...when it comes to landscape lighting.

Remember a few years back when the “New Math” technique was introduced to classrooms? I don’t know if it’s pursued any more, and I hope it isn’t, because it was a LOT of unnecessary steps to get to a bottom line when the old way was much more efficient, in my opinion.

Now let’s talk some “New Math” with lighting. To get optimal performance from halogen and incandescent systems, here’s some “Old Math” formulas you either have to have memorized, have a cheat sheet, or use a manufacturer's system calculator. You do this in order to figure out EXACTLY what voltage tap to use on a transformer to reach that sweet spot between 10.8 and 12 Volts per fixture, using the HUB connection method:

First calculation: Watts / Volts = Amps

Then: Amps x Distance x (2 x Resistance per Foot) = Voltage Drop

Oh, wait, you'll need this in order to get that last variable (Resistance per Foot):

• 12 gauge wire:   .00162
• 10 gauge wire:   .00108
• 8 gauge wire:     .00064

So, if you have five 20 watt halogen fixtures going 100 feet and using 12 gauge wire:

• 5 x 20 (total watts) / 12 (volts) = 8.3 (amps) then
• 8.3 (amps) x 100 (feet) x [2 x .00162 (R/F)] = 2.68 (voltage drop)

So the transformer needed for halogen or incandescent lighting, you would either have to use the 15 Volt tap, or remove 1 fixture from wire. 10 gauge wasn’t too bad to work with, but 8 gauge was a nightmare. Most contractors would have cheater formulas in their heads, such as if a run was 100’ or less, then you would use 12-2 wire, or if it was longer, use 10-2 wire. You get the idea.

Now that we got through “Old Math”, here’s “New Math” when using LEDs. DID YOU KNOW that an LED’s “sweet spot” isn’t between 10.8 and 12 volts? Instead, it’s between 8 and 24 volts per fixture, which means there’s a LOT of wiggle room! LED lamps have a far less draw on wattage as compared to their halogen & incandescent cousins, and will have equivalent or superior lumen output.

Quick example: Depending on the manufacturer, a standard JC20 LED lamp running between 2-3 watts has an output between 200 and 250 lumens - equal to or better than a 20 watt halogen that will likely max out at 200. Less draw = less resistance on a wire run. Less resistance = lesser gauge wire. This also means that you don’t need all those taps in a transformer, which normally means the transformer costs less.  One tap should more than cover any run you have using 14-2 gauge wire. If you’re doing wire runs longer than 150’, you can always play it safe and bump up to a 12-2 gauge wire and that will solve the issue.

In conclusion, at least in my twisted opinion, when installing/designing a lighting system, the “Old Math” halogen methods are near obsolete as compared to LED’s “New Math”, meaning that it isn’t really necessary any more, due to advances in modern technology, and it will only improve from here. “New Math” outside of the landscape lighting world however… I can figure out 12 x 10 in my head instead of writing out a 12 part equation.

If you’re reading this, chances are you are involved as a contractor in the Green Industry, whether it’s with plants, pavers, ponds, designs, lighting, or maintenance.

The big question is: Do you do only one aspect of the industry, or do you do many? During my tenure here at Christensen’s, I’ve seen companies come and go, often because they would only focus on one area. Times have changed, and big, easy planting jobs don’t come around as often as they used to - and there’s a lot of competition out there, more than ever since the mid 90’s.

This is where diversification comes in, and chances are that you’ve already been doing it.

An easy one is adding landscape lighting to your planting or hardscaping jobs. If you missed my two-part video on how to install lighting, you can catch up here. Keep in mind that you don’t have to sell a whole new job - lighting is the perfect second-stage enhancement for an earlier project.

Everyone knows about pavers, but some feel that they wouldn’t know how or where to begin. DID YOU KNOW: During the winter months and in the early spring, paver supply manufacturers such as Unilock and Rosetta hold how-to instructional seminars? Another handy piece of information: The “Lords of Legos” at the Christensen’s Hardscape Center are always ready to help you with a project.

We all battle the elements and obstacles associated with this industry, and everyone needs a little help from time to time. Knowing “a guy” that can fill the void when we’re in a pinch can make all the difference.

These are some suggestions of ways you can diversify your business, and there is still time to put them in motion yet this season. We want to see you succeed and grow your company year after year and are here to help you out as much as we can along the way.

Outdoor accent lighting is one of the simplest ways to boost a landscape project from good to GREAT. Whether you are working with an all-new design or enhancing an established landscape, adding low-voltage lighting has a lot going for it.

We carry quality fixtures in a range of finishes to complement any style. Don't overlook using lighting in hardscape projects, too. How about path lighting integrated right into a paver walk? From deck lights to well lights, path lights to wall washes - there is a lighting solution for pretty much any situation. 

I've made a short video to show you just how easy it is to work with today's modern lighting products. Take a few minutes to watch - I think you'll be inspired to give outdoor lighting a place in your future designs.

New for 2017!

We are pleased to introduce our new landscape lighting line, Alliance. This company features high quality aged brass fixtures, and a wide variety of spot, flood, path, and other fixtures that many manufacturers do not offer.