Here at the Christensen’s, we get a lot of honeybees. One of our neighbors keeps several hives. The bees look at the Christensen’s yard as an all-you-can-eat buffet! We can be proud of that (until inventory day).

If you were to research planting to support honeybees, it would appear all information points to herbaceous perennials.

However, there is a long list of shrubs that will support honeybees (along with butterflies and hummingbirds).

Azaleas and Rhododendrons are great for early feeding! They also feed butterflies and hummingbirds.

Although insignificant to us, Berberis flowers are just the right size for bees and have lots of nectar. It is also the correct color for hummingbirds to feed. Barberry is home to a caterpillar that will eventually pupate hanging from underneath to become a moth for summer.

Caryopteris ‘Bluebeard’ is the right color and provides ample nectar and pollen. Pushy butterflies try to get the bees off these plants with hummingbirds sometimes entering the fray.

Clethra of any flavor is a bee, butterfly and Hummingbird magnet! The plant produces copious amounts of nectar and pollen. Clethra also flowers at a time when there isn’t much else available for the bees.

Rosa species and cultivars attract bees. However, the Drift® and Knock Outs® are not good pollinators. They have been bred for other things, losing most of their nectaries. Older varieties, like Rosa rugosa cultivars, are the best for bees and butterflies

Salix species are a favorite food of Queen Bumblebees. Typically, Salix are early bloomers, providing nectar and pollen when not much else has started to flower. They are also butterfly plants. “Viceroy and the “Cloak” Butterflies lay their eggs on Salix and the caterpillars feed on the leaves when they emerge.

I hate having to count Spiraea during the summertime inventory. When you count, you have to move every plant and hope its bees don’t get mad at you! Cultivars available today bloom all year, giving the bees and butterflies a solid food source.

Syringa vulgaris, really any Lilac will do. They are also food for butterflies, several of which use it as a caterpillar plant.

Any and all varieties of Viburnum are heavy nectar producers. If you plan correctly, you can have  Viburnums blooming all season. It is another plant that feeds not only bees and butterflies but also birds and mammals. 

In the world of landscape design, familiar favorites like maple, oak, and elm often dominate shade tree selections. However, one elegant native species remains consistently underused despite offering exceptional aesthetics, seasonal interest, and versatility: the yellowwood (Cladrastis kentukea). For landscape professionals seeking to diversify their plant palettes, while adding beauty and function, the yellowwood deserves a second look.

Yellowwood is a medium-sized deciduous tree, native to the southeastern United States, yet hardy in zones 4 to 8. It typically reaches 30 to 50 feet in height with a rounded crown that provides graceful, dappled shade. The name “yellowwood” comes from the tree’s inner heartwood, which is a rich yellow color, visible when the wood is cut.

Despite its many benefits, yellowwood remains curiously underutilized in both residential and commercial landscapes. This may be due to its relatively slow growth when young, or alack of awareness among nurseries and clients. Yet for landscapers willing to look beyond the usual suspects, yellowwood offers unique traits that can elevate any planting design.

Perhaps the most show-stopping feature of yellowwood is its late spring to early summer bloom. Every few years (typically every 2–3), mature trees produce breathtaking panicles of fragrant, wisteria-like white flowers that cascade up to 12–15 inches in length. The floral display rivals that of many ornamental trees, making yellowwood a seasonal focal point when in bloom.

While not guaranteed to flower heavily every year, the rarity and abundance of its blossoms when they do appear add a delightful element of surprise—perfect for clients who appreciate plants with character and a story.

Yellowwood offers multiple design and ecological benefits that make it an ideal candidate for a variety of landscape settings:

• Shade Tree Excellence: With a broad, rounded canopy and dense foliage, yellowwood provides excellent shade without the excessive size or messiness of some larger species. It’s ideal for patios, sidewalks, or lawn settings.
• Low Maintenance: Once established, yellowwood is relatively pest-resistant, drought-tolerant, and requires minimal pruning. It maintains a tidy form and has attractive smooth, gray bark that adds winter interest.
• Urban Friendly: Its non-aggressive root system and moderate size make it a good choice for urban or suburban environments, including street tree applications and compact yards.
• Pollinator Friendly: Its flowers are attractive to bees and other pollinators, supporting local biodiversity.

Yellowwood performs best in full sun with well-drained soil and benefits from some protection from strong winds due to its softer wood. It has a naturally vase-like to rounded form and can develop a strong central leader if pruned properly when young.

Because flowering can be infrequent, it’s wise to combine yellowwood with consistent bloomers or use it where its graceful form and fine-textured foliage can be appreciated regardless of bloom status.

