When I was growing up my father and I planted gladiolus corms in our flower garden next to the house. I remember their bold colors reliably displaying each summer. When I moved into my own home years later I found all sorts of new and exciting colors available. They were beautiful that first year, but the following year I noticed that most of my glads didn’t come back. After some internet-sleuthing I realized that they are supposed to be lifted and stored inside for the winter. So why did they always come back when I was a kid?

Microclimate perhaps? Our main flower garden was against a south-facing brick wall, with years of compost mixed into our sandy soil. Glads don’t like a wet bum, so our native, well-drained soil was a good match. The sun-exposed brick wall warmed up the soil, tempering the chilly winter ground.

Could it have been the heirloom varieties we grew? I’m generally a believer that local heritage varieties are hardier. This seems to be the case with gladiolus. In my experience the new fancy ones, though beautiful, are hit-or-miss with successfully overwintering in our area.

Here are some tips to help you on your way to beautiful spires of color each year:

Plant in pots

Be sure your pots are large and heavy enough so the flowers won’t blow over, also make sure they have drainage holes. Add rocks to the bottom of the pot, top with a sandy soil mix. For an extended blooming season plant pots a couple weeks apart, or mix varieties in the same pot. You can add supports to help the spires stand up as they grow tall. There are shorter, and even dwarf varieties available that may work well in pots without support or the fear of wind damage on balconies. After the flowers are spent it could be a good time to move the pots somewhere less conspicuous, as the plant does not rebloom. Sometime before the first frost, dump out the pots and collect the corms, set them somewhere where they can dry in the open air for a couple days, then lightly cover them up to dry further. For final long-term winter storage place them loosely in layers in a cardboard box, separating layers with newspaper. Keep them in a cool dark place where they may nap until spring, protected from animals and sub-40f temperatures.

Leave ‘em in the ground

With a little bit of luck and some forethought you can have success simply leaving your glads in the ground! Moisture and extreme cold temperatures are what you’re trying to manage. To this end, I have found that digging trenches in sunny areas that are not prone to spring puddling works out well. Planting next to a sun-exposed wall is even better! Dig the trench about 14” deep and fill the bottom 3” with rocks. Mix some native soil with whatever amendments are needed to build a sand-heavy blend with a modest amount of organic matter. Plant the corms at various depths as you fill the trench with soil. I’ve sunk ‘em down 8” with no problems. Hardier varieties such as ‘Violet Queen’ and ‘Atom’, as well as many old heritage classics may help you gain an edge on the colder weather.

Glads will do well with a mulch covering the soil and a balanced fertilizer after emergence.

How's everyone doing? I think we are now past the worst of the summer heat but to be honest I was ready for fall weeks ago. We may like to complain about the weather but when you are out in the hot burning sun day after day I think it's justified. Congratulations on making it through the dog days! Labor Day is the traditional end of summer but you and I both know there will be weeks of beautiful - even hot - weather before we trade sunscreen and Gatorade for hoodies and Carhartts. But today, let's get out of the sun for a minute and do some shade gardening.

I'm a big fan of shade gardening, and the plants that thrive in shade and partial shade. I used to have an enormous Hosta collection but now that I am gardening in the country I had to scale back on those because they are basically expensive entrées for our hordes of deer. I keep a few favorites behind fences but out in the yard I have better luck with ferns. 

Lest you think that all ferns need daylong shade, I have quite a colony of Ostrich fern that do just fine in nearly full sun. In fact they were getting a little carried away so I had to take some of them out. Here they are happily crushing my baptisia.

You're going to need to provide supplemental water especially under big trees, but established ferns can be surprisingly drought tolerant. Maidenhair fern can be a little fussy but Autumn, Lady, Male and Cinnamon fern are all happy in part sun to full shade, which is also where you will find ME when it's 90° or better. And you should really try to have some Painted fern if at all possible. 

So let's take a break from summer heat and enjoy this word search puzzle created by our very own Jeff Good. (Answers here)

If there is one plant every landscape should have, it is the peony. This handsome perennial is long lived and easy to grow, given a site with at least half a day of sun and decently well-draining soil. They are stunning focal points in mixed beds, or as the backbone of a perennial border, and belong in any style of garden from farmhouse to contemporary. Once I saw a row of peonies in full bloom running up a long driveway. I almost went off the road. The hard part is choosing which ones to plant. 

