So, you’re ready to install some landscaping. What plants should you use, where, and how many? 

First thing to consider is the environment

Shady, sunny, windy, sandy, clay, deer ridden, salty… all of these conditions can exist on the same property. It is important to choose plants that prefer the environment you are dealing with.

Every environment has plants that love it

You will need to know how the sun is tracking and consider existing large trees or other plants to know which areas will be sunny, shady, or both. Some plants are excellent for adapting to several different conditions. For instance,  Diervilla (bush honeysuckle) grows in sun, shade, dry soil, alkaline soil, or acidic soil, and is deer resistant.

Draw your plan to scale using plant's mature sizes

Plan your landscape, on paper, to scale, and draw your plants at mature or near mature size. Scale is important for determining how much material you will need. Drawing plants at mature size will avoid overcrowding, and that in turn reduces maintenance as the plants have the room they need to grow and don’t have to be chopped into ugly unnatural shapes to control their size. This way, instead of becoming overgrown and ugly and needing redoing, your landscape will continue to improve with age.

Use garden art or boulders to fill in gaps while plants grow

If this leaves some open spots while you’re waiting for the plants to grow, these are perfect spots for garden art, sculptures, containers, bird baths, fountains, and accent boulders. Accent boulders are usually a good idea intermingled with large perennial beds to maintain some visual interest in the winter.

Use some evergreens for winter interest

And speaking of which, plant some evergreens so you have some winter color, and leave your ornamental grasses up until spring for some winter interest.

Use beds large enough to layer different sizes of plants

Another good reason to know how big your plants are going to get, aside from overcrowding, is so you can plant "stadium seating" style. Taller plants in the back, shorter in front.

Follow these guidelines, and your customers will be recommending for years to come.

Anyone who knows me, knows that I do NOT follow fashion trends. In no way am I a fashionista! In fact, according to my wife I should go on one of those TV shows where the Dad gets a makeover on his wardrobe. On the other hand she knows all of the fashion trends. As a hair stylist, she keeps up on what is hot, what is not, and what is coming back around.

So how are landscape plants like the fashion industry? Well, new plants are constantly being introduced, replacing older models. Other plants fall out of use, some for good reason. We have watched flowering pear go from the tree that everyone planted everywhere, to one that goes on a landscape only rarely. Or how about creeping junipers? Anyone remember those? One of our veteran employees and I were recently lamenting how we used to get a semi-load of creeping junipers almost every week “back in the day”. Now we get them about once a month, and never a full truck load. They are still a great option but it seems that people are planting other things instead. I am betting it won't be long before they come back around.

So plants are like pants. They come into fashion, they go out of fashion, and sometimes they come back in again. And sometimes to be different, you have to look at what is old or out of fashion. For instance, Kolkwitzia (Beauty bush) is a cool plant that no one uses anymore, but should. You see them often where an old farmhouse once stood, or in older neighborhoods like downtown Plymouth. The masses of pink flowers in the spring are really striking and the dark green leaves turn an awesome yellow in the fall. A great plant to use in areas where viburnum or forsythia would go.

So change your p(l)ants! Look at using something old or different and your designs can appear fresh, new, and not like everyone else's. I would still avoid the pear, though.

The first time I saw a plant reversion, I wasn’t sure what I was looking at. A customer had called and said there was a TREE growing out of her Dwarf Alberta Spruce. I had never seen this before, so I had to get my Dad involved. He said it was a classic! One of the buds one year cast off the dwarfing gene and the regular white spruce began to grow instead. I have to admit it was pretty cool looking - the white spruce growing straight and tall - but the customer wasn’t thrilled. The reversion is always more vigorous and would eventually take over the plant if not addressed.

Many of the most interesting and unique plants in the trade come from a spontaneous mutation, like a witch's broom or a variegated sprout. The mutation is discovered, a cutting is taken, and the variety eventually propagated and introduced. Some of these mutations aren’t that stable, and you will see parts of or entire plants reverting to the original form. I would like to point out that this is different than when the rootstock takes over a grafted plant, in that case you can see the growth is coming from below the graft.

