Landscaping – Page 11 – Sticks & Stones

Fall Hazard tree lists explained

It’s fall; it’s planting season for trees and evergreens. This time of the year breathes new business, new opportunities, and new money into the landscape industry.

Spring tree supplies have been exhausted in many varieties. So only what is left, is grown in a pot, or can be dug in the fall will be available. Here’s the bad news. The list of tree varieties that can NOT be dug is very long!

Unlike the spring there is a shorter recovery time for trees as soil temperatures dip below 50 degrees. Root reestablishment and elongation cease. This is significant because a tree loses about 75 to 80 percent of its root mass when dug. One source stated that only 2 to 8 percent of the root survives harvesting. This is extremely significant for evergreens and for trees especially as caliper increases. It’s all about moisture! From the moment a tree is dug until it is planted and prepared for its first long winter, moisture is the most important factor.

Desiccation is a killer.

Factors that lead to desiccation or moisture loss are key to which trees are traditionally fall-dug and those that become part of the "fall hazard" lists:

1. Thin-barked Trees

Gleditsia (Honeylocust) is on most nurseries’ hazard lists. If you have handled locusts you know that you can damage its paper-thin bark without any effort (this is strike one for this Genus).

Acer rubrum (Red Maple) also has a thin bark but is regularly dug in the fall because of its very fibrous root system, but usually in smaller caliper. I have seen maples with serious tip dieback after harder winters and for calipers over 3”. Betula (Birch) as well has thin bark - and has at least two more strikes against it.

2. Harvest Time

Spring or fall trees are usually dormant or breaking dormancy when they are dug. We usually think of full dormancy occurring when a tree’s leaves fall off or as trees have set their buds for the next season. These don’t necessarily happen at the same time. We regularly have tree varieties such as Amelanchier, Acer, Malus (Crabapple), Ginkgo, and Tilia (Linden) fall-dug and shipped with some leaves attached but their buds for the new year are set.

Gleditsia are among the first trees to lose their leaves but this does not help (see below). Quercus (Oak) may set their buds but have leaves that hang on very late in the season and in some cases only release in the late winter or early spring. As such they are considered not to be fully dormant until it is too to dig them.

3. Coarse Roots

If you have never handled bare-root stock this may not mean much to you. Acer, Tilia, and Malus to start have very fibrous root systems and dig very well in the fall. Malus actually seem better with fall digging than spring. One assumes their root systems have begun to recover. Gledtisia (again) have few, large, and very coarse root systems.

Many nut-bearing trees such as Quercus have fewer, tap roots. These types of root systems offer little support to the whole tree for moisture. Many of the these tree types do not die but result in varying types of dieback or thinning. Gleditsia will have tip dieback as well as random branch death from the trunk. Quercus will often have severe branch dieback, resprouting only off the main trunk; a very unsightly recovery usually requiring replacement. Betula despite have a fairly fibrous root system has very shallow roots susceptible to drying out and supports a very heavy branch system. Top dieback and branch death usually occur; these trees will take several seasons to recover.

Trees such as Quercus and others can be dug if they have been spring root-pruned in preparation for a fall harvesting. Many nurseries are not that proactive.

Harvesting practices have changed and advanced through the years but the industry is cautious and conservative. Be aware of fall hazard lists. They may save you much grief and even more money. The good news is that the selection of pot-grown trees is increasing every season.

Christensen's Plant Center Fall Hazard list

Oh deer!

Whitetail deer are beautiful animals. It's surprising to see how successful they are in urban and suburban areas.

You'd better drive with caution, too, especially around dusk and dawn. And where there is one, there are usually others, so watch for deer number two or three to dart across the road. Car crashes are never good for anyone involved.

As nice as it is to see them up close, they come for one thing, to eat our landscapes. We have no one to blame but ourselves for invading their space.

So what can we do to protect our investment? Start by putting the gun down, your neighbor might complain about the holes in their garage.

There is a list of plants that are deer resistant in our new mobile app, but if you already have everything planted or can’t find the same look you want and need to plant those edible deer plants, there are products on the market you can apply to keep the deer out or limit the damage.

Christensen’s carries a couple of products that have been tested over the past 10+ years and have produced good results.

