I have a chain-link fence that I hate. Well, I don’t hate it. It serves the purpose of containing my Corgis outside while I leave the house.  They do not like to be corralled into the house, so the dog door to the porch and the ugly fence keep my little doggos happy. Many years ago, I began obscuring the hideous chain-link fence with shrubs. There’s lilac and Rose of Sharon, but my favorite addition was when I started adding Clematis.

I began accumulating Clematis as I traveled in my position for a large plant brand.  At that time, the company I worked for did not offer any Clematis in our product line. So, as I visited customers, I was intrigued by this perennial that could hide that loathsome fence in such a lovely blanket of color.  Nearly twenty years later, I can’t remember the variety of my first Clematis, but I distinctly remember carrying the 1 gallon pot onto the plane and holding it in my lap for the hours-long flight from New Hampshire to Michigan. My first clematis was gifted to me and started my love affair with the bright, big blooms. 

And, is that such a bad way to spend a few minutes on a hot pre-holiday afternoon?

So, here’s my quick attempt at the original logical, informative argument…

Why plant clematis when there are so many other climbing plants to choose from? Many other climbing plants can be invasive, like trumpet vine (I’m trying to keep this one off the fence), honeysuckle or wisteria (though some non-invasive cultivars do exist), most Clematis, at least in our area of the country, are not. If you avoid Sweet Autumn Clematis terniflora, there are a lot of excellent non-invasive options in this genus. Nicknamed ‘Queen of the Vines’, it is an incredibly beautiful climbing plant to choose.

If you want to wax poetic about Clematis, come see me sometime!

If you have seen me around the nursery lately, you might have noticed that I look a little different. That would be because I am currently 9 months pregnant, expecting my first child- a baby girl, due on July 21^st. With this article's due date, and my actual due date approaching, I wanted to think of a way to tie my baby to the horticulture industry. Not only would that make this article a memorable keepsake, but also something I could relate to on a personal level. Then it dawned on me, BABY plants! Considering the approaches of seeds, seedlings, and plugs when starting a garden or in nursery production.

Which is better when starting your own garden- seeds, seedlings, or a mixture of both? Well, that depends on how much time and money you have to invest into this project.

If choosing to start with seeds, you will have the benefit of variety. There are endless varieties of seeds available, which would allow you to grow exactly what you want. Seeds are also typically less expensive, so if cost were a factor, seeds could be a little easier on the wallet. However, do consider the added costs of materials needed for seed propagation which could include seeding trays, special tools, and equipment like grow lights (depending on your location).

Another important detail to consider is the time-consuming nature of seeds, and the time it takes to reach maturity on your selected varieties. This timing is crucial to having your crops ready when you want them. Some seeds are quick to reach maturity, such as lettuce and spinach which can be ready in as little as 30 days. Other crops such as tomatoes and peppers can take months to fruit after planting, which makes them a better option to start as a seedling. In this case, knowing your limits and making these choices based on time to maturity will be your best bet.

Lastly, when choosing seed propagation, there also is a sense of pride in growing something start to finish. That feeling of pride is something I have experienced in the past but am now feeling in a way I never thought possible. Starting something from scratch and looking back and saying “I DID THAT” is a very special feeling. Especially in the end when you see your perfect baby- or cucumber, that you grew from scratch.

Starting a garden from seedlings- or transplants, is a much easier route to get the garden of your dreams. There is no shame in letting a professional start your plants off, grow them up and then plant the established transplants in a straight row. Think of this like sending your seeds off to daycare!! The benefits of this include less planning time, less loss, and can give you more predictable results. Timing is still something to consider when planting seedlings, but MUCH less so. Instead of all of the planning of maturation times, you will just need to make sure your seedlings are not planted too late, giving them time to bear fruit by their desired harvest date. A downfall of starting with seedlings can be cost. Generally, the transplants from your local nursery are more expensive than seeding the garden. Keep the cost in mind if this is the route you are considering.

