Barbecue chicken and ice-cold lemonade, cold beers and brats, chilled watermelon and grilled hamburgers. That was a small part of my menu for the fourth of July weekend. I most definitely took advantage of some choice weather and time off to relax and recharge. My outdoor toys and appliances however, had no rest. They had 8+ children and friends to keep refreshed, full and entertained. The hose had a good workout, too!

But after the cooking and entertainment have concluded, the cleaning must begin. And unlike cleaning the kids, I would not recommend using the hose to undertake this process. Here are some maintenance and cleaning tips to help keep your outdoor appliances looking new and clean. 

Grills Are Not Self-Cleaning

It’s easy to fall into the habit of just giving your grill grates a quick swipe with a wire brush before you toss on those steaks. While you won’t directly harm your grill by doing that, it is important to check its other components, specifically burners, valves, and hoses. If you have a gas grill, don’t ignore the burners. Use a stiff brush periodically to clear grease and gunk away from them, and as you cook, pay attention to the color of the flame. A healthy flame on a gas grill should be blue with a yellow tip—if your flames are all yellow, turn off the grill and disconnect the fuel tank so that you can check the fuel valve pressure. Lastly, look at any hoses, such as fuel lines, on the grill. Even if your outdoor kitchen isn’t directly exposed to the elements, it is still affected by temperature changes. Depending on the material, grill hoses can contract and expand in response to changing seasons, so give them a brief inspection to see if any of them have cracked or split and need to be replaced. 

Don’t Go Nuts Cleaning Outdoor Appliances 

Stainless steel appliances are extremely popular in outdoor kitchens, and for good reason. Not only does stainless steel look nice with the hardware typically used in outdoor spaces, but it is also resistant to rust and corrosion, making it ideal for outside use. Although stainless steel is a durable material, it isn’t indestructible. Don’t cut directly on a stainless-steel surface, only use a cutting board. Hot pots and pans as well as other metal, steel, or cast-iron items can cause staining and corrosion if they’re left on a stainless steel surface for too long, so find another resting place for them or use a heat resistant pad or cloth. A rinse with soapy water will be sufficient for cleaning a stainless steel surface, but make sure that you follow the grain of the metal and dry it completely. There’s no need to use chemical cleaners and stay away from steel wool pads; little bits of them can flake off and get imbedded in your stainless steel surface. While the actual surface won’t rust in that situation, the steel wool pieces will. 

Protect Your Outdoor Furniture 

While it may not be the first thing to come to mind when you think of outdoor kitchens, furniture plays an important part in rounding out your backyard sanctuary. If possible, try to keep your outdoor kitchen furniture out of rain and extreme weather by bringing it indoors. If that is not an option, try looking for vinyl covers that don’t touch the floor, which allows moisture to escape. You can clean vinyl, mesh, and fabric components with a mild, all-purpose cleaner. Avoid harsh bleach or ammonia-based cleaners, they are not necessary and can do more harm than good. As with your countertops, try to catch and wipe up spills as soon as possible. 

Check Your Fridge 

Did you know that there are 2 different ratings for outdoor refrigerators? The better option is an actual “Outdoor Rated” refrigerator. It differs from the “Standard Outdoor” by having 304 stainless steel material, greater insulation, an advanced compressor, and better ventilation. This will help when the outdoor temps start to climb in the 90’s. Keep your fridge full, even if it is just water bottles. This will help the fridge work less and keep your items colder. 

Your outdoor kitchen and fireplace area represents not only a financial investment, but also a commitment to time spent with family and friends. Taking a few minutes to maintain your outdoor kitchen, patio, and furniture will protect your investment and allow you to spend as much quality time as possible with your loved ones.  

Christensen’s has been around in one form or another for over 90 years. Focusing on the green industry, we’ve been growers, retailers, and now a complete wholesale landscape supplier. Last year you probably noticed our Plant Center was remodeled, this year is the Hardscape Center’s turn! The hardscape yard was added 11 years ago and is an ever-growing part of our company. During the off-season, we considered our floorplan, moved things around, and brought in some new displays. If you haven’t visited us yet, an entirely new layout will greet you as you walk in the door.

It drives me nuts when the grocery store rearranges, and I can’t find the things I need when shopping. However, we spent a lot of time deciding on the intuitive placement of products to help you shop as conveniently as possible. We feel that the new open layout flows naturally and will make your experience in our store more pleasant and efficient.

Our new lighting section includes counter space for fixture demo and a large area for putting together your order.