The yellowwood tree remains one of the most underutilized gems in American landscapes. For landscapers looking to deliver both beauty and function with a native species, Cladrastis kentukea offers a unique blend of elegance, seasonal drama, and practical utility. Whether used as a focal point or integrated into a broader shade canopy, yellowwood can bring both character and cooling relief to your next landscape design.

While the little ones may enjoy playing in a mud puddle, excess water on a property can be damaging.

A French Drain is a simple, yet effective, solution for managing excess surface water and groundwater around a home.  If your customer is facing issues with water pooling, or soggy areas in their yard, installing a French Drain can help redirect water away from problem areas.

For a modern and efficient approach, a great option is using the NDS Flo-Well system.  Keep reading for a step-by-step guide.

Materials Needed (all are available at Christensen's)

• NDS Flow-Well
• Flo-Well Drain Inlet
• 4" Tri Wall Pipe or 4" Perforated Pipe
• EZ Flow Mesh Pipe
• Gravel (clean, coarse)
• Landscape Fabric
• Pulaski Axe
• Shovel
• Trenching spade
• Level
• Tape measure

Planning Your Drainage System

Before you begin digging, plan the layout of your French Drain. Identify the areas where water accumulates and determine where you want to redirect it.  The Flo-Well should be installed at the low point of your drainage system to collect and disperse water effectively.

Adding Gravel

Cover the perforated pipe with gravel. Fill the trench with gravel up to about 2-4 inches from the surface. The gravel should be clean and coarse to facilitate good drainage. As you add gravel, gently compact it to ensure it settles evenly around the pipe.

Placing the Flo-Well

At the end of the trench, where you want the water to disperse, place the NDS Flo-Well. The Flo-Well is a modular, underground stormwater management system designed to collect and infiltrate water efficiently. The Flo-Well has 3 sides: each side has 4 locations where the drain pipe can be connected. Position the Flo-Well accordingly to connect to the drain pipe, ensuring it is level and securely placed in the gravel-filled trench.

Wrap and Cover

Fold the landscape fabric over the top of the gravel. This will keep soil from entering the gravel and clogging the system. You can now back fill with EZ Flow Mesh Pipe. Finally, backfill and cover the remaining area with soil and grass or other landscaping material to blend the French Drain with the yard.

Test the System

After installation, test the system by running water through it to ensure it flows properly into the Flo-Well and that there are no areas where water pools or backs up.

By following these steps, you can effectively manage water runoff around your customer's property and prevent potential damage caused by excess moisture. The NDS Flo-Well system provides a durable and efficient system for managing stormwater, ensuring that the landscape remains healthy and dry.

Oak trees are known around the world for their impressive strength, longevity, and significant ecological roles. These trees can live for hundreds of years, growing into massive, sprawling structures with thick trunks and wide canopies. Their deep roots anchor them firmly into the ground, making them incredibly resilient to strong winds and storms. The “mighty” oak has earned its reputation and is a great shade tree for any landscape.

The strong wood of the oak tree is dense and hard, historically prized for building ships, furniture, and structures that needed to withstand time and the elements. Oak trees also support vast networks of life. A single mature oak can host hundreds of species of insects, birds, fungi, and mammals, acting as a cornerstone of woodland ecosystems. Their combination of physical strength and ecological importance has led to cultural reverence as well.

There are many varieties of oak making it a versatile tree that can be used in different ways in your landscape:

The Bur Oak (Quercus macrocarpa) is a large, broad-canopied tree that can reach heights of 70–100 feet, with a massive trunk and thick, deeply furrowed bark. Its leaves are large and have a somewhat irregular shape. They are highly adaptable, drought-resistant, and tolerant of poor soils and extreme temperatures, making it suitable for more arid and open areas. Its broad canopy also offers excellent shade.

The Pin Oak (Quercus palustris) is more pyramidal in shape, typically growing 60–70 feet tall with a straighter trunk and a more symmetrical form. Its leaves are smaller and more sharply lobed, with deep sinuses and pointed tips. The branches of pin oak are characteristically horizontal to drooping on lower limbs, contributing to its distinctive silhouette. Pin oak is a popular ornamental tree due to its symmetrical form and rapid growth.

The Columnar English Oak (Quercus robur ‘Fastigiata’), is a cultivated variety of the native English oak, prized for its narrow, vertical growth habit. Unlike the broad, spreading canopy of the standard English oak, this cultivar exhibits a tightly upright form, making it ideal for landscapes where space is limited or where a strong vertical element is desired. Typically reaching 50 to 60 feet in height with a spread of only 10 to 15 feet, the Columnar English Oak is well-suited to urban settings, avenues, or formal gardens. This tree is hardy and adaptable, thriving in full sun and tolerating a range of soil conditions. However, like other oaks, it can be susceptible to powdery mildew in damp conditions.

