood plants. Once it’s in the landscape it is very costly and difficult to control with fungicides. The boxwood blight fungus has a short life cycle and infections can spread quickly between plants, especially under humid, warm and wet conditions that favor disease development.

The main way that this disease is spread is through the movement of infected plants, cuttings, and boxwood debris. The sticky fungus spores are also spread on contaminated tools and equipment, worker's clothes, and water. The spores are unlikely to travel long distances through the wind. All plants infected with the fungus should be destroyed, as the chance of further spreading the fungus is highly probable. Limiting the spread of this sticky fungus is very difficult and can only be accomplished by following good sanitation practices.

Boxwood blight has been found in Michigan. Because of this we will NOT accept any returns on boxwood once they have left the nursery. We will also ask that you do not bring any boxwood plants, leaf litter, or clippings into our nursery. We reserve the right to not load any vehicle that has boxwood or debris from outside of our nursery. Please do not bring in any samples of boxwood that you are trying to match - take several pictures of the plant you are trying to match and we will help the best we can.

Boxwood blight can look like many other issues that boxwood can have, such as leaf spot, winter burn, and other non-threatening fungal diseases. This means that:

The only way to confirm whether a plant has boxwood blight is to submit samples to a professional plant disease diagnostic lab.

You’ve just installed your plant material and now it’s time to decide which material to use to cover the soil. The two most common materials are mulch and stone. Aesthetic preferences aside, here are some pros and cons for each.

We’ll start with stone. Starting with the pros, stone does not break down and need replacing. Also, you have few issues with weeds initially due to the use of weed barrier fabric. One of the problems with stone is that it is much more expensive to install, though some would argue that the upfront costs are offset by the fact that it doesn’t have to be replaced annually.

The primary issues are maintenance. Though weed barrier is effective in the short term, eventually a layer of dust and plant material create a medium on top of the fabric that weeds can and will grow in. This can be mitigated somewhat by careful cleaning of the beds (the heavier the stone the better for cleaning), but eventually weeds will become a real problem.

Physically removing weeds is difficult. Chemical removal is an option, but then you still have to struggle to remove them once they’ve died. Also, stone does not benefit the landscape planting in any way, and though weed barrier fabric is designed to allow water to get through, if there is any kind of slope, more water will run off than soak in compared to not using it. Over time the fabric may degrade or show through, then you can have a real mess.

Also, stone in a sunny location can get uncomfortably hot for some plants. Adding or removing plants, as well as working on irrigation, becomes more difficult in a stone bed. For many though, the aesthetic value is worth any complications.

With mulch, I will start with the cons. It does have to be replaced as it breaks down. If you replace it yearly for aesthetic reasons, the old mulch might need to be removed to prevent a harmful build up. We've all seen towering cones of much piled against tree trunks, and it is not a good thing.

If you wait for it decompose sufficiently, removal of the old mulch may not be necessary. Mulch is also susceptible to more weed growth initially than stone, though the weeds are easier to remove physically. Mulch can become matted as the season progresses causing some water runoff, but a quick fluffing or cultivating of the mulch will break up mats to restore proper absorption. The best thing about mulch is its benefit to the plant material.

Mulch is good for water retention in the soil, provided there’s enough water to permeate the mulch in the first place. Mulch also provides a good environment for beneficial insects, fungi, and microbes in the soil. Some amount of nutrients are also made available to the plants as the mulch decomposes. Mulch also provides insulation for plant roots that is effective in hot and cold conditions.

It is a waste of money to use weed barrier fabric under mulch as you are defeating the purpose by immediately placing a medium in which weeds can grow on top of it.

Stone or mulch? The final decision I leave to you.

For those of you who don’t know, I have been a hairdresser for almost 35 years (...yes, I started VERY young). With the clientele I still maintain, spring is the time of year my customers want "a little more off the top". It's the time of year temperatures change and HUMIDITY can alter the decision of a new spring 'do. It’s kind of the same with my roses! 

Here at CPC, and for you and your customers, spring is the best time for cleaning up, shearing up, and shaping up your roses. After the snow is gone but before new leaves start to pop, it's the perfect time to give these beauties a bit of attention for top performance. While we are all looking forward to color and growth in our landscape, nothing holds court like a well-maintained rose bush.

Just as I cut off fried hair and split ends while styling my clients, when cleaning up roses I begin by removing last year's old leaves from on and around the plants. This reduces pests or disease carried over from last season. You'll want to cut back dead wood, broken or crossing branches, and anything smaller than a straw. It might seem like giving a pixie cut when you're going for long layers, but clearing out all this extra branching allows for better airflow - and airflow is key for keeping rose foliage healthy.  When trimming the remaining branches, cutting above outward facing buds directs the growth upward and outward for a more optimal vase-shaped form.

Knock Out® roses are considered a shrub rose and self-cleaning. However, they still benefit from a nice cleanup in the spring, especially after they've had a few years in the ground. I like to take them down to about 12-18". They are such vigorous growers that, if you don't show them who's boss, you'll find yourself with a plant much larger than you intended.

Climbing roses are a little different. They have main, upright branches and lateral ones. The main branches should be left alone as much as possible. If cut, the plant will focus it’s energy on recovering height before pushing out lateral growth, which is where you'll get flowers. When pruning lateral branching there is no worry where to cut around the buds, anywhere will encourage a push of new growth and those desirable flowers.

So have no fear when considering your spring maintenance program. Sharpen those tools and get pruning! Oh, and don't forget your gloves.