Selecting plants that can grow under dry conditions can be challenging. Selecting plants that can grow in the shade can be challenging as well. Finding plants that can grow well under both conditions? Well, that narrows your plant selection down a bit, but there may be more options than you think.

It must be realized that even though a plant is considered drought tolerant, this is only the case once their root systems are firmly established. Until that point, they must be watered regularly. This could take up to a year or more of effort before you can cut back on the watering, but during extended droughts, even established plants need a little help to survive. Using mulch will help by retaining water that is provided by you or mother nature.

Also, there is a difference between shade loving and shade tolerant plants. Some plants that grow well in full sun can tolerate shade, but they will be a bit thin and wispy and not blossom as much. If these plants are to survive, all of their other needs must be met to compensate for the lack of sun.

I will start with shade tolerant varieties. The one selection which, can in some cases, be considered a small tree, is hamamelis (witch hazel). Shrubs include buxus (boxwood), taxus (yew), aronia (chokeberry), and diervilla (bush honeysuckle). Hydrangea quercifolia (oakleaf hydrangea) are surprisingly drought tolerant once established, and of all the shrubs mentioned will tolerate the shade best as they are considered shade loving.

Shade tolerant perennials include campanula (bellflower), hemerocallis (daylily, especially stella d’oro), digitalis (foxglove), geranium sanguineum (cranesbill), liriope (lilyturf), euphorbia (spurge), and phlox subulata (creeping phlox).

You may have better luck with these shade loving varieties. Hosta (plantain lily), ajuga (bugleweed), pachysandra (spurge), vinca (myrtle or periwinkle), tiarella and huecherella (foamflower), hellebore (lenten rose), brunnera (bugloss), lamium (dead nettle), athyrium niponicum (painted fern), and bergenia (pigsqeak).

It may be difficult to plant a shady dry area, but if you put the time in to make sure the plants will be healthy and establish a good root system, I think you’ll do fine. It’s not the biggest plant list, and may not cover every possible candidate. Hopefully you don’t also have deer around making the list even smaller (as well as your hostas).

Designers need to consider many factors when choosing plant material. Evergreen, herbaceous, deciduous? Foliage or flower color, bloom time, preferred growing conditions and so on. One of the most important considerations is plant habit and "ultimate size".

What does "ultimate size" mean?

• Complete in natural development or growth.
• A tree or plant that has reached a desired size or age for its intended use.

Like the old saying goes “Right plant, right place”. Planning and research is vital when evaluating ultimate size to avoid future problems. In addition to knowing how large a given plant may grow, you also should factor in the growth RATE. Dwarf plants aren't always that small at maturity but if it takes them 50 years to get there is that really going to be an issue? On the other hand, popular plants like Colorado Spruce or Weeping Cherry tend to outgrow their siting in a decade or two.

Research is important, and not just on the habit and size of the plant but also the root system, which is often overlooked. For example, don’t plant a Willow tree over a septic tank. Yes, someone I will call ...John Doe... did this to get back at his landlord. Now that might be an example of someone who knew what “ultimate size” would do with the wrong intentions but, planning is everything.

Is it going next to the house? Sidewalk? Driveway? Near power lines? If it’s a row of pine, are you planting them too close to each other making them susceptible to needle diseases in the future? Will the property owner be able to shimmy past the planting bed to get to the building entrance a few years from now? These are just a few examples of what to consider when choosing the right plant.

Above image courtesy of the Arbor Day Foundation (www.arborday.org)

Of all the questions I get about growing hosta the most common one is: which varieties will take sun - and how much sun is too much sun? Many shaded areas get SOME sun and choosing the right varieties for the conditions will be the difference between success and...

Maybe we won't talk about that.

All hostas prefer to have morning sun and maybe some late afternoon sun. It is that midday sun that is the challenge. Sun tolerance, is to some degree, leaf-color related.

Most hosta with whitish variegation will burn in hot afternoon sun. Those that have more green to chartreuse variegation will handle some of that midday sun as long as they are getting plenty of water. You should avoid putting blue hosta in the sun as the blue color is a waxy coating on the leaf and will melt off, turning your blue plants green. Golden hosta WANT sun. If they don’t get enough sunlight they will turn that sickly greenish-yellow chartreuse color. You know the one. Green hosta will typically take some midday sun, and I have found that the thicker the leaf the more sun they will take.

Do you have a shady area that merges into a more sunny area and looking for some continuity? Here is a list of sun-loving hostas to fill in the sunny areas. Remember, soil moisture is key to keeping the plants looking good.