Deer Scram by Epic is a fine granular that is applied as a perimeter defense. This all natural, organic product is easy to use and does not have an offensive odor. The product will last 3-5 weeks before you need to reapply and it works year round. It has the added benefit of being a mild fertilizer.

Liquid Fence Deer & Rabbit Repellent is applied directly on the plants. It has an odor and taste the animals detest. This product will last 2-4 weeks depending on weather. The rain will dilute it quickly and it must be reapplied often.

Sometimes a physical barrier is required, so we also carry Deer Fence. It comes in a 7’ x 100’ roll and can be used to protect a large area.

How to install landscape lighting

Outdoor accent lighting is one of the simplest ways to boost a landscape project from good to GREAT. Whether you are working with an all-new design or enhancing an established landscape, adding low-voltage lighting has a lot going for it.

We carry quality fixtures in a range of finishes to complement any style. Don't overlook using lighting in hardscape projects, too. How about path lighting integrated right into a paver walk? From deck lights to well lights, path lights to wall washes - there is a lighting solution for pretty much any situation.

I've made a short video to show you just how easy it is to work with today's modern lighting products. Take a few minutes to watch - I think you'll be inspired to give outdoor lighting a place in your future designs.

A Hydrangea with fall color? You bet!

Landscapers, what flowering shrub has been exploding in popularity for the last few years, with new varieties hitting the market every few months? What's the plant that your customers request most often - and is versatile enough to use in many situations, is easy care, a reliable bloomer, and comes in different colors?

I'm betting you're thinking HYDRANGEA.

Hydrangea have been extremely popular in the past few seasons, and our biggest sellers are the ‘Endless Summer’ series, 'Annabelle', and ‘Limelight’. The primary focus on hydrangea has always been the showy flowers.

Depending on the variety, they can be pink, blue, white or even green. The pointed panicles of the PG types are dramatically attractive as they age.

Now, fall is just around the corner. It brings a change of season and a chance to enjoy another important landscape feature – fall leaf color, which hydrangea are not known for having.

One of the best flowering shrubs for fall color is the Oakleaf Hydrangea. They will have a stunning maroon to burgundy red fall color. Slow to turn in fall, color improves with each frost. Showy flowers and exfoliating bark make this a plant with year-round interest. The cultivars ‘Alice’ and ‘Ruby Slippers’ are some of our most popular varieties. The dwarf cultivars such as ‘Munchkin’ and ‘Pee Wee’ are slowly gaining in popularity too.

Consider adding Oakleaf Hydrangea to your next installation. They will provide important landscape interest all season long. By trying something different, your project will stand out from the others.

Brilliant options for fall color

Fall is in the air. Hard to believe, isn’t it? Where has the year gone? It is almost time to start planting your bulbs, raking the leaves and fall cleaning the beds. Today I want to talk about plants that we don’t typically think of as being for fall.

We regularly think of mums, aster, burning bush, and trees like Sugar and Red maple as plants we like for fall interest. Lesser known options might be 'Autumn Joy' sedum, Japanese Anemone, and 'Little Henry' Itea.

But let me tell you about some others! Solidago (Goldenrod) with it's bright yellow flowers, Fothergilla with it's burnt orange, red, and yellow leaves, and Chelone (Turtlehead) with it's pink turtle-head-shaped flowers.

Don't overlook Caryopteris - it's blue flowers begin late July and continue into September. This small shrub can be treated like a semi-woody perennial and benefits from cutting back low in the spring.

My all-time fall favorite is Amsonia hubrichtii (Bluestar) - the Perennial Plant of the year in 2011. The foliage turns bright gold and at 2.5’ in the back of the border it stands out like a mini-sun. Some turn red-orange, bronze, purplish and yellow, and all are spectacular.

Another favorite of is Helenium, which grows 2-3’ tall. Also known as Sneezeweed, they bloom in a mix of delicious fall colors - yellow, browns, and red. They typically start blooming in late August and continue well into October.

Mums are great, but there are a lot of options for extending color from summer into fall.

I would feel guilty if I didn’t at least mention Viburnums. They come in so many shapes and sizes and with different colored berries in the fall, how can you go wrong? But wait, there’s more... almost all of them get great fall leaf color. This massive genus of shrubs alone would allow you to have flowers from spring to late summer and then berries and fall color until the snow flies.