With the addition of BrickStik Polyurethane Adhesive, we have your vertically stacked endeavors covered. Joining SRW Solvent-Based Adhesive, SRW Rapid-Set Polyurethane Adhesive, and Structure Bond Construction Foam Adhesive, BrickStik is one more sticky solution for your installation tool kit… You can find them all together in our adhesive section.

Perhaps the most striking makeover is to our counter. It has moved to an entirely different area of the store, where our Hardscape staff will be ready to help you with your project. Behind the counter we are displaying our selection of Boar Hog and SRW concrete saw blades, as well as the wildly popular Grabo hand-held vacuum lifter.

Inside isn’t the only place we’ve updated. Outside you will find the fabrics and grids have moved from behind the bulk bins to in front of the Hardscape Center. Speaking of bulk bins… we are thrilled to announce the return of brown hardwood fines!

All the things that you’ve come to expect from the Hardscape Center are still here. And there are even more supplies to make your stop quick and easy. We love the changes… stop by and tell us what you think!

I love spring! The trees foliating and flowers blooming, the smell of fresh air in the house, planting the garden, and, of course, the boat rides. Last spring was nice, not hot too soon, no crazy two-foot snowstorms, but we did have a slight amount of extra rainfall. Slight being the understatement of the year, as we had over 2 months’ worth of rain in about a week! So, for a while last year I lived on 2 lakes, one my boat was on and the other in my back yard! Detroit and some neighboring cities were hit especially hard. A combination of old or faulty equipment, the inability of the infrastructure to process that amount of water, and I’m sure some design flaws and errors along the way.

Water is the most destructive force on the planet, and it doesn’t take much of it to do a whole lot of damage. Climate changes have been producing some of the most intense and destructive weather that we have ever seen, and there is no sign of this pattern changing. What once worked before may be inadequate for today’s needs. As many municipalities change their designs on the processing and reclamation of storm and runoff water, should you also change your designs on the landscaping end?

Unfortunately, we suffer every year from the effects of our freeze thaw cycle. The water underneath thaws and refreezes so many times that it creates voids by pushing everything around it away. When it thaws, those voids get refilled yet with more water and the process restarts. The problem is that the water has nowhere to go. You can’t stop the expansion, but you can give it a path to follow. One of the newer trends has been the use of clean fill aggregate as a base for driveways, patios, and even roads.

The biggest differences between the clean aggregates and the traditional is the removal of the finer particulates and a more consistently sized stone. The lack of the finer particulates does not take away from the strength and stability of the base, but it allows for water expansion without exerting outward pressure in a confined area. This also allows for excellent drainage, so no more puddles or ponds. Many municipalities have incorporated this type of base because of how effective it is in reducing icing and refreezing since the water drains as soon as it has thawed. And the best part is you do not have to use a permeable style paver to obtain the benefits of a permeable base. The cost to change from traditional to permeable is negligible, the installation is slightly different but easy to follow.

As great as this sounds, there are of course a few draw backs. Firstly, is finding the material. Permeable pavers and permeable materials are slowly becoming more popular, but you may find certain areas more challenging than others to find the supplies you need. You will have to retrain your crew for a new installation process which is not hard, but change can always be a challenge. Lastly, this base requires maintenance. If you think of the base as a sponge, when the top is covered and clogged it no longer absorbs as well. Depending on the area, the amount of traffic, and surrounding landscape, this may need some frequent attention or very minimal maintenance. So, keep in mind that a permeable based driveway might not be the best choice if you live off a dirt road. But if your sunny backyard patio is always underwater after a good rain, that might be helpful choice.

At Christensen’s Plant and Hardscape Centers, we stock a huge assortment of drainage components from companies like NDS. We also stock the clean aggregates for the Hardscapers out there, too. Stop in and see what we can help solve for you. I promise you; it will not put a drain on us!

This year has been one of the worst grade B late-night horror movies ever made! It is so bad that I would rather fast-forward and just watch the commercials. Thankfully, it’s almost over, but before we get to the credits I have a spoiler alert for what could be coming - a slip, slide or fall on the patio, steps, or driveway. Trust me when I say that the horror experience will only continue at the hospital. Here is some info so you can just fast-forward through those last few painful moments and hopefully save yourself from enduring a sequel in 2022.

What deicing chemicals do most concrete manufacturers suggest using?

There is a lot of conflicting information about this out there, so let me distill it for you. All of this stuff can cause corrosion so choose your product based on the temperature range you are expecting and use whatever you use sparingly. Least damaging and preferred in most situations is good old rock salt, sodium chloride (NaCl) which is most effective to about 15°F. Colder than that, use calcium chloride (CaCl2) which works down to -2°. It is slightly more corrosive. Products containing magnesium should be avoided.