Peonies come in three types. The first, and earliest to bloom, are the woody-stemmed tree peonies (P. suffruticosa). The second are the fully herbaceous garden peonies (P. lactiflora, officinalis, and others), and the third are the intersectional peonies that are basically a cross between the two. Today's post is about the garden peony, the best known and easiest to find.

Let's dive in! Peonies have been cultivated for thousand of years and that means there are thousands of cultivars to choose from. Colors range from the purest bright white, to ivory, coral, pink - allllll the shades of pink - into fuchsia and finally, red. No matter which colors you choose, they all go together, so feel free to mix it up. The proper planting depth is key to getting flowers, so be sure to get those eyes no more than 1.5 - 2" deep. 

Peonies also come in a variety of different flower forms. My favorites are the wide open Single and Japanese forms, with bright showy centers, followed by the Anemone type that have a contrasting center fringed by wide petals. Other forms are Double, Semi-double, and Bomb. Many cultivars are fragrant, too. The earliest blooming ones kick off the season in mid-May, and by planting different cultivars you can go until late June. 

You may have heard that peonies, once planted, do not like to be moved. It is true that they are happy to stay in your garden for decades, but they can be transplanted successfully if you - like me - decide to move and can't bear to leave them behind. I've had my 'Sea Shell' peony for a good thirty years and she's doing great in her new garden.

Here in SE lower Michigan we have an amazing resource in the Nichols Arboretum Peony Garden (Ann Arbor), which has a massive collection of herbaceous peony, many of which are heirloom varieties. It has to be seen to be believed! Admission is free and the prime time to visit begins around Memorial Day weekend. You'll come away with a burning desire to plant peonies everywhere you can get a shovel in the ground.

• Nichols Arboretum Peony Collection Website
• American Peony Society - Herbaceous Peonies
• Peony Flower Types - American Peony Society (PDF)

All good things in life come from a bulb, isn't that how the saying goes? Okay, maybe not, but that is certainly true with Lilium! Planted in the spring (or fall), and returning every year, lily bulbs come in many different colors, and sometimes have a speckled or brush stroke pattern.

Lilium (Garden lilies) begin blooming in late spring, beginning with the Asiatic hybrids, and the distinctive fragrance of Oriental lilies on a summer breeze is sheer delight. With a little planning one can have lily in bloom for much of the season.

At Christensen’s Plant Center, we carry many lilies. One favorite is the Asiatic hybrid ‘Matrix’. This dwarf variety will only get 16” tall, and is a vibrant red with an orange brush mark in the center. We also carry tried-and-true Oriental Lily ‘Casa Blanca’ which gets 3-4’ tall. The highly fragrant pure white blooms are perfect for a classic look.

This year, we’re excited to offer three new Lilium combination pots. We’re loving the Asiatic Pot Lily Looks™ ‘Patio Sunrise Combo’ featuring yellow, pink, and orange dwarf varieties (14-16”). This will give you a fun mix that is perfect for a patio planter or cut flower bouquet.

The second is Asiatic Pot Lily Looks™ ‘Bloom Extensions™ Orange’. Lily flowers, though stunning, are usually short lived, but with Bloom Extensions™, you could get over 6 weeks of color. Two orange-flowering varieties, carefully selected to harmonize, have been potted together. The flowering times are offset, giving a seamless show of color. This is a great way to extend the display in your client’s landscape. This is an ultra dwarf combo reaching only 12-14”.

The third is Asiatic Pot Lily Looks™ ‘Bloom Extensions™ ‘Red & Yellow’. This stunning pairing of the yellow and red-speckled ‘Tiny Nugget’ (early, 14”) and the deep red ‘Tiny Rocket’ (later, 16”) is a real showstopper.

All the Lily Looks™ varieties have been selected for massive flower production, a short, compact habit, and suitability for container growing. Quantities are limited, and the grower has sold out - don't miss these! 

Whether you are looking for something unique or classic, our selection of Lilium has just what you are looking for.