The “Mighty Oak” has been a vital tree culturally, ecologically, and in landscaping for hundreds, even thousands of years and it will be for years to come.

Christensen’s has all these varieties of oak available. Contact your salesperson, or stop through the yard to pick the one that’s right for your project.

You may have heard of the rise in popularity of native perennials, making you wonder, “Why should I plant them?”. Well, there are many reasons! 

Native plants are beneficial to our environment. Not only do they provide habitats and food for insects and animals, but they create a healthier place for us and our communities. Native perennials are excellent pollinators and will fill your garden with beautiful flowers, attracting butterflies, hummingbirds, and more! They are also beneficial because they help reduce noise and carbon pollution! Finally, natives require less water due to being adapted to their native environment, saving you money and time!

One of my favorite Michigan natives is Asclepias tuberosa (Butterflyweed). This plant is beautiful in all seasons. The star of the show is its stunning orange flowers that bloom mid-summer. Fall interest continues with unique seed pods! Not only is this plant beautiful, but it is also food for Monarch Caterpillars. By planting Asclepias Tuberosa, you can rest easy, knowing that you are helping preserve one of the most beautiful, and vulnerable, butterflies in North America. Stop by the perennial lot and check out our Asclepias tuberosa. Look closely and you might see the stunning Monarch caterpillar yourself!

Last, but not least, are the Echinacea purpurea (Purple Coneflower). This plant is native to prairies, meadows and woods, making it a very diverse and easy to grow Coneflower. Its bushy foliage and purple flowers provide interest all summer long. Once the flowers are spent, if not dead headed, they will last well into winter, allowing Finches and other birds to munch on their seeds. Fun Fact: Echinacea comes from the Greek word ‘Echinos’, meaning Hedgehog or sea urchin, describing the flowers’ spiky look. Can you see the similarity to the hedgehog in your email?

(Note: Although we do carry many Michigan native plants at Christensen’s there are many more that can be special ordered! Don’t hesitate to inquire about natives and we will do our best to get you what you need!)

Choosing a spreading Juniper can be a daunting task. There are so many to choose from and so many factors to consider. Height, width, color, and overall look varies between each variety. There are several varieties that are considered spreading but can end up being taller than some upright evergreen shrubs! So, how do you choose the right spreading Juniper for your customer’s landscape? While that task can be easier said than done, here are a few tips that may help point you in the right direction!

Juniperus conferta ‘Blue Pacific’

Blue Pacific Juniper is a great option when you are looking for something similar to a ground cover. It stays very low to the ground, only getting to be about 1 foot tall, and will spread to be about 6 feet wide. It enjoys full sun, making it a perfect option for open hillsides and sun gardens. Blue Pacific Juniper has blue-green foliage that will surely add interest to any landscape. Or, if you are looking for a similar plant, but in yellow, take a look at Golden Pacific Juniper. It grows the same, but has bright yellow-green foliage instead.

Juniperus virginiana ‘Grey Owl’

Grey Owl Juniper is another great option to consider when deciding between varieties. It will get a little bit taller, growing to be about 3 feet tall and 6 feet wide. It has a unique gray-green color to its foliage. Because it can withstand full sun, it’s a great option for landscapes with minimal shade.

Juniperus chinensis ‘Sea Green’

Sea Green Juniper is known for its vibrant green color all year long. At full maturity, Sea Greens can reach up to 6’ tall and 8’ wide, making it taller than most spreading junipers. Like the others, it enjoys full sun. Because Sea Greens tend to grow faster than other junipers, they are a perfect choice if you want the new landscape to fill in quickly!

Those are just a few of the options to consider.  If those aren’t quite the Juniper you were looking for, visit the Christensen’s plant yard to view what we have in stock.  Your sales person can also advise you on what can be ordered.

Why Tarping Bulk Material Matters

Keeping your load secure isn't just about safety.

It's the law! (MCL - Section 257.720)

Spring is here, and with it comes a fresh start to another busy season of designing and building beautiful outdoor spaces. As the ground thaws and job sites come back to life, let’s get back to the basics—the foundation of every great paver patio.

That foundation begins with limestone aggregate.