Here at Christensen’s, we do some of our own perennial production. Considering that we are not a farm, or greenhouse, we start all our production from plugs (comparable to transplants). Over the years, through trial and error, I have learned what does, and doesn’t work for us. Cell sizes in the industry range from 128 cell-teeny tiny cells, all the way up to 21 cell- jumbo cells. These individual units are called liners. Over years of experimentation, I have learned that the larger cells- 30c to 21c- work best for me. Depending on the plant, and time of year, I get the best finish out of these. There is a lot of planning when it comes to perennial production. For example, a Nepeta started past Memorial Day can finish off in 4 weeks, whereas an Echinacea started in April, will typically not be available until mid-June. My main tip is to start at your desired finish date and work backwards as to when it should to potted, crop by crop. The plug size and temperature when planting are factors you must consider. Or just come see us for all of your perennials. We’re happy to help!

In conclusion, there are benefits to starting your garden with seeds, seedlings, and a combination of both. As with most things, time, money, and determination are factors that can help make the decision for you. Choose wisely, but just know that like with becoming a parent, there will be much to learn. In my case I am going to go into it with an open mind, taking advice from those around me, while also finding my own way. I have learned that growing my little ‘seedling’ is not easy. In fact, it is the most challenging thing I have done to date. But I know the reward at the end will be the most glorious of ‘gardens’ I could have ever imagined.

You may ask, 'Why?' or perhaps “Do I need a Hallmark card?" No cards are required. And, ‘Why?’, Well, because peonies are about to bloom! Which peonies? – ALL the PRETTY PEONY!!

I have written a lot of articles in my life, but I do not usually jump up and say me, me, me please, pick me. But an article about PEONIES?!? – Yes, please. They have always been my favorite. The flower is massive, and the fragrance is sweet (it is also one of the few smelly plants that does not give me an instant allergy headache!). I cut them and enjoy them inside by the bucketful. I may end up with a few ants indoors – but who cares, it’s worth it for peony flowers! And, well, they are just ants.

But the production crew does not stop there. No, they have added Itoh Peonies to their production list. A totally different animal than an herbaceous Peony. Itoh’s are a cross between an herbaceous peony and a “Tree Peony” (they are known as “Intersectional” Peony – in case you were wondering). Why would you ever want that – well Itoh’s form a semi-woody stem that is able to hold up the huge flower (both come from the “Tree” Peony (Peony sufferticosa), and it also has and produces herbaceous stems – so if it dies to ground no problem. I have several at home. I do not cut them back until spring and then only to the buds on the woody stems. Every year they get bigger and bigger as new herbaceous stems join the 'club'. Believe it or not, they look more and more fab every time I see them. The easiest to come by is 'Bartzella'. It has a semi-double to double yellow flower that can be 6-8” in diameter. ‘Morning Light’ has a semi-double fuchsia flower. On the upside the plant flowers for longer period as side shoots will also flower and the colors cannot be found in P. lactiflora. (there aren’t even semi vigorous yellows in herbaceous Peony.) The foliage is very clean and lasts all year and when it blooms it is covered with flowers not only on the top but also on the sides. The only thumbs down I would give the Itoh cultivars is like a “Tree” peony the flowers are not cuttable. Vase life is only hours!

I can’t let you go just yet because although I no longer have much to do with perennials and even less on production I know a secret. There are – are you ready for this – “Tree Peonies” in stock. Yeppers. True “Tree” peonies are a rare find. They are incredibly hardy with massive flowers held up by woody stems. The group we have is an “assorted” color collection. But it doesn’t really matter because they are, well, not only Peonies but they are “Tree” Peonies and……. IT IS PEONY MONTH – YEAH! 

Just in case you haven’t heard about it, today is the day of the 2024 Total Solar Eclipse. We would like to think that our newsletter is so good that you feel it’s the only source of information you need, but that would mean you are just now finding out it is going to get dark this afternoon! Our main customer base is not in the arc of totality. I believe we are only going to hit 97%. So, for us, it’s mostly been business as usual. A couple of weeks ago, I heard that some of our customers are expecting an influx of people into their area of up to 2 million! There have been a lot of recommendations in the news on how to best enjoy this rare event in our area. I hope that you make the best of it. 

