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Can You Dig It?

Every year as we start to bring in fresh trees in the fall we hear requests for any and every kind of tree. Unfortunately for us, the cold winters here don’t allow for just any tree to be dug and replanted in the fall. It is a great time to plant trees that have previously been dug and given time to recover in our yard. However, it can be dangerous to dig certain trees late in the year depending on the growth habits of the species and other environmental factors. There are many trees we try our best to avoid digging in the fall to protect ourselves and our customers from finding dead trees in the spring when everything else is nice and green.

Most trees go into dormancy in the fall, entering a state where metabolic processes slow down so they can survive the winter. Digging trees in early spring while they are still dormant minimizes the stress caused by cutting its roots and transplanting it. The root system is preserved more effectively, allowing the tree to recover quickly once replanted. As it warms up in spring, they break dormancy and start putting on new growth which is ideal timing for reestablishing the root system after being dug. Trees dug in spring also have the advantage of cooler but warming temperatures and higher moisture. This combination reduces how much water the tree is losing and provides ideal conditions for recovery. Most species acclimate to their new surroundings better when dug in the spring. This is why we bring in thousands of trees in the spring and hold them year-round. It gives the trees a chance to recover until you need them and minimizes the risk of transplant shock or failure to make sure your newly installed landscape looks good and will last.

Some trees are better suited for fall digging and can reestablish roots before winter. Most species of Amelanchier, Crabapple, Ginkgo, Linden, Lilac, and Maple do well with fall digging and some even seem to do better, avoiding transplant shock. These trees will still develop roots in the cooler months after being dug. With the ground still warm but air temperatures cooling, growth can continue even as the tree's leaves drop. This late growth enables the tree to adjust and recover before winter, preparing the tree to absorb moisture and nutrients from the soil as soon as the weather warms up in spring. During spring, the tree’s energy is directed towards new growth and root development, instead of recovery, which can result in stronger and more vigorous plants. This can enhance the overall health of the tree, making it more resilient to inclement weather, diseases, and pests. In contrast, spring digging can lead to transplant shock, as trees may struggle to adjust and recover while also trying to grow new leaves.

In conclusion, digging and replanting trees is a practice grounded in ecological and botanical science. The combination of biological factors such as dormancy cycles and growth rates with environmental factors like soil conditions and moisture determine the optimal time for digging. By timing the transplanting process correctly, one can set the stage for healthy, vibrant trees that will thrive in their new environments for years to come. So, if you see a tree with some old deteriorating burlap in the fall don’t be too quick to write it off. That tree is not “old”, it was intentionally dug in the spring according to the best botanical practices and held all year just waiting to be planted. It has survived the stress of digging and is primed for replanting, more resilient and ready to thrive in its new environment.

Jacob Haines By Line

Leave the Leaves!

At the risk of sounding lazy, (this is my second article arguing for less work on behalf of pollinators) I’d like to encourage you to talk to your customers about a modified fall cleanup.  Now, before you tell me that fall clean-up is a healthy revenue stream for you, hear me out…

Environmentalism used to be considered a passing fad, merely a trend that would swing in the opposite direction given enough time.  However, as the years have progressed, environmental consciousness has grown into a common practice among many of the younger generations.  While the Boomer generation tends to be split, each generation following tends to have a higher awareness and commitment to the environment. Therefore, a sound business strategy includes incorporating environmentally friendly practices into your business plan as a long-term growth strategy to keep your clientele from aging out of your services.

So now that I’ve argued the business sense around this strategy, let me give you the environmental impact of leaving the leaves:

Many pollinators and other beneficial insects overwinter in or below organic debris. Leaving a layer can help bees, butterflies, moths, spiders, fireflies, worms, and so many more utilize this kind of protection. And, all of these primary consumers provide needed sustenance to secondary, tertiary, and, down the line, apex consumers. Habitat preservation through leaving the leaves plays into the whole food chain in your small area of the world.

And lest you think that you have to leave them where they fall, raking them into designated areas is perfectly acceptable. Utilizing them as mulch in flower beds or around trees & shrubs can suppress weeds and infuse the soil with helpful nutrients for the next year.

The other environmental impact that we see from this idea is the reduction of tons of yard debris being dumped into landfills.  In the yards, the leaves have more access to oxygen to decompose aerobically without releasing excessive amounts of methane.