Are there any recommendations for using deicing products?

Follow the directions listed on the bag! In addition, practice these simple recommendations:

• Clear the snow first before putting down product. There are no shortcuts here, sorry.
• Use sparingly to prevent damage to your concrete surfaces and planted beds.
• Sweep and remove any excess deicing product after the ice and snow melts.
• After the winter season, thoroughly wash the paver surface to remove any chemicals remaining.

Can other types of deicing products be used?

It is not recommend to use any other types of deicing chemicals. This includes:

• Magnesium chloride (MgCl2)
• Calcium magnesium acetate (CMA)
• Potassium chloride (KCl)
• Potassium acetate (KA)
• Fertilizers containing ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate.

The deicing product is not sodium chloride or calcium chloride, but the product label says it's safe for concrete. Can this product be used on concrete pavers?

It is not recommend using any products other than sodium chloride and calcium chloride. Research has found that some products are incorrectly listed as “safe” for concrete and do cause damage to concrete and concrete pavers.

Will sodium chloride and calcium chloride damage plant material?

Unfortunately, they can. Always use sparingly and try to prevent runoff of meltwater into landscape beds.

Other types of deicing chemicals have been used on ready mix concrete sidewalks without damaging the surface. Is this because concrete pavers are not as strong?

All concrete materials are susceptible to damage from deicing chemicals no matter how the concrete product is produced. It takes time for this type of damage to show. Concrete pavers are typically two to three times stronger in terms of pounds per square inch strength and have lower absorption rates than pour-in-place ready mix type concrete so are actually more resistant to damage. Proper application and cleanup of deicing products will go a long way in assuring the longevity of your concrete installations.

Call us at the Hardscape Center if you have any questions or concerns on what you should or shouldn’t use to help keep those patios, walkways and driveways looking great.

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Adhesives hold our world together - literally. Industrial products of all kinds require bonds of varying strength to perform their function, from the furniture in your living room to the parts that intricately connect and hold together the automobile in your driveway. Due to my numerous hobbies I have easily fifteen different varieties in my basement right now. Luckily in our industry, we do not need quite that many. So let's talk about the main two types of adhesive products that you can choose from to make walls and steps; solvent based or polyurethane based.

The first is solvent-based adhesive like our VOC compliant SRW. This style has been the longest in the market and is still highly used. It cures as the solvent evaporates, leaving the polymers. (Cons are toxic and flammable fumes in non-VOC compliant products.) The pros for this product are price and availability, an extremely long shelf life, and basic ease of use. There are a wide range of curing times which are affected by heat, humidity, and moisture. The product will also shrink due to the amount of evaporation during the curing process, which mostly isn't a factor in our industry.

The next type of adhesive is polyurethane-based, such as Brickstick. The curing process for this product uses air and moisture. Since there are no solvents, there is no shrinking or cracking while this product cures. It can also withstand higher temperatures like you would see in a fire pit or fireplace. Lastly, the speed at which this product cures is probably the most significant reason this type of adhesive is sought after. However, that speed can also be problematic if you need to move, shift, or rearrange something so plan accordingly. It is also harder to remove from hands or tools. The shelf life is under a year so pay attention to that when stocking up.

Both types of adhesives will perform well for most of your applications. They are both usable in rain or snow, so mother nature won't get in the way. Both are low-VOC compliant (volatile organic compound) so enclosed areas are no problem. Here at Christensen's we stock both types of adhesive, to have you covered in whichever choice you make. Ask one of our salesmen about the whats and whys so we can better help adhere to your needs and stick you with a great product.

The number one question we’ve been asked this year is: “Do you know when you will be getting (insert literally anything here) in?” This season has been one big game of "Go Fish", and I am lousy at fishing! The shortages have been across the board, with almost nothing unaffected. But what if I told you that you could play a key role in keeping something from running out? If that does not raise an eyebrow - what if I told you that you will get paid to do this?

You're not alone - the concrete vendors who produce pavers, wall units and steps are also facing shortages. They have plenty of aggregate and colorant, but what they are in dire need of are the empty pallets that your product was loaded on. You paid a deposit for that pallet, wouldn’t you like your money back? Instead of waiting until the end of the season when you have a gigantic pile of skids, bring them back as often as possible. Don’t risk the skids in your yard becoming damaged and unusable, weather worn, or magically vanishing. That is your money disappearing!

Concrete vendors need these pallets to be returned so they can be reused or refurbished. If they don’t have returned ones, they’ll buy new ones - and at the current prices of wood, vendors will be forced to raise their prices. Recover your cash by returning those skids, and don’t let your money evaporate by failing to return pallets in good condition.