Well sorry, but gotta go. This article gave me a great idea for pumpkin carving and I want to go get some cider and donuts and draw it out on paper!

Planting in heavy soils

Heavy clay soils are one of the toughest environments to plant in, but there are no hard and fast rules to follow. Whether the planting site is irrigated or not, and how much irrigation it’s receiving is crucial information. Here is an example: Concolor Firs will often decline and die in a heavily irrigated clay soil. In a lightly irrigated setting they will do fine.

Many planting guides will tell you to excavate 2-3 times the root ball diameter and amend the soil with top soil and peat moss. This is a big mistake! When you do this in a heavy clay soil you create a large “bathtub”, which can fill up with water in a heavy rain and drown your trees and shrubs. Digging a hole just large enough to hold the root ball reduces the amount of water around the plant.

Planting a little or a lot high to grade, depending on how wet the soil is, can be a good defense strategy. Just use a well-draining topsoil to feather out from the top of the ball to the top of the surrounding soil.

This columnar oak was planted at a correct depth in a raised bed. See below for a closer view.

One of the biggest mistakes I see is planting trees above grade on the top of a berm. Trees subjected to this treatment will almost surely die! Any rain (other than an all-day soaker), runs right off the berm. In this case create a shallow basin and plant below grade to capture those quarter to half inch mini rains.

Alliums – your secret weapon for all season color

It’s always hard for me to think "fall bulbs" in August. It’s 90 degrees and our perennial lot is in full bloom. The thought of bulbs pushing through the cold, wet landscape of spring is exciting, however that payoff is so long off! Hmmm, so how to wrap my mind around summer blooms, fall plantings, and springtime? I came up with a “genius” idea. Alliums! Bulb Alliums, perennial Alliums. One family blending together for a full season of color, texture, and beauty.

So here’s the plan. Starting with our “Early Order Fall Bulb Program”, choose your Alliums.

Allium 'Purple Sensation' is deep violet, 'Azureum' is blue. Both range in height from 24”-36”.

The large 'Gigantium' and 'Globemaster' are both deep purple with a height of at least 3’ and 5”-8” flowers. All four are pest resistant and bloom May-June.

Then the perennial Alliums. As those showy blooms from the fall-planted Alliums die off, the summer Alliums take charge. Allium 'Summer Beauty' blooms mid-June-July with 1 1/2” lavender flowers and shiny dark green foliage. The rosy-purple 'Millennium' kicks in July-August with an average height of 15”-18”. August and September follows up with 'Blue Eddy', which has lavender-pink flowers, it is the shortest with a height of less than a foot. Although Alliums prefer full sun they will take light shade, and they are pest and deer resistant.

There are hundreds of varieties of Alliums. I have showcased seven, ranging from deep purple to lavender to blue. All in different heights and textures. For a soft palette you can add light yellows, pinks, and whites and for a strong, vivid, more contrasting look, choose reds and brighter yellows. But whatever your color choices you can’t go wrong with a plan that lasts all season.

Don’t forget your Bulb Tone! This is a great fertilizer to include when planting any bulb. For details on our Early Order Bulb program, click on the graphic above!

New landscape plants to try

Our industry introduces new plants every year, and it's hard to keep up with them. Here are a few recent cultivars that you may want to check out for your next landscape project.

First is the Proven Winners Aronia Low Scape® Mound chokeberry. Aronia has been receiving a lot of interest lately as it is a native plant, and this one is nice because it only gets to about 24" and grows in a neat mound. Its white flowers bloom in late spring, and it also gives you a beautiful fall color. This plant is also quite deer resistant.

Second is the Golden Pacific™ juniper. This evergreen gives a bright burst of yellow throughout the year.

The texture is different from most junipers, being bold yet low-growing. It's a great plant to use for color without relying on flowering plants, and a nice change of pace from typical green ground cover.

There is also a blue-green variety called 'Blue Pacific'. Both are shore junipers, which are relatively salt tolerant, making either a candidate for planting near sidewalks and driveways.

Third is the Physocarpus Tiny Wine®. This is another Proven Winner, smaller than other varieties of ninebark commonly available. It grows to a height and width of just 3 to 4 feet. It blooms with tiny pink flowers in the spring, and keeps a nice fine-textured maroon foliage all season long.