Of course, this whole argument is for naught, if the homeowners association or city insists on leaf cleanup. However, “leaving the leaves” has been a movement for decades.  As it continues to garner attention and interest, it may become the norm even in city ordinances and HOAs alike.  

I’ve made sure to research this article with some online sources that you can check out for yourself if you want to learn more about “Leaving the Leaves”…

https://www.usda.gov/media/blog/2022/10/17/fall-leave-leaves
https://www.nwf.org/Magazines/National-Wildlife/2015/OctNov/Gardening/Leave-the-Leaves
https://www.webstergrovesmo.gov/708/Leave-the-Leaves
https://mdc.mo.gov/magazines/conservationist/1995-10/autumn-leaves-myth-reality
https://xerces.org/leave-the-leaves?blm_aid=1217656837

Marci McIntosh

Fall in the Perennial Garden

Traditional fall perennials like Sedum, Anemone, Mums, Asters, and Rudbeckia are coming into their own! It's the time of year for a refresh into the new season.

However, there are some other fall flowers you may also want to consider. Let us take a look at the staples in the fall garden and then we can get on with some cool stuff!

Belgian Mums

Mums

Grown for us by a single nursery, they are not just any “Mums” but Belgian mums. Does it make a difference? Yes. Belgian “mums” have much stronger and, more importantly, pliable plant stems. Meaning they do not break when you look at them wrong. They also produce a uniform crown. Don’t forget that all mums are an important fall crop for bees and butterflies.

Red Cabbage Brassica

Ornamental Cabbage & Pansies

Both are waiting for cooler temps before they will show up. Pansies are very cold hardy. We’ve even had potted pansies flowering in January. Cabbage will freeze just like it is and sit like that all winter. Cabbage is an annual whereas the Pansies are semi-perennial – it all depends on how they fill and what the winter is like.

Ornamental Peppers Capsicum

Ornamental Peppers

These have become all the rage. If you have not seen them, they’re worth checking out. They are literally small peppers that come in a multitude of colors.

Swiss Chard

We are going to have some this year – YEAH!! Hopefully, you can get some of them before we buy them all!! This is an ornamental Swiss Chard (yes, you can buy Swiss Chard and Cabbage at the supermarket, but they are just plain old green!) Ornamental Swiss Chard has stems in all shades of red and green with dark green leaves that are thickly veined in white. Very catchy!

Fall Anemone

There are a couple of plants and a few bulbous Anemones that bloom in the spring. However, all the cool hybrids are fall flowering. A couple of our favorites are ‘September Charm (2-3’ tall with pink flowers) and ‘Sweetly’ (from the ‘Fall in Love’ series, these grow 2-3’ tall with dark rose-colored flowers).

Purple Dome Aster

Aster

There are a multitude of Asters. Actually, there were so many, and they seemed so different that now we no longer use the word Aster, the new genus word (for some of them) is Symphotrichum. This is where you will find the “Fall Asters”. All of them will come in about 12-24” and there are numerous colors available. We are rather choosy here and try to pick asters that will maintain themselves. Many of the older cultivars need a trim in early summer to keep them compact. (A friend once told me to mow them down with the lawnmower on the 4th of July. It is advice that I’ve never tried and don’t necessarily recommend, but it certainly gives a strong visual.) We try to only offer cultivars that don’t need that kind of maintenance.

Kickin' Sapphire Aster

The one everyone loves “Purple Dome” with the purple-blue flowers is one that needs a little trim, but the color is very distinctive. We like the ‘Wood’s’ series. They come in several colors and top out around 12” tall and are compact and uniform. We have also been selling the ‘Kickin’ series which is a new set of cultivars, again numerous colors, reaching about 15”. Aster as a group are a crucial butterfly nectar source in fall. You will find Painted Lady’s, Swallowtails, Sulphur’s, and Red Admiral fighting the bees for winter storage!

American Gold Rush Rudbeckia

Rudbeckia

We will say that because we’re on a butterfly tangent these will supply nectar for Silvery Checkerspot and bees. There are some new ones on the market we have been trialing. They are worth checking out for fall. Some are hardy, others are supposed to be hardy. It will probably depend on the severity of the winter. Time will tell.

‘American Gold Rush’ possesses the traditional Rudbeckia daisy-shaped flowers except they are small but way more numerous. These are hardy and have proven themselves. The plants will reach 2-2.5’ and start blooming in late summer and all the way through fall.