Rhododendrons are considered among the more difficult plants to trim. Many sources of information about pruning Rhododendron come from the Southern and Western states. The usual complaint about Rhododendron is that they get too large. That is not a big problem in the Midwest.

"Disbudding" refers to two aspects of pruning Rhododendrons. The first is simply removing spent blossoms. I’ve heard arguments over the years that, unless removed, the old flowerbuds will inhibit production of new flowers. I found absolutely no reference to this in my research travels. Also, to me this makes no sense. Mother nature put those flowers there and she can take them off – the shrub will bloom again! The best reason to remove them is one of aesthetics.

The second aspect of disbudding is pruning a Rhododendron for shape, compactness, and size of planting area allowed. Most pruning recommendations include removing dead or damaged branches as well as removing branches along the ground. These danglers can be more easily affected by fungus and can be a highway for weevils.

Now for the tough part – pruning a Rhododendron for shape and size. In essence, any pruning one does is shortening the distance between growth years. You can prune the current year’s growth back by hand right after blooming when the new growth is sticky or by mid-June with pruners when new growth has hardened off a bit. Pruning deeper on bare wood does not usually give good results. That limb will often die back or result in new shoots that may be spindly. One aside is my own observation that some of the newer grafted Rhododendrons are producing growth buds on low, woody branches which may develop if apical branches are damaged or removed.

Rhododendrons also include PJM types and Azaleas - both evergreen (kaempferi) and deciduous (Exbury and Northern Lights series). Most of the pruning rules are the same, however, you can prune much deeper into secondary wood and even lightly shear with good results. Compactness for shape is encouraged but avoid the meatball-effect. Also, hard pruning can reduce respiration and recovery.

Pruning aside, the best results for Rhododendron will be had from good soil preparation (i.e. moist, well-drained conditions), the addition of organic matter, and application of acid fertilizers.

Boxwood blight is a fungal disease of boxwood that results in the defoliation and decline of boxwood plants. Once it’s in the landscape it is very costly and difficult to control with fungicides. The boxwood blight fungus has a short life cycle and infections can spread quickly between plants, especially under humid, warm and wet conditions that favor disease development.

The main way that this disease is spread is through the movement of infected plants, cuttings, and boxwood debris. The sticky fungus spores are also spread on contaminated tools and equipment, worker's clothes, and water. The spores are unlikely to travel long distances through the wind. All plants infected with the fungus should be destroyed, as the chance of further spreading the fungus is highly probable. Limiting the spread of this sticky fungus is very difficult and can only be accomplished by following good sanitation practices.

Boxwood blight has been found in Michigan. Because of this we will NOT accept any returns on boxwood once they have left the nursery. We will also ask that you do not bring any boxwood plants, leaf litter, or clippings into our nursery. We reserve the right to not load any vehicle that has boxwood or debris from outside of our nursery. Please do not bring in any samples of boxwood that you are trying to match - take several pictures of the plant you are trying to match and we will help the best we can.

Boxwood blight can look like many other issues that boxwood can have, such as leaf spot, winter burn, and other non-threatening fungal diseases. This means that:

The only way to confirm whether a plant has boxwood blight is to submit samples to a professional plant disease diagnostic lab.

You’ve just installed your plant material and now it’s time to decide which material to use to cover the soil. The two most common materials are mulch and stone. Aesthetic preferences aside, here are some pros and cons for each.

We’ll start with stone. Starting with the pros, stone does not break down and need replacing. Also, you have few issues with weeds initially due to the use of weed barrier fabric. One of the problems with stone is that it is much more expensive to install, though some would argue that the upfront costs are offset by the fact that it doesn’t have to be replaced annually.

The primary issues are maintenance. Though weed barrier is effective in the short term, eventually a layer of dust and plant material create a medium on top of the fabric that weeds can and will grow in. This can be mitigated somewhat by careful cleaning of the beds (the heavier the stone the better for cleaning), but eventually weeds will become a real problem.

Physically removing weeds is difficult. Chemical removal is an option, but then you still have to struggle to remove them once they’ve died. Also, stone does not benefit the landscape planting in any way, and though weed barrier fabric is designed to allow water to get through, if there is any kind of slope, more water will run off than soak in compared to not using it. Over time the fabric may degrade or show through, then you can have a real mess.

Also, stone in a sunny location can get uncomfortably hot for some plants. Adding or removing plants, as well as working on irrigation, becomes more difficult in a stone bed. For many though, the aesthetic value is worth any complications.