But since we’re in the business of plants, I’d like to ask you…
What would you consider a “Total Eclipse of a Plant?”

In the ever-changing annual market, they have bred for sun tolerance in Begonias. In recent years, Proven Winners has brought on the Double Delight and the Solenia Begonias. Both series are recommended for sun to part sun. They aren’t recommended for shade at all!

But my question is, “Why?”  So many plants are sun tolerant already.  Shade varieties are the minority and need to be sought out for troublesome spots in the landscaping.  Where are the shade-tolerant Coneflowers? How about a good tall shade-loving Ornamental Grass? Why are we breeding (in my opinion) in the wrong direction?

On the other side of the moon, are there sunny plants eclipsing themselves by taking some shade? Who is trying to bring the bright colors of roses into the dark corners of the garden? David Austin, that's who. His English rose collections have some full sun roses that will take shadier locations. Some of Dave’s roses only need 4-5 hours of sun. Ironically, one of them is called “Bring Me Sunshine”.  They are a step in the right direction of bringing more plants over to the shady side. 

Now, that’s what I call a total eclipse of a plant!

Looking for more options to keep continuity between sun and shade? Check out our resources on the website or give us a call. We are happy to help!

In late fall, besides the trees changing colors, you will also notice a change in your perennials. In this article, I would like to discuss fall perennial practices. Topics will include fall cleanup, which perennials should be cut back vs. which should not, perennial varieties that provide habitat for local wildlife, and how we close up the perennial greenhouses in the nursery. These tips should help with the overwintering process.

On the flip side, there are a few arguments for leaving some perennials in your garden alone. To protect the habitats of birds, and beneficial insects, you could consider not cutting Rudbeckia, Echinacea, Eupatorium or perennial sunflower. These seeds will provide food throughout the winter. If your home is close to wooded areas, meadows, or contains a brush pile, your garden may be even more habitat friendly. Some perennials that I would not cut back in the fall would be Asclepias, Ferns, Heuchera, and Dianthus. This is to protect the crowns during the harsh winter. Perennials are more cold-hardy when their stems are left intact. These stems can trap in snow, and work as an insulator for their crowns. A quick clean-up in the spring, and these will be just fine. The last reason why I would consider leaving some perennials be, would be their winter interest. Some stuff just looks awesome covered in snow! Species with stiff stems, or flat or cone-shaped dried flowers have a great winter look! Things like Sedum Autumn Joy, Ornamental grasses, or Echinacea Purpurea add to a garden’s winter beauty!

It is also not uncommon to line an entire house with some of those winter tolerant varieties to both save space, and act as a buffer for other material. We also have one heated structure that we use to protect our grasses (mainly Miscanthus, and Pennisetum varieties), from ever freezing. By keeping minimum heat on our grasses, we are ensuring a healthy, happy grass come spring.

Whether you are overwintering perennials in your landscape, or at your nursery there are many factors to consider. Moisture, temperature, snowfall, and sometimes just plain old luck are all factors that will determine how your perennials fare over a long winter. Keeping in mind potential winter damage, bird and insect benefits, and most importantly, what’s best for the plant, will ensure a seamless transition to the brisk winter days! Happy spring clean ups!

What is more beautiful than Michigan in the fall? The colors around this time are brilliant! What can you do to bring that fall color home? You can consider some stunning fall-blooming perennials. One often overlooked aspect of perennial gardening is planting varieties with different bloom seasons- including fall. This is important because perennial blooms often have a short life span. Sometimes as short as two weeks! By keeping the seasons in mind when planting, you can ensure a captivating landscape with showy perennials all season long. Let me highlight my favorite fall-blooming plants and why they should be added to your next project.

