At the risk of sounding lazy, (this is my second article arguing for less work on behalf of pollinators) I’d like to encourage you to talk to your customers about a modified fall cleanup.  Now, before you tell me that fall clean-up is a healthy revenue stream for you, hear me out…

Environmentalism used to be considered a passing fad, merely a trend that would swing in the opposite direction given enough time.  However, as the years have progressed, environmental consciousness has grown into a common practice among many of the younger generations.  While the Boomer generation tends to be split, each generation following tends to have a higher awareness and commitment to the environment. Therefore, a sound business strategy includes incorporating environmentally friendly practices into your business plan as a long-term growth strategy to keep your clientele from aging out of your services.

So now that I’ve argued the business sense around this strategy, let me give you the environmental impact of leaving the leaves:

Many pollinators and other beneficial insects overwinter in or below organic debris. Leaving a layer can help bees, butterflies, moths, spiders, fireflies, worms, and so many more utilize this kind of protection. And, all of these primary consumers provide needed sustenance to secondary, tertiary, and, down the line, apex consumers. Habitat preservation through leaving the leaves plays into the whole food chain in your small area of the world.

And lest you think that you have to leave them where they fall, raking them into designated areas is perfectly acceptable. Utilizing them as mulch in flower beds or around trees & shrubs can suppress weeds and infuse the soil with helpful nutrients for the next year.

The other environmental impact that we see from this idea is the reduction of tons of yard debris being dumped into landfills.  In the yards, the leaves have more access to oxygen to decompose aerobically without releasing excessive amounts of methane.

Of course, this whole argument is for naught, if the homeowners association or city insists on leaf cleanup. However, “leaving the leaves” has been a movement for decades.  As it continues to garner attention and interest, it may become the norm even in city ordinances and HOAs alike.  

I’ve made sure to research this article with some online sources that you can check out for yourself if you want to learn more about “Leaving the Leaves”…

https://www.usda.gov/media/blog/2022/10/17/fall-leave-leaves
https://www.nwf.org/Magazines/National-Wildlife/2015/OctNov/Gardening/Leave-the-Leaves
https://www.webstergrovesmo.gov/708/Leave-the-Leaves
https://mdc.mo.gov/magazines/conservationist/1995-10/autumn-leaves-myth-reality
https://xerces.org/leave-the-leaves?blm_aid=1217656837

If you have seen me around the nursery lately, you might have noticed that I look a little different. That would be because I am currently 9 months pregnant, expecting my first child- a baby girl, due on July 21^st. With this article's due date, and my actual due date approaching, I wanted to think of a way to tie my baby to the horticulture industry. Not only would that make this article a memorable keepsake, but also something I could relate to on a personal level. Then it dawned on me, BABY plants! Considering the approaches of seeds, seedlings, and plugs when starting a garden or in nursery production.

Which is better when starting your own garden- seeds, seedlings, or a mixture of both? Well, that depends on how much time and money you have to invest into this project.

If choosing to start with seeds, you will have the benefit of variety. There are endless varieties of seeds available, which would allow you to grow exactly what you want. Seeds are also typically less expensive, so if cost were a factor, seeds could be a little easier on the wallet. However, do consider the added costs of materials needed for seed propagation which could include seeding trays, special tools, and equipment like grow lights (depending on your location).

Another important detail to consider is the time-consuming nature of seeds, and the time it takes to reach maturity on your selected varieties. This timing is crucial to having your crops ready when you want them. Some seeds are quick to reach maturity, such as lettuce and spinach which can be ready in as little as 30 days. Other crops such as tomatoes and peppers can take months to fruit after planting, which makes them a better option to start as a seedling. In this case, knowing your limits and making these choices based on time to maturity will be your best bet.

Lastly, when choosing seed propagation, there also is a sense of pride in growing something start to finish. That feeling of pride is something I have experienced in the past but am now feeling in a way I never thought possible. Starting something from scratch and looking back and saying “I DID THAT” is a very special feeling. Especially in the end when you see your perfect baby- or cucumber, that you grew from scratch.

Starting a garden from seedlings- or transplants, is a much easier route to get the garden of your dreams. There is no shame in letting a professional start your plants off, grow them up and then plant the established transplants in a straight row. Think of this like sending your seeds off to daycare!! The benefits of this include less planning time, less loss, and can give you more predictable results. Timing is still something to consider when planting seedlings, but MUCH less so. Instead of all of the planning of maturation times, you will just need to make sure your seedlings are not planted too late, giving them time to bear fruit by their desired harvest date. A downfall of starting with seedlings can be cost. Generally, the transplants from your local nursery are more expensive than seeding the garden. Keep the cost in mind if this is the route you are considering.