With mulch, I will start with the cons. It does have to be replaced as it breaks down. If you replace it yearly for aesthetic reasons, the old mulch might need to be removed to prevent a harmful build up. We've all seen towering cones of much piled against tree trunks, and it is not a good thing.

If you wait for it decompose sufficiently, removal of the old mulch may not be necessary. Mulch is also susceptible to more weed growth initially than stone, though the weeds are easier to remove physically. Mulch can become matted as the season progresses causing some water runoff, but a quick fluffing or cultivating of the mulch will break up mats to restore proper absorption. The best thing about mulch is its benefit to the plant material.

Mulch is good for water retention in the soil, provided there’s enough water to permeate the mulch in the first place. Mulch also provides a good environment for beneficial insects, fungi, and microbes in the soil. Some amount of nutrients are also made available to the plants as the mulch decomposes. Mulch also provides insulation for plant roots that is effective in hot and cold conditions.

It is a waste of money to use weed barrier fabric under mulch as you are defeating the purpose by immediately placing a medium in which weeds can grow on top of it.

Stone or mulch? The final decision I leave to you.

As the 2018 season draws to a close, you are probably ready for a well-deserved break. We are, too!

But did you know that even during the off-season we are here to assist you? I know it’s probably the last thing you want to think about right now, but if your bid is due or you’re planning your upcoming season, we can help with these needs.

During the winter months we have a few members of our team staffed to quote your bid or upcoming job. The advantage of doing this early is that we can search for and source specific material so it can be brought in once the season starts. When material is as scarce as it has been the past few years, getting orders in early can make all the difference. Let’s say you need some 5” Oaks or something else we don’t regularly stock - getting that information to us as soon as possible is vital to ensure we can meet your needs.

The process is easy, you can go to our website (Christensen's Plant Center) or download our app and click on the contact us / quote link to submit your request. Contact any of our salespeople directly with questions or to request a quote on your project. Our knowledgeable and long-time sales staff can help you select everything you need for your landscape projects – quickly, efficiently and affordably – so you can get back out on the job.

Not sure who to contact? Any of our salespeople would be happy to assist you! Call our main office at (734) 454-1400, or if you prefer, fill out the contact form and we will contact you.

Let us help you get the year started off right!

It’s not just for December any more.

As we approach year's end, homes are being decorated and lit up for the Holiday season. However, seasonal outdoor lighting is catching on for other holidays too, like Halloween and Independence Day. Probably not Groundhog Day. But maybe we can make that a thing.

How can you give your customers the ultimate in flexibility when customizing holiday lighting?

Whether it’s a brand new lighting system with the latest technology, swapping colored MR16 lamps into an existing system, or powering regular light strands and other decorations from an adapter that you operate from the palm of your hand - we can help you customize your lighting designs for that “wow factor” that your customers deserve.

Alliance BL200-BT. The Alliance Bluetooth Bullet fixture has a 4 watt integrated color changing lamp that you completely control from your smart phone. This product is truly innovative. Pick the preset colors of your choice or use the color prism on the phone app to get the exact color that you want! Every holiday color scheme has just become easy. The fixture also has three preset white settings, and can be dimmed.

What else can these little miracles do? They can be zoned, grouped, operated individually, or together. These fixtures have antennas that operate through a mesh Bluetooth technology, meaning that each fixture networks with each other. The more fixtures that you have installed, the stronger the Bluetooth signal will be. I have personally installed 7 at 50 feet away from 2 groupings and it worked flawlessly

Because the technology is built directly into the fixture itself, there is no need for additional equipment to install, and it will operate with any low voltage transformer from any manufacturer. The BL200-BT fixtures operate through a free iPhone or Android app. We'd love to show you how these work, so please stop by our Hardscape Center for a demo.

Brilliance Smart Socket WiFi Adapter. This product is an absolute game changer! Designed by Brilliance LED for landscape lighting systems, these adapters synchronize with your home’s WiFi network so that you may operate your system from ANYWHERE, at ANY TIME. Whether you are just outside on your patio or on vacation in Australia, so long as the adapter is connected to your WiFi, you will have complete control of it. You can set up on/off times on a 7 day week, or operate it manually through your smart phone. And if your customer doesn’t have a landscape lighting system, the Smart Socket will operate nearly anything that you plug into it. Don’t be fooled by the other cheap WiFi adapters on the market. These are built to last!

Alliance iTimer. If you are familiar with Alliance’s popular BT150/BT300 transformers, then you’ll fully understand how these work. The iTimer runs on Bluetooth technology that will synchronize with your smart phone. Its internal astrological clock will do all the work for you once it links up with the GPS settings on your phone. After that, plug in whatever you wish into it, set up you timing schedules, and you’re done. These are excellent timers for locations that are just outside of a home’s Wifi range.