Let’s start with an obvious one. An oldy but goody- the fall mum. Mums are perfect for fall because they bloom later in the season-August-October. This is usually around the time other perennials just finish their bloom cycle. Although there is debate on whether mums are perennial (best luck when insulated in the ground), they are also used in pots, or on porches for those spooky fall months. If dead-headed, you could extend the life of your mums to last the whole fall season. Available in red, orange, yellow, purple, pink, and white, fall mums will be arriving here at Christensen’s at any moment.

Another fall favorite is Anemone. Most Anemone varieties take some time in the spring to show any growth, so if you have some in the ground, do not fret if you do not see growth right away. There is an exception for the Anemone Sylvestris which is a spring blooming variety. The late bloomers don’t show color until around August and last through the fall. Varieties like ‘September Charm’, ‘Elfin Swan’, or ‘Robustissima' are a great choice. Ranging in color from white, pink to red, with adorable Daisy-like flowers, these are a perfect choice to fall.

Asters are another perfect option if you are looking for fall color. There are two different types of Aster- New York, and New England varieties. In general, New York Aster are shorter with thin  

The last plant I would like to highlight is Perovskia (Russian Sage). Perovskia comes in all shapes and sizes. Over the years, we have trialed many varieties to determine which can withstand the heat. One of the best varieties out there is the Perovskia Blue Jean Baby. Growing to 3x3 ft tall and wide, this one is great because it maintains it shape, and doesn’t get too floppy. These lavender flowers and silver foliage last all the way through fall. They also have a pleasant sage-like smell. Find varieties like Blue Jean Baby any time at the plant center.

Welcome back – I hope that everyone had a great holiday. Whew! Spring is finally over! For me, summer is a time of slight relaxation. 2023 is humming along and I have a month until I must start 2024. (Let’s not think about that!).

I wanted to check with everyone and make sure you all saw some of the new plant varieties at the nursery – if not, come on in as there are more newbies here and incoming.

There are a couple of new plants that I am excited about. Of the hundreds of new cultivars every year it is hard to know what to choose. Sometimes, I throw dice, sometimes I look at the magic 8-ball, and sometimes it has to do with a catchy name (I am a sucker for a catchy name!). Then I do some research and decide if the name is catchy enough! Check some of these out:

I have a couple of newer grasses this year, as well. My favorite is the Andropogon gerardii cultivars. Check out ‘Holy Smoke’ (Cheech and Chong movie ??), ‘Blackhawks’ (again with the movie?), and Red October (another movie!). ‘Holy Smoke’ and ‘Blackhawks’ both are going to be 4-5’ tall and ‘Red October’ is a dwarf coming in at 2-4’. All 3 are native prairie grass and rock hardy. All 3 also have purple-green leaves and get varying shades of red from mid-late summer through fall.

I also have a couple of new Hydrangeas! Please don’t tell Chris!!! They are a secret. The one I am most excited about is Hydrangea paniculata ‘Puffer Fish’, “a Bobo on steroids”! It has white flowers that age lime and pink. They will typically send another flower at this same time and rebloom over top of older blooms. It gives the effect of double flowers – very showy. It seems everyone likes the compact habit of the ‘Tuff Stuff’ so take a look at this one ‘Pop Star’ . This one is from the Endless Summer people. This is a typical blue or pink lacecap (macrophylla). However, ‘Pop Star’ is far more compact (and looks far denser) than the traditional ‘Endless Summer’. Its biggest claim to fame is that it reblooms much faster than a traditional ’Endless Summer’.

Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to get my hands on Jeffery’s Weigela ‘Bubbly Wine’. If you were unaware, Jeff Good is now the patent holder of Proven Winners® Weigela ‘Bubbly Wine’. I will let him tell you all about it. I on the other hand will tell you about a relative of Weigela ‘Midnight Wine’ with darker, shinier burgundy leaves and a 12’ tall about 3’ wide habit. W. ‘Midnight Wine Shine’ is also much denser. Finally, W. ‘Very Fine Wine’ is a dwarf – 30x30” with better hardiness and heavier rebloom.