The last recommendation I have is Physocarpus Lemon Candy™. This plant has outstanding foliage that starts out bright yellow and matures to yellow-green. It does not scorch in full sun, looking good all season. It grows to about 30" tall and makes an excellent color accent among the standard greens and purples of the common landscape.

The ninebarks are an up-and-coming group of landscape plants. They are tough yet good-looking and adaptible to many sites.

Take a look at these plants and I think you'll find they have a place in your landscape designs.

Water: too much – or too little?

WATER, WATER, EVERY WHERE
And all the boards did shrink;
Water, water, every where,
Nor any drop to drink.

Some may recognize these verses from Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s “The Rime of the Ancient Mariner.” Even if one does not, it is worth noting this work, now approaching 200 years since it was written, was one of the first works advocating a more responsible use of our natural resources. The mariner’s senseless killing of an albatross leads us to question how we use and treat the fauna of this planet. Much of what is written could be applied to the flora as well.

If we remember back to this spring, days of rain created saturated soils and standing water. This did not bode well for some plants. In Coleridge’s story the sailors had no fresh water to drink, but here our trees and evergreens had more than enough fresh water, yet still could not absorb that water. Why not?

Stranded in the equatorial waters of the Pacific all but the ancient mariner eventually die from heat and lack of water.

The overabundance of water and saturation of the soil interfered with a plant’s ability to respirate and to absorb nutrients and water through its roots. The cold, wet spring also encouraged the growth of fungi, like Phytophora, in the soils which can cause lesions on the roots, which, in turn, interferes with a plant’s ability to metabolize whatever it needs. This is called root scald. At first glance some trees looked like they were wilting, in some respect they were, their roots were unable to take in nutrient and moisture causing the plant to collapse. Usually if a plant is dry leaves will wilt, turn yellow from the inner and lower branches, and the plant will begin to drop foliage to compensate.

When a plant is too wet it will begin to wilt only to have the apical branches turn reddish -brown but not separate from the plant.

How can one prepare for weather extremes? First, there is more than one way to plant a tree. Common sense goes a long way! Planting depth, the type of planting media, and choosing plants that will tolerate different soils are basic questions any landscaper should be considering for every site. It isn’t rocket science, but there is a lot more to landscaping than digging a hole and throwing the plant in!

Does the site drain well? If not, should I elevate plants in beds that will cause excessive water to run off? Choosing plants with higher metabolisms, plants with dark, more fibrous roots that can handle periodic or ephemeral flooding and including beneficial mycorrhizae in the planting media to protect root nodes will lead to transplant successes. If your planting losses are over 10%, is it due to lack of planting experience and good practices, or is your company guilty of cutting corners and careless installations? Even if you are not warranting your work, poor workmanship will catch up with any company eventually.

If heavy plant losses are “an albatross around your neck,” be a “sadder and wiser man,” and question practices and losses. Remember “the best gardeners have killed just about everything!” Becoming a more responsible contractor and pursuing best planting practices Will reduce losses and increase the bottom line. It pays to care!

“...but this I tell to thee…
He prayeth well, who loveth well
Both man and bird and beast.

He prayeth best, who loveth best
All things both great and small;
For the dear God who loveth us,
He made and loveth all.”

The Christensen’s Mobile App is here

We are pleased to announce the release of this
time-saving tool that you are going to love.

It's been months in the making, but the day has arrived for the unveiling of our new smartphone app that is designed to make your life easier.

Watch Todd's video for all the highlights, then head to either the Google Play Store or iTunes to download your FREE copy.

Want to get YOURS?
It's free - and it's easy!

Scan this QR code to go to our app in iTunes

If you're an iPhone user, simply go to iTunes and search for "Christensen's Plant Center" - or click this link.

Scan this QR code to go to our app in Google Play

If you're an Android user, go to the Google Play Store and search for "Christensen's Plant Center" - or click this link.

Questions? Give us a call at (734) 454-1400

CLICK FOR MORE INFORMATION

« Previous 1 … 9 10 11 12 Next »

Archive

1. Thin-barked Trees

2. Harvest Time

3. Coarse Roots

Want to get YOURS? It's free - and it's easy!

Want to get YOURS?
It's free - and it's easy!