Colored MR16 Lamps. If you are looking for a lamp in one specific color, such as blue for enhancing a blue spruce or maybe green to give a boxwood hedge that extra pop, chances are that we can help you make that happen. Christensen’s Plant & Hardscape Centers has strong distribution relationships with Sollos, Alliance, Brilliance LED, and Integral Lighting, so chances are high that we can get the color that you’re looking for at a competitive price, and in a manageable amount of time.

These examples that I have listed for you will enable you to expand a new lighting project, or enhance a previous one. For more information, please contact us or stop by and we will be happy to show you how these products operate and how they will benefit your customer.

...and I don't mean cider or donuts. No, it's COLOR TIME! 

Mums. Burning bush. Maple trees! You can probably name a dozen fall color plants without even thinking about it. But what about choosing from some of the lesser-known plants that also shine every autumn? Here are my top ten favorite fall color plants that may not be on your radar.

• Hydrangea quercifolia and cultivars: The large, rough-textured leaves are especially striking as they turn shades of red and purple every fall.
• Viburnum x juddii: Beloved for it's sweetly-scented spring flowers, this medium-sized shrub has great burgundy-purple fall color accented by blue to black berries.

• Itea virginica cultivars: This medium-sized native shrub deserves to be planted more often. The orange, red and burgundy fall color is outstanding and is extremely long lasting.
• Epimedium cultivars: An underused perennial tolerant of dry shade that gets brilliant red to purple fall colors.
• Amsonia hubrectii: This North American native perennial grows to about 3x3'. The fine, feathery foliage turns a striking golden-yellow in the fall.
• Clethra alnifolia ‘Hummingbird’: Usually planted for the amazingly fragrant flower spikes in mid-to-late summer, this smallish shrub turns a gorgeous golden yellow each fall.

• Fothergilla ‘Mount Airy’: This is a handsome 3-5’ shrub that gets wonderful fall color in hues of red-purple, orange and yellow.
• Amelanchier: OK, so this one is not that obscure but it has to be in my top ten.
• Vaccinium hybrids: These ericaceous shrubs (best known are blueberries) will surprise you with their beautiful red-orange fall color.
• Panicum virgatum cultivars: ‘Shenandoah’ and ‘Hot Rod’ are two that turn beautiful red or burgundy.

Various parts of the country are known for their vibrant displays of fall foliage colors, none more so than the Midwest, and in particular, Michigan. It seems odd that we get such joy from the annual death of leaves from deciduous trees, shrubs, and even some perennials. Why do leaves change colors in the fall, and why can’t we guarantee that fall color to our customers?

I'm going to super-simplify the scientific part of this explanation so here goes:

• Chlorophyll produces carbohydrates (sugars) plants need for growth and is responsible for the green color in leaves and stems.
• Carotenoids express as yellow and orange and are generated during the growing season alongside the green.
• Anthocyanins are only produced in the fall after sugars are trapped in the leaves, and create reds and purples. More reds, and earlier reds, can come from plant stresses, low nutrition, and near-but-not freezing temperatures. Freezing stops the process of making red pigments.

During spring and summer chlorophyll masks the other pigments so you pretty much just see green, however shorter days, longer nights, and cooler temperatures trigger an abscission layer to form, cutting off the flow of sugars and replacement chlorophyll. As the green color fades, the underlying yellow and orange colors are revealed, and reds and purples develop. Eventually all the colors break down, leaving brown tannins.

What colors are produced, and in what amounts, and when in relation to other plants, is due to the genetics of a particular plant, growing conditions, and weather.

Similar environmental conditions as those causing red color in leaves also may cause fall colors to come sooner, or later, or to last longer some years than others. Drought during spring and early summer may signal the plant to form the abscission layer early, shutting down growth and causing color change sooner than usual.

So while moisture is good earlier in the season, too much late in the season means more clouds, less sun, and more muted colors. Too much rain in fall plus strong winds, may cause many leaves to fall prematurely. Cooler temperatures in late summer, and plenty of sunshine, often leads to brighter colors sooner. Cool is good, but too cold (freezing) can be bad, killing leaves early.

So ideal for fall color would be a moist growing season early, dry late summer and early fall, with sunny warm days and cool nights during the latter.

Choosing cultivars with known fall color-producing ability will certainly help, but as you can see there are other factors that come into play, and you really cannot guarantee fall color.