There are numerous hybrids of Rudbeckia hirta and Rudbeckia fulgida, and these are the ones who may not be quite as perennial as hoped! However, even as an annual they are worth it for the fall show!

Denver Daisy Rudbeckia

Denver Daisy Rudbeckia

‘Denver Daisy’ is one of our favorite Rudbeckia. It has a yellow flower that has a mahogany center and a brown eye. The mahogany center is quite large and makes for a spectacular show in the fall. This one should definitely be treated as an annual.

‘Prairie Sun’ has 5” golden yellow petals tipped a lighter yellow. These are a hirta variety and should be treated as an annual. ‘Prairie Sun’ will reach 3-3.5’ tall.

‘Gloriosa Daisy’ are annuals coming in at 24-30”. They are yellow with either a red or an orange edge that start blooming in August.

Little Goldstar Rudbeckia

And, from the same breeding as ‘Goldstrum’, comes ‘Little Goldstar’. We have been carrying this one for a while now and it is a fab little plant. Only 15” tall and covered with traditional flowers from mid-summer to fall.

Neon Sedum

Sedum

I saved this for the last of the common fall flowers. Everyone seems to think Autumn Joy is it! It’s not. (Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’ has the orangish-red flower and stands about 2’ tall.) Check out some of these others for fall flash!

‘Brilliant’ and ‘Neon’ have magenta to reddish flower.

Plum Dazzled Sedum

‘Plum Dazzled’ Sedum has plum leaves with raspberry red flowers. ‘Dazzleberry’ has blue-gray foliage with red flowers. Both of these are part of the ‘Sunsparkler’ series. There are several others in the series all with different colored leaves. We like the ‘Sunsparklers’ because of their height – 1-1.5’ with flowers.

‘Mohave Jewels’ also has several varieties in this series with different colored foliage. My favorite is ‘Sapphire’ with purplish-blue leaves and rose colored flowers. (12-15” tall)

Now for the fun part – all the other stuff!!

Solidago

Why don’t you use this more often!?! There are several native species you see blooming along the roadside. There are, also, several species and cultivars available to use in landscapes. All of them get around 3-5’ and have a flashy golden spike on top of them. Some people say the color is hard to place. In the fall garden? Not buying it. Why Solidago? Well, Solidago is the #1 source of food for Honeybees in the fall. Honeybees collect large amounts of nectar for winter food. It is also a nectar source for Sulphur and Painted Lady butterflies.

Autumnale Salsa Helenium

Helennium

I call this my happy plant. It makes me smile even when I am just saying the word. The available colors are best describes as an autumn pallet; red, yellow, and orange. They have daisy-like flowers that point up to the sky, reaching 3-5’ tall and 3-5’ wide at maturity.

Heliopsis

H. annus is the traditional annual sunflower. H. helianthoides is the “False Sunflower”. Much smaller flowers but LOTS of them. Like their cousin, the annual sunflower, “False Sunflower” can get 3-5’ tall. There is a shorter one, ‘Tuscan Sun,’ coming in at about 2-2.5’. All flowers are golden sun colored. Heliopsis is unpalatable to deer and rabbits and is a pollinator for bees and butterflies.

Eupatorium

Eupatorium

There are several natives belonging to this family and only a few cultivars. Eupatorium are deer, rabbit, squirrel, etc. resistant. Eupatorium produces a sap that tastes bad, can be poisonous and exists thoughout the entire plant. (Pointsettia are a Eupatorium) Nothing is gonna take a bite of these and if they do there will not be a second bite! The native eupatorium can reach 5-6’ even up to 8’ – they can get huge. There are a few dwarf varieties that will only reach 3-4’. Try ‘Little Joe’ 2.5-3’, or ‘Baby Joe’ 2.5-3’. Eupatorium flowers are a dirty white to rose red. This plant is a POWER pollinator. Bees, Monarchs, Skippers, Swallowtails, and Sulphurs, numerous moth species, and Sparrows will eat the seeds. This one feeds everybody!

Before we let you go to enjoy Fall – do not forget your fall bulbs! As long as you’re planting, you might as well drop in some bulbs. They will not brighten up a fall display, but they will be worth it in the spring! You will not be sorry when they start to pop up as the weather warms up next year! And, by then your back will not hurt anymore from all this fall planting!  

Privacy – We Want It! How do we get it?

Imagine this… It’s a beautiful spring day and I’m wandering a backyard with a client to discuss their landscape needs and wants. The design will include many elements, not only plants, but hardscape, and structures as well as a fire pit and a water feature. They want it all and I’m ready to design the outdoor space that makes them excited to spend many wonderful days entertaining and relaxing.