Limestone has been a fundamental building material for centuries, prized for its durability and versatility. The limestone we use today took hundreds of millions of years to form. Once part of an ancient tropical sea, limestone is composed largely of calcium carbonate from marine organisms like corals and shellfish. Over time, layers of these skeletal remains compacted into the dense, sedimentary rock we rely on today.

Remarkably, many limestone aggregates still bear the imprints of their ancient origins—fossilized remnants of prehistoric marine life are frequently visible within the stone, offering tangible connections to Earth's distant past long before humans first learned to craft with stone.

Thornton Quarry: A Massive Source of Limestone

Thornton Quarry, located just south of Chicago, is one of the largest limestone quarries in the world. Spanning 1.5 miles long, a half-mile wide, and reaching depths of 450 feet. The site has been in operation since the 1800s. It supplies crushed limestone for road construction, concrete production, and hardscape base material. The quarry is also notable for its role in flood control, as part of the Chicago Deep Tunnel project. The northern section of the quarry has been repurposed as a reservoir capable of holding nearly 8 billion gallons of stormwater, helping prevent urban flooding. With its vast limestone reserves and dual role in infrastructure and environmental management, Thornton Quarry is both an industrial powerhouse and a critical component of regional water management.

From Quarry to Job Site: The Journey of Limestone Aggregate

The extraction and processing of limestone is a monumental industrial endeavor that combines raw power with precision engineering. Modern quarrying operations employ specialized excavators and blasting techniques to dislodge massive sections of limestone from exposed bedrock formations. These colossal fragments—sometimes weighing several tons each—are transported via heavy-duty articulated dump trucks capable of hauling 100-400 tons per load to primary crushing facilities.

The transformation from raw stone to construction-grade aggregate involves a sophisticated multi-stage crushing process. Initial jaw crushers reduce limestone boulders to manageable sizes, followed by cone or impact crushers that further refine the material. A complex network of vibrating screens—some spanning hundreds of feet across processing facilities—carefully sorts the crushed stone into precisely-calibrated size gradations. Quality control measures throughout this meticulous journey ensure the final product has consistent compaction rates, optimal angularity for interlocking strength, and appropriate levels of limestone fines for each specific application.

Christensen’s stocks a variety of limestone aggregates tailored for hardscape applications, including:

• 21AA Limestone – A mix of fines and larger crushed stone, designed for high compaction. Ideal for structural base layers beneath pavers, driveways, and retaining walls, ensuring long-term stability and load-bearing strength.
• 6A Limestone – A clean, angular stone ideal for drainage applications, backfill behind retaining walls, and permeable base layers. Its uniform size reduces compaction, allowing for efficient water movement and preventing hydrostatic pressure buildup.
• #8 Limestone – A smaller-sized aggregate often used as a bedding layer for pavers and slabs, providing excellent leveling properties and enhanced interlock to keep installations secure. Like 6A, #8 is washed clean, and suitable for permeable applications

The Science Behind the Perfect Base

Every professional in the hardscape industry knows that a patio or retaining wall is only as good as its foundation. Compaction is key—without proper density in the base layer, settling, heaving, and shifting will occur over time, leading to costly repairs and dissatisfied clients.

When compacted correctly, 21AA limestone forms a dense, load-bearing surface capable of withstanding repeated freeze-thaw cycles and heavy use. For applications requiring superior drainage, 6A limestone prevents water from becoming trapped behind walls or under slabs, reducing the risk of erosion or frost heave. Using the right combination of materials not only extends the life of an installation but also improves overall performance, making projects more resilient to the elements.

Limestone in the Bigger Picture

Limestone isn’t just vital to hardscaping—it plays a role in nearly every aspect of construction and infrastructure. It’s a key ingredient in concrete, asphalt, and even soil stabilization. Some forms of crushed limestone are used in agricultural applications to balance soil pH, while others serve as filtration media in water treatment plants. The same stone that forms the base of your patios and walkways is also helping to build highways, airports, and bridges across the country.

As we kick off another season, let’s start from the ground up—literally!
Investing time in selecting the right base material and ensuring proper installation techniques will pay off in the long run. If you have questions about which limestone aggregate is best for your next project, stop by and let’s talk stone.

Here’s to a successful season, built on a solid foundation!

Every year as we start to bring in fresh trees in the fall we hear requests for any and every kind of tree. Unfortunately for us, the cold winters here don’t allow for just any tree to be dug and replanted in the fall. It is a great time to plant trees that have previously been dug and given time to recover in our yard. However, it can be dangerous to dig certain trees late in the year depending on the growth habits of the species and other environmental factors. There are many trees we try our best to avoid digging in the fall to protect ourselves and our customers from finding dead trees in the spring when everything else is nice and green.