Reversion can be brought on by many factors, but environmental stress seems to be a common cause. If you are observant when you are out on landscapes, you can see reversions all the time. That spruce example happens now and again, and loss of variegation is another one that’s fairly easy to find.

So getting back to my “Classic” scenario, my Dad suggested to our customer that we should prune it out immediately, as it was only going to get worse. There was a good chance the plant would survive and eventually fill in around the removed portion. If we didn’t, the reversion would dominate, and the resulting tree was never going to be an attractive specimen. I’m a tree hugger and my Dad’s even worse so of course we recommended trying to save the tree. In the end, we replaced the plant - because of its location and visibility the recovery time was unacceptable.

Each case is a judgement call. If you catch it while the reverted growth is fairly small, a simple pruning may be sufficient to eliminate it. Perennials such as hosta can be dug up, split, and replanted.

So be on the lookout for reversions. They are kind of cool, sometimes a little weird but definitely more common than you think. Take some pictures, share with us what you are finding and I will pull together a follow up discussion on this topic. Remember: Prune out all you can to “nip it in the bud” - if it’s too late replace it - and get a picture for our discussion.

Selecting plants that can grow under dry conditions can be challenging. Selecting plants that can grow in the shade can be challenging as well. Finding plants that can grow well under both conditions? Well, that narrows your plant selection down a bit, but there may be more options than you think.

It must be realized that even though a plant is considered drought tolerant, this is only the case once their root systems are firmly established. Until that point, they must be watered regularly. This could take up to a year or more of effort before you can cut back on the watering, but during extended droughts, even established plants need a little help to survive. Using mulch will help by retaining water that is provided by you or mother nature.

Also, there is a difference between shade loving and shade tolerant plants. Some plants that grow well in full sun can tolerate shade, but they will be a bit thin and wispy and not blossom as much. If these plants are to survive, all of their other needs must be met to compensate for the lack of sun.

I will start with shade tolerant varieties. The one selection which, can in some cases, be considered a small tree, is hamamelis (witch hazel). Shrubs include buxus (boxwood), taxus (yew), aronia (chokeberry), and diervilla (bush honeysuckle). Hydrangea quercifolia (oakleaf hydrangea) are surprisingly drought tolerant once established, and of all the shrubs mentioned will tolerate the shade best as they are considered shade loving.

Shade tolerant perennials include campanula (bellflower), hemerocallis (daylily, especially stella d’oro), digitalis (foxglove), geranium sanguineum (cranesbill), liriope (lilyturf), euphorbia (spurge), and phlox subulata (creeping phlox).

You may have better luck with these shade loving varieties. Hosta (plantain lily), ajuga (bugleweed), pachysandra (spurge), vinca (myrtle or periwinkle), tiarella and huecherella (foamflower), hellebore (lenten rose), brunnera (bugloss), lamium (dead nettle), athyrium niponicum (painted fern), and bergenia (pigsqeak).

It may be difficult to plant a shady dry area, but if you put the time in to make sure the plants will be healthy and establish a good root system, I think you’ll do fine. It’s not the biggest plant list, and may not cover every possible candidate. Hopefully you don’t also have deer around making the list even smaller (as well as your hostas).

Designers need to consider many factors when choosing plant material. Evergreen, herbaceous, deciduous? Foliage or flower color, bloom time, preferred growing conditions and so on. One of the most important considerations is plant habit and "ultimate size".

What does "ultimate size" mean?

• Complete in natural development or growth.
• A tree or plant that has reached a desired size or age for its intended use.

Like the old saying goes “Right plant, right place”. Planning and research is vital when evaluating ultimate size to avoid future problems. In addition to knowing how large a given plant may grow, you also should factor in the growth RATE. Dwarf plants aren't always that small at maturity but if it takes them 50 years to get there is that really going to be an issue? On the other hand, popular plants like Colorado Spruce or Weeping Cherry tend to outgrow their siting in a decade or two.

Research is important, and not just on the habit and size of the plant but also the root system, which is often overlooked. For example, don’t plant a Willow tree over a septic tank. Yes, someone I will call ...John Doe... did this to get back at his landlord. Now that might be an example of someone who knew what “ultimate size” would do with the wrong intentions but, planning is everything.