As I look around, and imagine the discussed possibilities, I see that there will be areas that will be on full display to the backyard neighbors' door. Then, I see that the neighbors to the right have a yard full of kid toys, that while quite natural to see in a home with children, is not the view my client wants to see. Then, of course, the client whispers that they have not gotten along with the neighbor on the other side of their yard for years. The client would rather not have them looking into their space.

OK, maybe you don’t often run into all these scenarios on the same site, but it does happen. Privacy and creating intimate spaces is not something new, but we don’t have to address it in the same way every time we run into the need.

The old standard, “let's plant a row of arborvitae” is not the only solution and should not be the only consideration. While it may indeed be the best solution for a particular scenario, as a designer, its good to branch out and look at other possibilities.

Sometimes an Emerald Green Arb will not be a good fit. For example, if you have deer wandering around your space, these Arborvitae will likely be lunch for the deer, at least as far up as they can reach. There are other varieties of Arbs that will be less likely to be browsed by deer. Green Giant Arbs or Wintergreen Arbs are better solutions for deer areas if, indeed, you and/or your client want the row of Arbs.

You need to know your plants, as they all have different growth rates and height and width requirements. Then there are also considerations like utility lines over a fence line to consider. There is no worse thing than planting beautiful things only to have the utility company come through and chop it all in a very unattractive way.

If space allows, why not create something with more variety of plants giving winter screening, spring or summer flowers, fall color, and just more interest. As we have seen in previous years, a monoculture of plants, can also be a bad idea. If an insect, disease or fungus decides to go after whatever you’ve planted, the entire screening row of plants is wiped out.

Mix different plants and different focal points for a more interesting look and seasonal interest overall. Adding plants that flower in the spring, have wonderful fall color, include evergreen options and great interest during all the seasons makes a garden more enjoyable all year long. Of course, talking to the client to find out where it may be necessary to have year round coverage is a must. Perhaps, its important to the homeowner to have flowers during a specific time of the growing season, as they have a large picnic at that time every year. Maybe feeding the birds is important to them. All these things can and should be considered when selecting the plants for a natural screened area. Also consider plant growth habits so that you are providing the correct size and type of plants to accomplish the privacy. Sometimes an immediate need changes the plants as there just isn’t time to grow in the coverage. It’s also important not to over-plant as some plants' health and development will be compromised if crowded.

Plants are not the only options to consider. Beautiful screening options can be considered as well.

 Custom-built trellis for clematis or cut metal panels can help break up a plant row while still providing beautiful options for privacy. These panels are a particularly great idea when space is an issue. They take up very little yard space and still can be set to provide the blocking of areas. Trellis and metal panels can be mounted to give extra height where needed as well. Then plants can be installed under the area for added interest. These types of panels can also be installed on the side of a pergola or hanging from a roof over a patio.

Because it is not fencing, permitting is not usually needed for this type of installation, however, if you do too long an area, you could have issues. To avoid problems, contact the municipality in the area to see if there are questions about how many continuous panels are too many to be considered a strictly decorative installation that does not need permits.

When we design, there’s so much more than just picking out pretty plants. Professional landscape design needs to encompass all of the needs of the homeowner along with the physical limitations of the space. If you find yourself in need of designs, I’m here to help and can be reached at barowley02@gmail.com or 734-890-9386.

Beth Rowley - Author

The Art of Pruning Japanese Maples

Pruning is a powerful tool that can significantly impact how a tree grows and develops. Japanese Maple are elegant ornamental trees that can be delicate and require pruning to maintain an ideal shape. Pruning can alter growth patterns, improve structural development, and reallocate resources. It encourages vigorous, healthy new growth and contributes to the long-term well-being of the tree. However, it’s important to apply the right techniques and timing to ensure that the benefits are fully realized and that the tree continues to thrive.

Bloodgood

When a tree is pruned, the tree promotes new growth in the area. When the tips of branches are removed it stimulates the growth of lateral buds. As a result, new shoots and eventually branches emerge, leading to a fuller canopy. Japanese maples come in various shapes and sizes, so understanding the variety you have can help you imagine how new growth will emerge before you start pruning. The main varieties either have an upright growth pattern (Bloodgood, Emperor I) or a weeping/cascading growth pattern (Crimson Queen, Tamukeyama). Recognizing these growth habits will help determine where you will need to cut to achieve the shape and fullness that you want.