A recent article by my coworker Matt reminded me of this old saying. It’s born of the experiences of many rock and perennial gardeners. Throughout the years gardeners have collected and experimented with plants, looking for ways to use plants not necessarily accustomed to their soil type or zone. Their answer, in part, was raised rock gardens. Not only aesthetically pleasing, this approach created mini-climates in small spaces much in the same way mountain ranges create dramatic changes in flora from ridge to ridge. Lush forests give way to arid deserts on opposing side of the same mountains.

Rocks and raised beds give plants good drainage. Many perennials in the North die, not from cold, but from excessively wet ground conditions. Perennials such as Dianthus, Lavandula, Gaura, Thymus, et al. thrive in their first plantings only to rot during their juvenile winters. Perennials with long tap-like roots such as Lupines, Hollyhock, Foxglove to name a few die from crown rot due to excessive surface moisture. The fence post problem – solid above and below the ground but rots off right at ground level.

Ground-covering plants like Sedums, Ajugas, Thymus run along filling the crevices, encouraged by the cool, moist conditions. The seed of many annuals and perennials find some of these same places to spend their first winter, where they experience death and rebirth in the stratifying process. A true, natural nursery.

Rocks help ease the stress of extreme temperature change. In the summer they create cool, moist conditions on their down side. In the winter they warm with the sun, giving roots some protection against the cold. Gardeners were often able to include plants that were a zone less hardy. This also works for woody ornamentals that are usually considered sub-shrubs such as Buddleia, Caryopteris, Callicarpa, Hypericum, Crape Myrtle, and more. These types of woodies experience varying degrees of dieback but recover well from roots and heavier wood. Even just tucking hand-sized rocks around the base of perennials and shrubs can give protection and anchor the late-planted.

So when it comes to planting, if you’re ever in doubt, just go get one.

Photos © Holly Christensen, except mountain scene (Storyblocks)

It’s not always all grinding and going at Christensen’s Plant Center, sometimes we crew members get to stop and smell the flowers - and during the summer - find some of them crawling with beautiful monarch caterpillars.

Monarchs are not yet an endangered species, but they and their migration are being threatened and need protecting. So at Christensen’s we started rounding up our Monarch caterpillars and putting them into mesh butterfly cages with a milkweed plant for food. Monarchs feed solely on Asclepias, using the toxins in the milkweed to make themselves very unpleasant to predators. Animals and birds who eat a Monarch caterpillar or butterfly get pretty sick from it and won't eat another. There are still a lot of losses, though, so raising and releasing them really helps boost their numbers.

They are voracious feeders, so we check them daily, replacing the host plant as needed. Once they’re nice and fat, they’ll eventually J-up (they hang, head down, in a ‘J’ shape) and morph into a chrysalis within hours. Then after about 10 days, you’ll have a beautiful Monarch butterfly. Easy, right? One day when we came into work, we had three hatched and ready to take off!

Be careful of escapees though - we had one little guy escape and he ended up morphing into his chrysalis under the table. If you have a cage with a zipper, make sure there’s no one by it when you unzip it or a caterpillar could get caught in it (yes, sadly we learned that one from personal experience). Also beware of invaders: spiders and flies love to sneak in which can be dangerous for the butterflies-in-training! Other predators include wasps, assassin bugs, ants, toads, and even mice.

Plants like Allium, Buddleia, and Liatris seem to be swarming with Monarch butterflies this time of year. Monarchs are an important pollinator for many wildflowers. Providing a safe place for Monarchs to grow and multiply is a rewarding and beautiful experience.

See here for more about growing milkweed: Milkweed for Monarchs - Michigan DNR​

You may nave noticed something different in our perennial pots recently. Covering the soil of some of the varieties we grow are tiny rice hulls. Sounds delicious, right? No, it's not the starchy side dish.

Rice hulls are a sustainable soil amendment with many advantages. Here at Christensen’s Plant Center rice hulls are used mostly as a top dress to prevent weeds. Our perennial production department applies them at the time of potting. Used properly, they can help control a weed problem before it even begins. If you can manage to get more rice hulls in the pot than on your person, these can be very effective.

Rice hulls can also be used in the landscape. Mixed into the top 6-12” of your garden or planting beds, the advantages include better drainage, water holding capacity, and soil aeration. And for all of you environmentalists out there, rice hulls are 100% organic and biodegradable.