Is it going next to the house? Sidewalk? Driveway? Near power lines? If it’s a row of pine, are you planting them too close to each other making them susceptible to needle diseases in the future? Will the property owner be able to shimmy past the planting bed to get to the building entrance a few years from now? These are just a few examples of what to consider when choosing the right plant.

Above image courtesy of the Arbor Day Foundation (www.arborday.org)

Of all the questions I get about growing hosta the most common one is: which varieties will take sun - and how much sun is too much sun? Many shaded areas get SOME sun and choosing the right varieties for the conditions will be the difference between success and...

Maybe we won't talk about that.

All hostas prefer to have morning sun and maybe some late afternoon sun. It is that midday sun that is the challenge. Sun tolerance, is to some degree, leaf-color related.

Most hosta with whitish variegation will burn in hot afternoon sun. Those that have more green to chartreuse variegation will handle some of that midday sun as long as they are getting plenty of water. You should avoid putting blue hosta in the sun as the blue color is a waxy coating on the leaf and will melt off, turning your blue plants green. Golden hosta WANT sun. If they don’t get enough sunlight they will turn that sickly greenish-yellow chartreuse color. You know the one. Green hosta will typically take some midday sun, and I have found that the thicker the leaf the more sun they will take.

Do you have a shady area that merges into a more sunny area and looking for some continuity? Here is a list of sun-loving hostas to fill in the sunny areas. Remember, soil moisture is key to keeping the plants looking good.

Rhododendrons are considered among the more difficult plants to trim. Many sources of information about pruning Rhododendron come from the Southern and Western states. The usual complaint about Rhododendron is that they get too large. That is not a big problem in the Midwest.

"Disbudding" refers to two aspects of pruning Rhododendrons. The first is simply removing spent blossoms. I’ve heard arguments over the years that, unless removed, the old flowerbuds will inhibit production of new flowers. I found absolutely no reference to this in my research travels. Also, to me this makes no sense. Mother nature put those flowers there and she can take them off – the shrub will bloom again! The best reason to remove them is one of aesthetics.

The second aspect of disbudding is pruning a Rhododendron for shape, compactness, and size of planting area allowed. Most pruning recommendations include removing dead or damaged branches as well as removing branches along the ground. These danglers can be more easily affected by fungus and can be a highway for weevils.

Now for the tough part – pruning a Rhododendron for shape and size. In essence, any pruning one does is shortening the distance between growth years. You can prune the current year’s growth back by hand right after blooming when the new growth is sticky or by mid-June with pruners when new growth has hardened off a bit. Pruning deeper on bare wood does not usually give good results. That limb will often die back or result in new shoots that may be spindly. One aside is my own observation that some of the newer grafted Rhododendrons are producing growth buds on low, woody branches which may develop if apical branches are damaged or removed.

Rhododendrons also include PJM types and Azaleas - both evergreen (kaempferi) and deciduous (Exbury and Northern Lights series). Most of the pruning rules are the same, however, you can prune much deeper into secondary wood and even lightly shear with good results. Compactness for shape is encouraged but avoid the meatball-effect. Also, hard pruning can reduce respiration and recovery.

Pruning aside, the best results for Rhododendron will be had from good soil preparation (i.e. moist, well-drained conditions), the addition of organic matter, and application of acid fertilizers.

Boxwood blight is a fungal disease of boxwood that results in the defoliation and decline of boxwood plants. Once it’s in the landscape it is very costly and difficult to control with fungicides. The boxwood blight fungus has a short life cycle and infections can spread quickly between plants, especially under humid, warm and wet conditions that favor disease development.

The main way that this disease is spread is through the movement of infected plants, cuttings, and boxwood debris. The sticky fungus spores are also spread on contaminated tools and equipment, worker's clothes, and water. The spores are unlikely to travel long distances through the wind. All plants infected with the fungus should be destroyed, as the chance of further spreading the fungus is highly probable. Limiting the spread of this sticky fungus is very difficult and can only be accomplished by following good sanitation practices.