Before I let you go – let’s talk Ilex crenata ‘Sky Pencil’ I have not grown this personally and we have not had it at the nursery before. Everyone is yelling at me about this plant. Everyone wants it and I keep saying it is not hardy enough for us, you keep saying it is! I have special ordered this plant in the past and those that have put it in the landscape have told me they are hardy. So, this year I will stock a few. Ilex crenata ‘Sky Pencil’ is a female ilex and will need a pollinator to bloom (any ilex that blooms at this same time will work.) ‘Sky Pencils’ get to be about 6-8’ and 2’ wide – yes, with a very columnar habit. It is a very dense tightly branched shrub. Considered a solid zone 6 possibly a zone 5 – it may all depend on the winter. Berries or not, it is a good-looking plant!

Have you tried these new varieties? Let us know what you think of them! We welcome your feedback on the plants we stock.

I hope to see you around the plant center, checking out all the new stuff!

I am missing flowers (both literally and emotionally).

How can I work for a plant nursery and have zero blooms in my yard in the middle of summer? (Maybe because I work for a plant nursery?) I get so excited at the beginning of the season with all the pretty things coming in that I take them all home and plant them. Tulips and Daffodils, Hellebores, creeping phlox’s, Dicentra. Stunning. And then what happens? After the blooms fade and the ephemerals die back, I end up with a lot of green. And then… nursery life goes into full swing and by the time I get to slow down and catch my breath, it is mid-summer.

Where is my color? I need plants. Taking a walk through our perennial lot I notice all the plants that are in full sun with beautiful flowers. I want that! Easy choices are the Rudbeckias. Echinaceas, and Hemerocallis. But what are some less obvious selections? My flower beds have some time in the shade, so in order to get the best show of color, I need varieties that can handle both. So, on my walk, I took a few notes.

Geraniums are a good choice. Full sun or part shade, “Rozanne” can be a good rambler. I need to fill in some space and I know she’s about 20” tall by 28” spread. Very low maintenance and long-lasting blooms throughout the whole season can guarantee a nice show of color through these dog days of summer.

Astilbe’s have always been one of my favorites and we offer a wide array of sizes and color. I’m a big fan of their fluffy, showy flowers. Although we have them in full sun, Astilbe’s actually prefer a bit of shade to cool them down after a long hot day.

Our Chelone “Hot Lips” are just about to pop. 2’-3’ feet high and a 1’ spread, these are great to add a backdrop or color to a dull corner. These will be perfect for this time of year! They can grow in drought conditions until established or they can grow in bog or rain gardens. They are low maintenance and will handle the full sun or partial shade.

Heucheras, I think, are going to be a staple. With many varieties to choose from, they are a great, easy way to tie any color combination into the landscape. Different heights and sizes will be perfect to tuck in around the taller plants. And again, heucheras prefer part shade, can handle sun, like it a little dry. Perfect for my needs!

There is a theme here- low maintenance and lots of color!

And finally, ground cover! Of course, some of that “green” in my yard are weeds. Since I really don’t have a lot of time to throw down mulch every year in the spring I’m going to have to plant something. We have lots of choices here at Christensen’s, however, I have found that Lamium is a great choice for spreading. Vigorous but not invasive, the two-toned foliage is striking and can fill in quickly throughout the season. If I was just looking for a colorful addition, I'd go with 'Orchid Frost'. But, I’m thinking the 'White Nancy' may be a great addition to brighten up and throw some definition into the mix.

I now have a few choices. But there are so many more! Seriously, it’s like choosing a paint color. I know if I took another walk through the perennial lot or into the Hosta House I will have a whole new set of plant varieties, colors, and textures to take home and play with! The choices are plentiful!

Christensen’s Plant Center has a wide range of departments. One of them being the Perennial Department. Known to most as “The Perennial Girls”, we are the group that receives, grows, and maintains the stunning perennials you see around the nursery. This includes the beautiful material on the Perennial Lot, roses, grasses, and more! I'd like to introduce you to the Perennial production department, and all that goes into ensuring you have the best possible perennials to meet your landscape needs.