Here at Christensen’s, we do some of our own perennial production. Considering that we are not a farm, or greenhouse, we start all our production from plugs (comparable to transplants). Over the years, through trial and error, I have learned what does, and doesn’t work for us. Cell sizes in the industry range from 128 cell-teeny tiny cells, all the way up to 21 cell- jumbo cells. These individual units are called liners. Over years of experimentation, I have learned that the larger cells- 30c to 21c- work best for me. Depending on the plant, and time of year, I get the best finish out of these. There is a lot of planning when it comes to perennial production. For example, a Nepeta started past Memorial Day can finish off in 4 weeks, whereas an Echinacea started in April, will typically not be available until mid-June. My main tip is to start at your desired finish date and work backwards as to when it should to potted, crop by crop. The plug size and temperature when planting are factors you must consider. Or just come see us for all of your perennials. We’re happy to help!

In conclusion, there are benefits to starting your garden with seeds, seedlings, and a combination of both. As with most things, time, money, and determination are factors that can help make the decision for you. Choose wisely, but just know that like with becoming a parent, there will be much to learn. In my case I am going to go into it with an open mind, taking advice from those around me, while also finding my own way. I have learned that growing my little ‘seedling’ is not easy. In fact, it is the most challenging thing I have done to date. But I know the reward at the end will be the most glorious of ‘gardens’ I could have ever imagined.

Spring is upon us and we are selling through our mulch at a mind-boggling pace. Hardwood mulch is incredibly popular with homeowners and contractors alike, but have you considered that there is an alternative? What if I told you that this aesthetically pleasing alternative not only suppresses weeds and smells good, it even inhibits several common pests?

Cedar mulch is all of these things!

Mulch, in general, helps the soil retain moisture by preventing rapid evaporation. It acts as a protective layer, keeping the soil temperature stable, and providing insulation for plant roots.

The reddish-brown color of cedar mulch adds visual appeal to garden beds, walkways, and around trees. It complements shrubs and ornamental plants beautifully and can create inspiring contrast to accents on a home or commercial building.

Property owners and maintenance crews may find the battle with persistent weeds is much easier to win with cedar mulch, homeowners may enjoy a landscape that is easier to manage and maintain.

These compounds have been tested for efficacy against gnats and are even available extracted as a pesticidal spray for indoor plants.

Spring in Michigan is always a temperamental time. One day it’s sunny and 70, and the next day it’s snowing. Drop the words “frost free date” anywhere in a Google search and you can get the average date predicting when it’s safe to plant.  The problem with averages is that they come from data on both sides of the average and using this date could leave you frost-burnt as frequently as half the years.

Here at Christensen’s, the full moon in May, or the ‘Flower Moon’ is something we always keep top of mind along with the average frost-free dates. Each spring, we take out our calendars, look for this ever-changing date, and wait patiently. The reason being is that many in our nursery believe that until we are past this milestone, we are still at risk of a frost. Sometimes we get lucky, and this turning point is early, and in other years- like this one, it is late.

The full moon in May was named, as other monthly moons were, by Native American tribes. In regions that were covered in carpets of flowers, the commonly used name of Flower Moon was coined. Other Native American cultures used different names based on what was occurring around them at that time such as Corn Planting moon or Blossom moon. This full moon paired with a clear night has long been believed to bring bitterly cold and unseasonable weather with the threat of hard frosts. The best example of this was the 2020 Flower Moon which brought a cold snap that extended for several days.

Depending on your source, some people believe the Flower Moon is a strong indicator, while others believe it is a long-held myth.  While researching we contacted our favorite local source for all things horticulture, Michigan State University, and asked if they knew of any scientific source that could prove or disprove the moon’s effect on frost. One response was that there isn’t much research on the connection.  Another thought is that it is likely a timing thing – which leads to conclusions that may or may not be able to be proven.

Whether you believe in the Flower Moon or not, we can all agree that, for us in the horticulture industry, a sudden burst of cold weather can be very bad news.  It is dangerous to fresh foliage, buds, and flowering trees.