Most trees go into dormancy in the fall, entering a state where metabolic processes slow down so they can survive the winter. Digging trees in early spring while they are still dormant minimizes the stress caused by cutting its roots and transplanting it. The root system is preserved more effectively, allowing the tree to recover quickly once replanted. As it warms up in spring, they break dormancy and start putting on new growth which is ideal timing for reestablishing the root system after being dug. Trees dug in spring also have the advantage of cooler but warming temperatures and higher moisture. This combination reduces how much water the tree is losing and provides ideal conditions for recovery. Most species acclimate to their new surroundings better when dug in the spring. This is why we bring in thousands of trees in the spring and hold them year-round. It gives the trees a chance to recover until you need them and minimizes the risk of transplant shock or failure to make sure your newly installed landscape looks good and will last.

Some trees are better suited for fall digging and can reestablish roots before winter. Most species of Amelanchier, Crabapple, Ginkgo, Linden, Lilac, and Maple do well with fall digging and some even seem to do better, avoiding transplant shock. These trees will still develop roots in the cooler months after being dug. With the ground still warm but air temperatures cooling, growth can continue even as the tree's leaves drop. This late growth enables the tree to adjust and recover before winter, preparing the tree to absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil as soon as the weather warms up in spring. During spring, the tree’s energy is directed towards new growth and root development, instead of recovery, which can result in stronger and more vigorous plants. This can enhance the overall health of the tree, making it more resilient to inclement weather, diseases, and pests. In contrast, spring digging can lead to transplant shock, as trees may struggle to adjust and recover while also trying to grow new leaves.

In conclusion, digging and replanting trees is a practice grounded in ecological and botanical science. The combination of biological factors such as dormancy cycles and growth rates with environmental factors like soil conditions and moisture determine the optimal time for digging. By timing the transplanting process correctly, one can set the stage for healthy, vibrant trees that will thrive in their new environments for years to come. So, if you see a tree with some old deteriorating burlap in the fall don’t be too quick to write it off. That tree is not “old”, it was intentionally dug in the spring according to the best botanical practices and held all year just waiting to be planted. It has survived the stress of digging and is primed for replanting, more resilient and ready to thrive in its new environment.

At the risk of sounding lazy, (this is my second article arguing for less work on behalf of pollinators) I’d like to encourage you to talk to your customers about a modified fall cleanup.  Now, before you tell me that fall clean-up is a healthy revenue stream for you, hear me out…

Environmentalism used to be considered a passing fad, merely a trend that would swing in the opposite direction given enough time.  However, as the years have progressed, environmental consciousness has grown into a common practice among many of the younger generations.  While the Boomer generation tends to be split, each generation following tends to have a higher awareness and commitment to the environment. Therefore, a sound business strategy includes incorporating environmentally friendly practices into your business plan as a long-term growth strategy to keep your clientele from aging out of your services.

So now that I’ve argued the business sense around this strategy, let me give you the environmental impact of leaving the leaves:

Many pollinators and other beneficial insects overwinter in or below organic debris. Leaving a layer can help bees, butterflies, moths, spiders, fireflies, worms, and so many more utilize this kind of protection. And, all of these primary consumers provide needed sustenance to secondary, tertiary, and, down the line, apex consumers. Habitat preservation through leaving the leaves plays into the whole food chain in your small area of the world.

And lest you think that you have to leave them where they fall, raking them into designated areas is perfectly acceptable. Utilizing them as mulch in flower beds or around trees & shrubs can suppress weeds and infuse the soil with helpful nutrients for the next year.

The other environmental impact that we see from this idea is the reduction of tons of yard debris being dumped into landfills.  In the yards, the leaves have more access to oxygen to decompose aerobically without releasing excessive amounts of methane.

Of course, this whole argument is for naught, if the homeowners association or city insists on leaf cleanup. However, “leaving the leaves” has been a movement for decades.  As it continues to garner attention and interest, it may become the norm even in city ordinances and HOAs alike.  

I’ve made sure to research this article with some online sources that you can check out for yourself if you want to learn more about “Leaving the Leaves”…

https://www.usda.gov/media/blog/2022/10/17/fall-leave-leaves
https://www.nwf.org/Magazines/National-Wildlife/2015/OctNov/Gardening/Leave-the-Leaves
https://www.webstergrovesmo.gov/708/Leave-the-Leaves
https://mdc.mo.gov/magazines/conservationist/1995-10/autumn-leaves-myth-reality
https://xerces.org/leave-the-leaves?blm_aid=1217656837