For upright types, keep a central leader and an open, balanced canopy. For weeping types, focus on guiding the branches to enhance the cascading effect while removing any competing branches that have grown out of shape. Ensure you cut back to a lateral branch or bud to maintain the natural growth pattern.

Shaping a Japanese Maple is not the only benefit of pruning, it is also important for the health of the tree. Before shaping, pruning should begin by removing any branches that are obviously dead, discolored, or diseased. This prevents the spread of disease and encourages healthy growth. 

Tamukeyama

Viridis

Any crossing or rubbing branches should also be taken care of as they can cause wounds and damage the bark. One of the crossing branches should be pruned to prevent future issues. An issue more common in weeping/cascading Japanese Maples is older branches in the inner canopy that are too crowded. These branches can hinder airflow and light penetration or may become dead and diseased. Removing these helps maintain the tree's structure and health. By removing old growth and dead wood, you not only reduce the risk of infection but also improve the tree’s ability to allocate resources to new, healthy growth.

Timing can also be important when pruning a Japanese Maple. Pruning during the dormant season in late winter or early spring will stimulate new growth when the tree comes out of dormancy. This timing minimizes stress on the tree and allows you to see its structure more clearly without the distraction of dense foliage. Pruning during the growing season will also promote and redirect growth but may also stress the tree if done excessively. Over-pruning can lead to excessive removal of foliage that will reduce the resources available for healing and new growth. Prune lightly and gradually, and step back to assess the tree’s shape. Japanese maples are slow-growing, so patience is essential. Regular, light maintenance is better than infrequent, heavy pruning. Avoid heavy pruning in late summer or fall, as this can stimulate new growth that may not harden off before winter. Fertilizing immediately after pruning should also be avoided, as this can encourage excessive growth that the tree might not sustain.

Crimson Queen

Japanese Maples can be a significant investment for your clients and providing pruning maintenance to them can be a way to set your business apart. Just be sure you are prepared for the task, with knowledge, and with sharp shears!

Jacob Haines By Line

Sorting Out Sweetbay Magnolia

MagnoliaVirginiana Sweetbay Magnolia

Sweetbay magnolia (Magnolia virginiana) is a native tree species found primarily in the southeastern United States. It is renowned for its graceful form, fragrant flowers, and glossy green foliage, making it a beloved choice for gardens throughout its range.

Sweetbay magnolia is a medium-sized tree that averages heights of 10-35 feet, depending on growing conditions and variety. Its narrow, oval-shaped leaves are dark green on top and silver-gray underneath, creating a striking contrast when rustled by the breeze. In late spring to early summer, the tree produces creamy white, lemon-scented flowers that stand out against the foliage. These are followed by cone-like fruits that attract birds and wildlife.

Magnolia virginiana - Sweetbay Magnolia

In addition to its horticultural appeal, Sweetbay Magnolia holds cultural significance for indigenous peoples, who traditionally used parts of the tree for medicinal and ceremonial purposes. 

Sweetbay magnolia thrives in moist, acidic soils and partial shade but can adapt to a range of conditions, including clay and loamy soils. Its association with waterways has earned it the nickname "Swamp Magnolia."

A versatile tree that can be used in various landscaping applications, it works well as a specimen tree, providing year-round interest with its foliage, flowers, and fruit. Its moderate size makes it suitable for both small and large gardens, where it can serve as a focal point or backdrop. Additionally, it can be planted near water features or in rain gardens, where its affinity for moisture is an asset.

Sweetbay is often overlooked in favor of its popular cousin, the southern magnolia.  But, as the name implies, the southern magnolia can be affected by the mercurial Michigan weather.  You could miss a whole season of blooms if the conditions are not right.  But the Sweetbay avoids this with a later bloom.

In conclusion, Sweetbay magnolia is an enchanting plant that deserves a place in any garden or landscape design. So why not consider adding one of these captivating trees to your plantings and experience their unique charm firsthand?

David Dermyer

If You Can’t Beat ‘Em, Substitute ‘Em!

With Boxwood still in limbo I thought I would give a refresher on some plant substitutions that have been flyin’ out the door as a replacement.