As you probably know, plants spend the winter in a sleep called dormancy. This dormant period naturally hardens off your shrubs and perennials to withstand the harsh winter temperatures. However, once your plants start to emerge in the spring, we become concerned about colder temps. There are 3 types of freezes issued by the National Weather Service- Frost, freeze, and hard freeze. A frost- sometimes called ‘Killing Frost’ is just frozen dew. Water on the ground, and on the leaves of plants become frozen when temps fall into mid-30s, and winds are calm. A freeze is when temps are at 32 degrees and conditions such as wind prevent the formation of frost. Lastly, a hard freeze is the most serious and occurs when temps drop below 28 degrees for an extended period. It is worth noting that the length of freeze overnight matters. A 1-hour freeze before sunrise is not as worrying as an hours long freeze in the middle of the night. All types of freeze warnings must be recognized, and a plan of action set in place.

The Flower Moon this year is late and will not occur until May 23^rd. If you pair the Flower Moon with the averages that range from May 23^rd to May 27^th, depending on where you are, you will want to watch low temperatures and come up with a plan to combat the frost. Houseplants or potted material can easily be moved inside and out of the cold. In a nursery setting, or in your customers’ yards, here are some tips to mitigate some potential frost damage. At the nursery, we do two main things to battle against frost. Our first method is the continuous running of our irrigation. This frost protection program starts in the wee hours of the morning and runs every 45 minutes for 5-minute spurts throughout the entire nursery. This protects plants by using the heat of the water to continuously warm the plants. Our second mode of action is to use frost protection blankets. These blankets are typically lightweight but effective and do a nice job of keeping the frost from hitting the newly flushed leaves and buds. This method is less practical when talking about protecting an entire nursery, but a very effective plan for flower beds, or to cover smaller groups of our flushed perennials, and Roses. Tucking our plants in before a cold night gives us the peace of mind that they are safe and sound. Some other methods used across the industry are frost fans, under tree sprinklers, keeping grass short to absorb heat, frost protection sprays, and even the use of helicopters to increase air movement.

No matter how you slice it, frost is the arch nemesis of the nursery and homeowners alike. During early spring, it is imperative that we be on watch for cold temps and potential freezes. Whether you can run continuous irrigation, or just plan on using a frost blanket, having a game plan to protect your plants is imperative. Until Memorial Day, we will be keeping our eye on the sky to ensure the best plant material possible!

A special thank you to Michigan State University’s Rebecca Finneran and Keith Mason for help with frost-free dates. MSU is an excellent source for questions on lawns, landscape, gardening and horticulture in general.  You can contact them 24/7 by clicking here. Also, check out MSU’s Enviroweather Tool by clicking here. 

/ˌrōdəˈdendrən/
     noun

First of all, “Rhodys”, Azaleas, and ‘PJMs’ are all the same!!! They are all officially part of the rhododendron genus. They are one of our most popular stars of spring. All of those stocked at Christensen’s are Broadleaf Evergreens, flower in the spring, stay leafed out all year, and start the process over again. (We do not stock deciduous Azaleas anymore but if you need them, we will get you some.)

I also like ‘Boursault’, again another purple flower (heading towards pink). ‘Boursault’ is a Rhododendron catawbiense hybrid and is short. It will reach 5-6’ max. Both are those hardier H1 hybrids.

Last on my list of Rhododendrons is the small-leafed “PJM”. ( FYI: PJM is a series developed by Peter J. Mezitt and his son in the 1930s to be exceptionally winter hardy.) They are getting very hard to find. Sometimes we get ‘PJM’, ‘PJM Elite’, or ‘PJM Regal’. They are all very similar and can work interchangeably. All have the same ‘PJM’ flowers and will reach 3-5’.

In late fall, besides the trees changing colors, you will also notice a change in your perennials. In this article, I would like to discuss fall perennial practices. Topics will include fall cleanup, which perennials should be cut back vs. which should not, perennial varieties that provide habitat for local wildlife, and how we close up the perennial greenhouses in the nursery. These tips should help with the overwintering process.

On the flip side, there are a few arguments for leaving some perennials in your garden alone. To protect the habitats of birds, and beneficial insects, you could consider not cutting Rudbeckia, Echinacea, Eupatorium or perennial sunflower. These seeds will provide food throughout the winter. If your home is close to wooded areas, meadows, or contains a brush pile, your garden may be even more habitat friendly. Some perennials that I would not cut back in the fall would be Asclepias, Ferns, Heuchera, and Dianthus. This is to protect the crowns during the harsh winter. Perennials are more cold-hardy when their stems are left intact. These stems can trap in snow, and work as an insulator for their crowns. A quick clean-up in the spring, and these will be just fine. The last reason why I would consider leaving some perennials be, would be their winter interest. Some stuff just looks awesome covered in snow! Species with stiff stems, or flat or cone-shaped dried flowers have a great winter look! Things like Sedum Autumn Joy, Ornamental grasses, or Echinacea Purpurea add to a garden’s winter beauty!