Some of you may not know, but as well as bringing in perennials fully grown plants off trucks, some of the perennials you find around the nursery are produced right here on our property. Our “west” location has greenhouses that switch over from winter storage to perennial production as the weather breaks. Spring is our busiest time. We spend our weeks potting up as much as possible, so that come summer, we have plenty of dazzling product. We grow a wide range of perennials, grasses, and even some shrubs. This spring, we even potted up some Boxwood varieties with big hope for success!

Soil mixes (which have been trialed over time), pot sizes and types, and water needs are all things taken into consideration in the production department. Hemerocallis Stella, Hosta Patriot, Heuchera Palace Purple, and Nepeta Walkers Low are all production favorites. These staples are always growing in production as a backstock to ensure that we always have some on hand. With the inventory shortages industry wide, this back stock can also come in handy when large quantities are unexpectedly needed.

Aside from the staples, we also grow some specialty items such as Peony, Dianthus, and other “funky” varieties. These diverse items are some that we have trialed over time and have proven to do well with. Being able to provide what is needed as availabilities change, is a huge benefit to the Production team!

Perennial production is a flexible department, that can adjust to both industry and customer needs. We work hard to grow and maintain our perennials to ensure that we have a fabulous product year-round! Head over to the “Perennial Girls” for all your perennial questions and needs. 

When I was growing up my father and I planted gladiolus corms in our flower garden next to the house. I remember their bold colors reliably displaying each summer. When I moved into my own home years later I found all sorts of new and exciting colors available. They were beautiful that first year, but the following year I noticed that most of my glads didn’t come back. After some internet-sleuthing I realized that they are supposed to be lifted and stored inside for the winter. So why did they always come back when I was a kid?

Microclimate perhaps? Our main flower garden was against a south-facing brick wall, with years of compost mixed into our sandy soil. Glads don’t like a wet bum, so our native, well-drained soil was a good match. The sun-exposed brick wall warmed up the soil, tempering the chilly winter ground.

Could it have been the heirloom varieties we grew? I’m generally a believer that local heritage varieties are hardier. This seems to be the case with gladiolus. In my experience the new fancy ones, though beautiful, are hit-or-miss with successfully overwintering in our area.

Here are some tips to help you on your way to beautiful spires of color each year:

Plant in pots

Be sure your pots are large and heavy enough so the flowers won’t blow over, also make sure they have drainage holes. Add rocks to the bottom of the pot, top with a sandy soil mix. For an extended blooming season plant pots a couple weeks apart, or mix varieties in the same pot. You can add supports to help the spires stand up as they grow tall. There are shorter, and even dwarf varieties available that may work well in pots without support or the fear of wind damage on balconies. After the flowers are spent it could be a good time to move the pots somewhere less conspicuous, as the plant does not rebloom. Sometime before the first frost, dump out the pots and collect the corms, set them somewhere where they can dry in the open air for a couple days, then lightly cover them up to dry further. For final long-term winter storage place them loosely in layers in a cardboard box, separating layers with newspaper. Keep them in a cool dark place where they may nap until spring, protected from animals and sub-40f temperatures.

Leave ‘em in the ground

With a little bit of luck and some forethought you can have success simply leaving your glads in the ground! Moisture and extreme cold temperatures are what you’re trying to manage. To this end, I have found that digging trenches in sunny areas that are not prone to spring puddling works out well. Planting next to a sun-exposed wall is even better! Dig the trench about 14” deep and fill the bottom 3” with rocks. Mix some native soil with whatever amendments are needed to build a sand-heavy blend with a modest amount of organic matter. Plant the corms at various depths as you fill the trench with soil. I’ve sunk ‘em down 8” with no problems. Hardier varieties such as ‘Violet Queen’ and ‘Atom’, as well as many old heritage classics may help you gain an edge on the colder weather.

Glads will do well with a mulch covering the soil and a balanced fertilizer after emergence.