As a top dress, rice hulls are great for holding moisture and preventing weeds, but there are a few downsides. THOSE THINGS ARE A MESS! Once you open up the bale, you will find it in every pocket and every shoe of those around it. Also not the best thing to use on a windy day... We've found that the most effective plants to use it on have been hosta and daylily.

Sometimes the rice hulls work a little TOO well. With plants that cannot handle a wet crown, rice hulls should not be used. Since rice hulls are to be applied ½-1” thick, that can be too much moisture. For plants like sedum, rice hulls are not recommended. 

Rice hulls are a cost effective, easy way to maintain plant moisture and keep away weeds. Just not the best to have for lunch. 

...and I don't mean cider or donuts. No, it's COLOR TIME! 

Mums. Burning bush. Maple trees! You can probably name a dozen fall color plants without even thinking about it. But what about choosing from some of the lesser-known plants that also shine every autumn? Here are my top ten favorite fall color plants that may not be on your radar.

• Hydrangea quercifolia and cultivars: The large, rough-textured leaves are especially striking as they turn shades of red and purple every fall.
• Viburnum x juddii: Beloved for it's sweetly-scented spring flowers, this medium-sized shrub has great burgundy-purple fall color accented by blue to black berries.

• Itea virginica cultivars: This medium-sized native shrub deserves to be planted more often. The orange, red and burgundy fall color is outstanding and is extremely long lasting.
• Epimedium cultivars: An underused perennial tolerant of dry shade that gets brilliant red to purple fall colors.
• Amsonia hubrectii: This North American native perennial grows to about 3x3'. The fine, feathery foliage turns a striking golden-yellow in the fall.
• Clethra alnifolia ‘Hummingbird’: Usually planted for the amazingly fragrant flower spikes in mid-to-late summer, this smallish shrub turns a gorgeous golden yellow each fall.

• Fothergilla ‘Mount Airy’: This is a handsome 3-5’ shrub that gets wonderful fall color in hues of red-purple, orange and yellow.
• Amelanchier: OK, so this one is not that obscure but it has to be in my top ten.
• Vaccinium hybrids: These ericaceous shrubs (best known are blueberries) will surprise you with their beautiful red-orange fall color.
• Panicum virgatum cultivars: ‘Shenandoah’ and ‘Hot Rod’ are two that turn beautiful red or burgundy.

Horticulturally speaking, the color blue is rare. So rare, that many of the flowers we call "blue" are in fact... purple. Blue iris? Purple. Blue roses? HA! Purple - and weak at that. Syringa, Campanula, Lobelia, Hyacinth, Baptisia... all have varieties CALLED blue, but they are... purple. I found this quite confusing when I started in the nursery business. Apparently we gardeners are DESPERATE for blue in the garden and we will call anything close "blue".

This tendency extends to foliage as well - blue spruce, blue juniper, and blue hosta, are all rather more silvery than blue, with the added insult of the color wearing off with weather and time! I still chuckle about the customer I had on the retail lot one day, who accused us of spray-painting the 'Moerheim' spruce because, "Look! It rubs off!" There wasn't much I could say because he was right, it did.

There ARE a few truly blue flowers we can grow in Michigan. Amsonia, Delphinium, Virginia Bluebells, the annual 'Black and Blue' Salvia, Forget-me-nots, Sisyrinchium, and Ceratostigma all have excellent blue flowers. Scilla siberica is a minor bulb that naturalizes and can give you an ocean of blue flowers every spring. Chionodoxa's pretty good, too.

In shrubs you can try Caryopteris - wait, that one's a bit on the purple side - heck, it's barely a shrub, more like a woody perennial. Hmmmm. Hibiscus 'Blue Chiffon' is pretty blue. Almost. OKAY, OKAY, FINE. You want blue? You'd best be planting Hydrangea. The old favorite, 'Nikko Blue' has been surpassed by newer cultivars like Nantucket Blue™ and The Endless Summer® line, with the original Endless Summer®, Twist-n-Shout®, and BloomStruck®  all of which bloom on both old and new wood. These plants can be coaxed into producing nice blue blooms with the proper soil pH.

So you do have some options. And take those photos of bright blue-flowering plants on Pinterest with a grain of salt. Most of them are Photoshop. Or perhaps dyed like those poor Phalenopsis orchids at the grocery store.