I would have to start with Ilex glabras – seriously! I would have considered these an underused plant, but their time has come to step out in the world! “Inkberries” are hardy to a zone 4, not too bothered by wet feet, and can take part shade. They are not as deer-resistant as boxwood but are on the ‘least browsed’ list. Ilex glabra do not like our alkaline soils and to look their best with an acidic fertilizer applied. (Our alkaline soils are why they get yellow.) They are also salt tolerant. Straight Ilex glabra gets rather leggy and is known to sucker. However, the newer cultivars are an improvement in both leafing all the way down and less suckering (…they say no suckers but… I don’t always believe what they say.)

  • Ilex glabra ‘Shamrock’ is 3-5’ x 3-5’ with upright branching.
  • I.g. ‘Compacta’ is 3-4’ x 3-4’ with an oval-rounded shape.
  • I.g. ‘Densa’ is very uniform in shape.

There are 3 new ones from Proven Winners. They are bred to have better disease resistance as well as leaves all the way to the ground.

  • I.g. ‘Strongobx’  is 2-3’ x 2’ with large leaves. The habit is kinda of a donut… squat and round.
  • I.g. ‘Gembox’ 2-3’ x 2-3’ with petite leaves and a globe habit. (‘Strongbox’ and ‘Gembox’ are both females.)
  • I.g. ‘Squeezebox’ is male with an upright, dense habit at 4-6’ x 2-3’

Fun fact of the day: Why are they called “Inkberry”? Civil War soldiers used the sap as ink to write letters home.

Even “Mugos” have seen a resurgence. Pinus mugo prefers full sun but is light-shade tolerant. Of all the evergreens it is the one that gets the least winter burn. They will tolerate our heavier soil but prefer something a little sandier. Pinus mugo is also deer-resistant and tolerates salt. Nothing new and fab but some tried and true ones are available…

  • Pinus mugo ‘Compacta’ is a dwarf cultivar reaching about 3-4’.
  • P. mugo var mugo gets 4-6’ x 4-8’, but is still considered a dwarf.
  • P. mugo var pumilio is a dense somewhat prostrate form with branching heading upwards for a slightly different look. It is still considered a dwarf but reaches 4-5’ tall and 6-10’ wide.
  • I am expecting to have some P.m. ‘Sherwood Compact’. They are very dense with leaves that have a slight twist to them. ‘Sherwood Compact’ will get to be about 3-4’ x 3-4’.
  • I am also hoping to get in some Pinus strobus ‘Sea Urchin’, a 2-3’ dwarf with blue-green needles and a tight globe habit.

Globe shaped Thuja occidentalis have been moving up the popularity ladder for the last several years. The Globe “Arbs” have some newer well-behaved cultivars (not that the older cultivars are not well-behaved!!). Thujas will take our alkaline soil as well as wet soils. They prefer full sun but will take part shade.

  • T.o. ’Golden Globe’ is very dense and a 2-4’ dwarf with soft yellow coloration.
  • T.o. ‘Firechief’ Do you remember ‘Rheingold’?? ‘Fire chief’ is a mutation of a ‘Rheingold’. It has a better orange-red coloration and gets 4’ x 4’.
  • T.o. ‘Linesville’ or ‘Mr. Bowling Ball’. ‘Mr. Bowling Ball’, also known as ‘Linesville’, is a dense 2-3’ x 2-3’ globe with blue-green foliage that is soft to the touch.
  • T.o. ‘Hetz Midget’ is a slow cultivar eventually reaching 3-4’ x 4-5’. The foliage is blue-green.
  • T.o. ‘Little Giant’ is another slow-growing cultivar with dense dark green foliage.
  • T.o. ‘Woodward’. They get big! They grow to 4-10’ x 8-15’ eventually. Landscape size will be on the smaller end, because these are very slow growers (reaching 4-5 x 8’ in 10yrs.) They have dark green needles.
  • T.o. ‘Anna’s Magic Ball’ As per the Proven Winners website these are nifty! (I like that word.) I agree, a nifty little plant 2-3’ x 3-4’ with bright yellow foliage.
  • T.o. ‘Danica’ I know this one is the love of everyone’s life, but it is incredibly difficult to find! I grab everyone I can! ‘Danicas’ only get to about 2’ x 2’ with dense emerald green foliage.

There is one more “Globe Arb” to mention. T.o ‘Aurea’ (group). They are kind of a mishmash of yellowish foliage globe arbs. They usually only reach about 2-3’ x 2-3’

I hope I’ve given you enough alternatives to think about.  If that’s not enough, there are a few other options – Mirobiota, Myrica, “Chamy’s” or even “Barberry”. Maybe I’ll delve into those suggestions in a future article.  But for now, check out the above varieties.