Boxwood blight has been found in Michigan. Because of this we will NOT accept any returns on boxwood once they have left the nursery. We will also ask that you do not bring any boxwood plants, leaf litter, or clippings into our nursery. We reserve the right to not load any vehicle that has boxwood or debris from outside of our nursery. Please do not bring in any samples of boxwood that you are trying to match - take several pictures of the plant you are trying to match and we will help the best we can.

Boxwood blight can look like many other issues that boxwood can have, such as leaf spot, winter burn, and other non-threatening fungal diseases. This means that:

The only way to confirm whether a plant has boxwood blight is to submit samples to a professional plant disease diagnostic lab.

You’ve just installed your plant material and now it’s time to decide which material to use to cover the soil. The two most common materials are mulch and stone. Aesthetic preferences aside, here are some pros and cons for each.

We’ll start with stone. Starting with the pros, stone does not break down and need replacing. Also, you have few issues with weeds initially due to the use of weed barrier fabric. One of the problems with stone is that it is much more expensive to install, though some would argue that the upfront costs are offset by the fact that it doesn’t have to be replaced annually.

The primary issues are maintenance. Though weed barrier is effective in the short term, eventually a layer of dust and plant material create a medium on top of the fabric that weeds can and will grow in. This can be mitigated somewhat by careful cleaning of the beds (the heavier the stone the better for cleaning), but eventually weeds will become a real problem.

Physically removing weeds is difficult. Chemical removal is an option, but then you still have to struggle to remove them once they’ve died. Also, stone does not benefit the landscape planting in any way, and though weed barrier fabric is designed to allow water to get through, if there is any kind of slope, more water will run off than soak in compared to not using it. Over time the fabric may degrade or show through, then you can have a real mess.

Also, stone in a sunny location can get uncomfortably hot for some plants. Adding or removing plants, as well as working on irrigation, becomes more difficult in a stone bed. For many though, the aesthetic value is worth any complications.

With mulch, I will start with the cons. It does have to be replaced as it breaks down. If you replace it yearly for aesthetic reasons, the old mulch might need to be removed to prevent a harmful build up. We've all seen towering cones of much piled against tree trunks, and it is not a good thing.

If you wait for it decompose sufficiently, removal of the old mulch may not be necessary. Mulch is also susceptible to more weed growth initially than stone, though the weeds are easier to remove physically. Mulch can become matted as the season progresses causing some water runoff, but a quick fluffing or cultivating of the mulch will break up mats to restore proper absorption. The best thing about mulch is its benefit to the plant material.

Mulch is good for water retention in the soil, provided there’s enough water to permeate the mulch in the first place. Mulch also provides a good environment for beneficial insects, fungi, and microbes in the soil. Some amount of nutrients are also made available to the plants as the mulch decomposes. Mulch also provides insulation for plant roots that is effective in hot and cold conditions.

It is a waste of money to use weed barrier fabric under mulch as you are defeating the purpose by immediately placing a medium in which weeds can grow on top of it.

Stone or mulch? The final decision I leave to you.

As the 2018 season draws to a close, you are probably ready for a well-deserved break. We are, too!

But did you know that even during the off-season we are here to assist you? I know it’s probably the last thing you want to think about right now, but if your bid is due or you’re planning your upcoming season, we can help with these needs.

During the winter months we have a few members of our team staffed to quote your bid or upcoming job. The advantage of doing this early is that we can search for and source specific material so it can be brought in once the season starts. When material is as scarce as it has been the past few years, getting orders in early can make all the difference. Let’s say you need some 5” Oaks or something else we don’t regularly stock - getting that information to us as soon as possible is vital to ensure we can meet your needs.

The process is easy, you can go to our website (Christensen's Plant Center) or download our app and click on the contact us / quote link to submit your request. Contact any of our salespeople directly with questions or to request a quote on your project. Our knowledgeable and long-time sales staff can help you select everything you need for your landscape projects – quickly, efficiently and affordably – so you can get back out on the job.

Not sure who to contact? Any of our salespeople would be happy to assist you! Call our main office at (734) 454-1400, or if you prefer, fill out the contact form and we will contact you.

Let us help you get the year started off right!