Here is a list of things we at Christensen’s look for when you are returning brick skids to us: 

• Does it have all the boards on top, bottom, and in between? When boards are missing, the pallet can no longer effectively hold what could be up to 3500 pounds.
• Is the wood rotted? Do you see mold? If yes, that wood is no longer structurally viable, which in weakens the entire pallet. This is a huge safety concern.
• Is it a returnable skid? All our vendors have either spray painted or burned their name or logo on the side of the pallet. Brick pallets are specially constructed to support the weight of the product and are easily identifiable.
• Did you buy the product from us? We only accept pallets by the vendors and brands we carry, so if there are other brands mixed in, we will give them back to you.

Help us slow potential price increases by reducing the pallet shortage. Make sure all your employees are aware of the pallet deposit as well, so you do not have an accidental $500 bonfire! As always, feel free to call us with question or concerns, or if you want to try your luck at "Go Fish". But be warned, we have a very well stocked pond.

As a movie and TV enthusiast I often re-watch older episodes before enjoying the new season of a show or the next movie in a series. You know how you always see a few things that you didn’t remember from that first viewing? The same can be said about a company’s policies, practices, or procedures. Forgetting how to start a machine is just embarrassing but forgetting how to install or maintain something can be very costly. So, let’s go back a few episodes and review, to see if there is something that you may have missed or forgotten.

My favorite rerun episodes are about polymeric sweeping sands. There are many new and improved types of polymeric sand on the market, and I would count on there being more in the future. Some of the new features include being rain safe in so many minutes, dust free, haze free or allowing installation while the product is wet. All these features are great, but there are still some fundamentals that you need to remember. Here are some of the highlights:

• When you are applying and sweeping the sand into the joint, be careful not to overfill. In most cases you want to have the sand be 1/8^th of an inch from the top of the paver. Exceptions are cobbled types of pavers where you may want even less sand in the joint to bring out the cobbled appearance. You can always sweep out the excess when it’s still dry, that's a lot harder after it has been wetted or has set.

• Work in sections when applying the water. Even though many products have a single watering procedure, do not get carried away and water huge portions at a time. The watering process is the most essential step and adding too much or too little water because you lost track of where you did or did not cover could end in disaster.

• Speaking of watering, read the instructions fully and carefully. Did the brand you’re using change formulas or best installation practices? Have they added a feature that you were unaware of, or taken one out? Is this the right product for your application? You will not know if you do not read. If you have questions, always feel free to call the Hardscape Center for advice and guidance.

• Understand how your product will work on your site. Consider things like humidity, dew points and temperature. Is the project in the sun or the shade, is there irrigation near that may hinder the curing time? To fully cure, the product must completely dry after installation. If it does not dry, it will not cure. Uncured sand can wash out, swell up from excess water or have the polymers seep out and stain the pavers.

There are many more things to consider when applying polymeric jointing sand, but the above are the most common issues that I hear about. All the above can be prevented or addressed, and all are costly if forgotten about. Typically, the sand is the last part of the project and could be the hardest thing to fix. It never hurts to get a refresher on the installation of this essential step. If you have any questions or concerns do not hesitate to call. The next season is upon us, so grab some popcorn and take the time to review before you get lost by episode #2. Stay tuned for previews for the next show with limited commercial breaks!

There are so many options when adding lighting to your jobs - wash a wall with bullets, illuminate a path with tall hats, put ledge lights under the steps… but don't forget to look UP. Lighting draws one’s interest to noticing foliage, angles, and shadows. Fountains shimmer, boulders come alive, then one becomes entranced following the craggy trunk of a tree up into the branches.

Anyone can install outdoor lighting, but a truly captivating design that incorporates three dimensions is what's going to sell the project and have the neighbors asking for business cards.

Here’s how: Step back and look at the entire project area. Stand at the road or across it and observe the features of the home and landscape. You may want to note a few lines of sight to areas of focus such as porch pillars, dark corners, or structural trees. Also note the impact of existing light sources on the property and from neighboring homes or street lights. I like to take a screen shot from the satellite map on my phone to draw sight lines, then use the highlighter tool for light coverage areas, using different colors for existing and prospective.

After you have your general ideas plotted, move in closer. Where does the dog run and kids play? Where will people be sitting or cars be parked? Ask the customer how they plan to use the space. The more you are able to plan ahead, as with any job, the greater efficiency you'll have.