Until next time!

Kim Roth Byline

Finding a Rare Gem – Heptacodium

Gardening enthusiasts are always on the lookout for unique and visually striking additions to their landscapes. And many homeowners love to be the ‘Joneses’ rather than keep up with them. An inimitable tree that stands out for its beauty and distinctive characteristics is Heptacodium.

Heptacodium miconioides (also known by the original species name, jasminoides and commonly known as Seven Son Flower) is native to China. First introduced to the West by the plant explorer E. H. Wilson in 1907, it would be mostly forgotten until the 1980s when additional seeds and cuttings were brought to the Arnold Arboretum. Most modern Heptacodium in North America can be traced to this shipment. Considered to be rare in the wild, this tree has been gaining popularity in gardens worldwide due to its elegant appearance and unique blooming habits.

The Heptacodium is a deciduous shrub or small tree that typically grows relatively quickly up to 15-20 feet in height, though it can sometimes reach 25 feet under optimal conditions. Its most notable feature is its exfoliating bark, which peels away in thin, papery layers to reveal shades of tan, gray, and brown, adding interest to the winter landscape. In late summer to early fall, clusters of fragrant, creamy white flowers bloom atop the branches, attracting bees and butterflies. These blooms give way to small, purple fruit that persists into late fall. Despite attracting pollinators, it is deer-resistant. 

In addition to its ornamental value, Heptacodium holds cultural significance in its native China, where it is often planted near temples and sacred sites. The number seven is considered auspicious in Chinese culture, hence the name "Seven Son Flower."

Heptacodium is adaptable to a variety of soil types but prefers well-drained soil and full sun to partial shade. It is relatively low-maintenance once established and has good drought tolerance. And while it takes to the Midwest environment well (zones 5-9), it is a non-invasive species.

Despite its relative obscurity, but due to its manageable size and attractive features, Heptacodium is well-suited for use as a specimen tree, focal point, or backdrop in gardens and landscapes. It also makes a lovely addition to mixed borders, where its late-season blooms can complement other flowering plants.

The Seven Son Flower is an excellent special-order option from Christensen’s. While it is gaining in popularity, we do not stock this variety (yet). However, we are happy to bring in what you need, just ask!

David Dermyer

It’s Peony Month… YEAH!

Paeonia Peony ITOH Bartzella

You may ask, 'Why?' or perhaps “Do I need a Hallmark card?" No cards are required. And, ‘Why?’, Well, because peonies are about to bloom! Which peonies? – ALL the PRETTY PEONY!!

I have written a lot of articles in my life, but I do not usually jump up and say me, me, me please, pick me. But an article about PEONIES?!? – Yes, please. They have always been my favorite. The flower is massive, and the fragrance is sweet (it is also one of the few smelly plants that does not give me an instant allergy headache!). I cut them and enjoy them inside by the bucketful. I may end up with a few ants indoors – but who cares, it’s worth it for peony flowers! And, well, they are just ants.

We grow our own peonies at the nursery, and they are quite impressive! (...If I may say so myself.) The production crew pots them up in the fall and they typically root out before dormancy. In the spring, they POP! We not only grow peony, but we grow several types of peonies.

You all are used to the common herbaceous peony (Peony lactiflora). Usually about 2.5’ and they can easily get to 3’ across. The varieties we carry are typically double-flowering cultivars. However, there are a few we offer that are single. I like single ones but prefer – as will most of your customers - the double flowering cultivars. There is no doubt the doubles put on a show.

Felix Supreme Peony

Sarah Bernhardt Peony

Some of my favorite double flowering cultivars are not only old cultivars but they are still some of the best (they are also reasonably priced, they aren’t “fancy pants” peonies, you know, ones that will cost you your first child!). ‘Sarah Bernhardt’ (double pink), ‘Duchess De Nemours’ (double pink), Felix Supreme (double red). The list goes on. There are at least 6 cultivars in stock, and I know one of them is ‘Krinkled White’ (single white flower). Herbaceous peonies will go downhill by mid-summer and the leaves look quite ratty. When placing an herbaceous peony make sure it can be seen in all its glory through May and then maybe something like a rose to cover them up for the rest of the year.