For seating areas, as fun as shadow charades may be, you don't want people irritated by a light in their eyes or to have a flood light-washed façade disrupted by a car parked close to the house. Most light fixtures stick up out of the ground, so placement is critical to avoid trip hazards. To highlight a tree trunk select a tight 10-15° beam spread. For more branches use a wider, more flood-like 30-40° pattern.

Bullet fixtures can target a specific object or be used farther away to illuminate a broader area. To really flood an area with light, a Sollos FRF058 or Alliance BL300 will do the trick. Pillars can have wall sconces like the WS200, and those confident to stray off of the instruction sheet can even mount a fixture up in a tree! Ask someone in our Hardscape building how to put a "tree loop" in your wiring so the installation will last as the tree grows.

Other options include lower profile well lights and in-ground fixtures, hanging fixtures, even rolls of tape lights. Check out Alliance's new line of color changing bluetooth fixtures for a customizable show-stopping display! With these new lights, a homeowner can change color for each season and show off to their friends as they slid their thumb around on their phone, changing the lights on a whim.

The possibilities are as endless as your imagination. Search online for inspirational photos and videos or ask the sales team at Christensen's, "What can I do that's different?" In landscaping, our projects can keep us looking down at our work, but please, don't lose sight of what's UP!

There is an amazing Mexican restaurant by my house that I love, especially since they have a nice outdoor patio with tables. I sit down, and wait for the waiter to come take my order. While I wait, I shift my weight from one side to the other, trying to find the spot where the chair doesn’t wobble. Then the waiter brings my beverage, and while managing my chair I now have to contend with the table that keeps moving back and forth. Then the meal shows up, and by now it looks like I’m having convulsions! It’s one of my pet peeves, and I wind up putting a piece of napkin under the chair, the table, or both to keep me less annoyed. Now you know why I ask for extra napkins!

All napkins aside, outdoor patios and living areas are amazing spaces to enjoy more time outdoors. Some things to consider however, might be what you want to do in these spaces. Many styles of tables and chairs need flat surfaces to be stable and secure. Beyond the wobble, cobbled surfaces may be harder to clean or show dirt and stains more prominently. The high peaks in a cobble style paver may also wear faster and show signs of aging more quickly than the lower parts. Aesthetically, the textured product looks great, but its functionality may suffer.

Many paver manufacturers have a similar product line with smooth finishes. They offer the same large format size and similar colors, but with table and chair-friendly surfaces. Some of the color blending can make them appear to have texture. The smooth surfaces will be much easier to have stable tables and chairs, but also help with planters and outdoor rugs and mats. Smooth surfaces are also easier on your feet, so when you have a slow roast BBQ or chicken that takes some time to cook, your feet will thank you.

From a design aspect, the smooth texture can also give you a much larger array of banding and bordering options. Having some texture in a soldier or sailor course will add some extra pop next to a flat surface. From an installation aspect, the smooth is easier to install sweeping sands and apply sealers. The products install the same, so there is no need for extra training. These products offer more possibilities without hindrances. I call that a win-win!

What is the least expensive tool you own? Maybe a pair of safety glasses or gloves? Think even cheaper, like “free” cheap. This tool is as useful as MacGyver with two sticks of chewing gum and a paperclip! More knowledgeable than Google, but just as easy to use. Everyone has at the very least one, but most have several just lying around, waiting to be used. They want to be used, it gives them purpose and meaning. On occasion, I have even had them beg to be used! Does your hammer do that?

This free tool is: factory territory representatives! Most of our suppliers have them, and they want you to use them. The rep’s job is not necessarily to sell you their products, but also to help you with tips, ideas, suggestions and a wealth of other great information. They can advise you on different, possibly better ways to advertise, bid, plan and order for your project.

Your territory rep can be found dropping off samples to contractors and dealers, troubleshooting challenging installs, and advising on new or better techniques. Their office is their vehicle, always moving from job site to job site. They are there to help when problems arise and to praise when projects have exceeded expectations. New and growing companies can benefit from their experience as most reps were once like you.

During the off season they are busy planning extensive training sessions and informational seminars. Some of the seminars are designed to help you improve the way you bid jobs, streamline the designing process or showcase new and upcoming products. They are in constant communication with the factories, getting input as well as giving feedback. They want you to be successful with their prospective products, and you as the contractor play a vital role in that. Your likes and dislikes, everything from the color blending to thickness variances all mean something to them.

So now that I have shown you how good these tools are and how much they can help, take the next step and call. Ask the smallest or silliest of questions, don’t be afraid to get their hands dirty. Channel all of their experience into what challenges you. Let us here at Christensen’s Hardscape Center help you get a good “rep”. The cost is only a call or text. If you don’t have those numbers, please contact me and I will make sure you get them.