Bartzella Itoh Peony

But the production crew does not stop there. No, they have added Itoh Peonies to their production list. A totally different animal than an herbaceous Peony. Itoh’s are a cross between an herbaceous peony and a “Tree Peony” (they are known as “Intersectional” Peony – in case you were wondering). Why would you ever want that – well Itoh’s form a semi-woody stem that is able to hold up the huge flower (both come from the “Tree” Peony (Peony sufferticosa), and it also has and produces herbaceous stems – so if it dies to ground no problem. I have several at home. I do not cut them back until spring and then only to the buds on the woody stems. Every year they get bigger and bigger as new herbaceous stems join the 'club'. Believe it or not, they look more and more fab every time I see them. The easiest to come by is 'Bartzella'. It has a semi-double to double yellow flower that can be 6-8” in diameter. ‘Morning Light’ has a semi-double fuchsia flower. On the upside the plant flowers for longer period as side shoots will also flower and the colors cannot be found in P. lactiflora. (there aren’t even semi vigorous yellows in herbaceous Peony.) The foliage is very clean and lasts all year and when it blooms it is covered with flowers not only on the top but also on the sides. The only thumbs down I would give the Itoh cultivars is like a “Tree” peony the flowers are not cuttable. Vase life is only hours!

I can’t let you go just yet because although I no longer have much to do with perennials and even less on production I know a secret. There are – are you ready for this – “Tree Peonies” in stock. Yeppers. True “Tree” peonies are a rare find. They are incredibly hardy with massive flowers held up by woody stems. The group we have is an “assorted” color collection. But it doesn’t really matter because they are, well, not only Peonies but they are “Tree” Peonies and……. IT IS PEONY MONTH – YEAH! 

Krinkled White Peony

A couple of other quick notes about peonies… They can live 100+ years (all peonies can!). They THRIVE in the cold. If you want to see some spectacular ones, go to Alaska! There are 11 different flower types – from single to lotus, hundred proliferate, golden circle to bombs! They like well-drained soil and if you feel like it, throw some fertilizer on them after flowering and in the fall (you can do it in the summer also). Surprisingly, unlike most plants that put on such a huge, spectacular flower they need little in supplemental feeding. I do not feed mine but occasionally I dump some compost or peat around them (depending on whether I am feeling generous!). 

All peonies prefer full sun. From experience, I can tell you my herbaceous peonies are not flowering as well since the tree started giving them shade – I will be moving them this year. My Itoh peony gets AM sun till about noon then they are in shade – not dark but shade from a massive Maple tree. Doesn’t bother them a bit. They always have tons of huge flowers. Tree Peony require full sun and never get cut back – Tree peonies are a woody plant.

Rachel Peony

Kim Roth Byline

Navigating the Boxwood Market Amidst Quarantine Regulations

As we enter our second season under the box tree moth quarantine, it’s time for an update on the restrictions. The short version is this…

The majority of our customer base CAN once again PURCHASE Boxwood from Christensen’s Plant Center.

If you need more details, keep reading…

In April of 2023, the quarantine of all Boxwood (Buxus) only included Lenawee and Washtenaw counties with some portions of Monroe and Jackson.  In July, it expanded to 10 counties; as of December 2023, 12 counties are included in the quarantine.

We are able to supply boxwood to all of the quarantine zone.  If you are planting in one of these counties: Clinton, St. Clair, Eaton, Ingham, Livingston, Oakland, Macomb, Jackson, Washtenaw, Wayne, Lenawee, or Monroe, you can stop into the Plant Center and purchase your Boxwood from Christensen’s. All we need from contractors is the installation address. We take care of the rest of the compliance.

If you are planting outside the 12-county quarantine area, you can still purchase from us, but they will need to be direct-shipped and some restrictions may apply. Talk to your Christensen’s representative about your options.

As a dedicated wholesaler of nursery stock catering exclusively to contractors, we know that the past year has been challenging for landscape professionals and business owners in our industry. The fluctuating zone has brought significant distortion to the market dynamics of this beloved shrub compelling many to seek boxwood alternatives.  While we do not wish to see the box tree moth spreading, the larger quarantine area does allow the business of boxwoods to return to a normal pace.  

We invite you to take advantage of the increased availability of boxwoods at Christensen’s. Our commitment to quality and compliance with state guidelines ensures that you receive healthy, robust plants for your landscaping projects.

For more information, Michigan State University has set up a website dedicated to the box tree moth. It includes articles and recommendations, along with contact information for experts on this subject.

Chris Nielson
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