It is also not uncommon to line an entire house with some of those winter tolerant varieties to both save space, and act as a buffer for other material. We also have one heated structure that we use to protect our grasses (mainly Miscanthus, and Pennisetum varieties), from ever freezing. By keeping minimum heat on our grasses, we are ensuring a healthy, happy grass come spring.

Whether you are overwintering perennials in your landscape, or at your nursery there are many factors to consider. Moisture, temperature, snowfall, and sometimes just plain old luck are all factors that will determine how your perennials fare over a long winter. Keeping in mind potential winter damage, bird and insect benefits, and most importantly, what’s best for the plant, will ensure a seamless transition to the brisk winter days! Happy spring clean ups!

In every lovely garden, there live lovely creatures. Sure, most people wouldn’t find loveliness in critters like slugs and snails. Despite their proven reputation of treating gardens like their personal buffets, I have always been fascinated by them. Let’s face it, they are cute creatures. The leisurely way they move about, the cartoon-like features… there’s something special about them. That being said, they are a pain and can be detrimental to your job site. This article will provide you with some tips on how to keep them away from your plants without harming them.

Slugs and snails are part of the Gastropoda, combination of Greek words gastros (stomach) and podos (feet), under the phylum mollusca (mollusk). Is there a difference between the two? Aside from the obvious shell that differentiates them, not much. Snails tend to be slightly faster than slugs, but other than that, they are quite similar and will eat as much as the other.

While they are notorious garden menaces, they are also helping your landscape as well as feasting on it. Slowly but surely, slugs/snails will break down garden debris and turn it into nitrogen rich fertilizer that enhances soil nutrition (similar to worm composting). Not to mention, albeit a bit morbid, they are a natural food source for other insects and critters such as spiders, birds, frogs, snakes, and toads.

What kind of plants do they like to eat? Anything. They don’t discriminate. However, they usually nibble on the tender leaves and stems of seedlings.

The big question is, what’s attracting them to your landscape? Slugs/snails tend to dry out quickly, so they love wet or damp soil that will keep their jellied mollusk bodies hydrated and happy. If you have incorporated mulch into your job site, that would be another reason why they are taking up residence as mulch tends to retain moisture. Mulch is beneficial for many reasons, so to help with this I would suggest keeping the mulch away from the base of the plants.

Since their main form of transportation is crawling, their sensitive bodies will avoid rough terrain that will irritate their skin. I would suggest creating a barrier around the plants with natural items such as coffee grounds, wood ashes, sand, or eggshells to repel them while simultaneously fertilizing the plants.

Garden debris is a perfect environment for slugs and snails to thrive in, so cleaning debris quickly after the soil thaws in the spring can help. They also tend to lay eggs in debris as well, as it’s a dark, damp, hidden place. If you are dealing with a slug infestation, it is likely that you will find eggs. They are small, jelly-like balls stuck together in slimy clumps. They vary in color but are usually white or translucent. They will typically hatch anywhere from 2 weeks to 100 days depending on environmental factors. Slugs will breed all year round, but peak months of egg laying are from March-April to September-October. To prevent more generations of slugs, rake and turn over soil in areas that have been untouched. Another method is to pour slightly soapy or salty water on identified slug larvae. This will act as a natural poison without harming your plants in the process. You could also simply pick them up using a glove and discard them that way.

While I personally love slugs and snails, not everyone shares the same enthusiasm. If you run into some of our mollusk friends this season, hopefully you find some of these tips helpful to safely discard them from your job sites while maintaining the safety of the plants.

When Does Specializing Turn Into Hoarding?

I’ll just come out and say it. I am a Collector. Over the years I have built - and dispersed – so many collections, in categories such as craft supplies, books, glass paperweights, pink flamingos, Westmoreland milk glass, hardy geraniums, hosta, tools and hardware, office supplies, and for a while in the 80’s, budgerigars. At one point I had 18 of them in a giant flight cage. Good times.

It’s an all-American pastime as shown by the popularity of reality shows about hoarders and people who bid on the undisclosed contents of abandoned storage lockers. I haven’t slid so far; I prefer to do my collecting one piece at a time.

But when does “collecting” cross the line into hoarding? To me, collection is all about doing a deep dive into a particular subject and learning as much as you can about it. When I am studying a new topic, reference books get involved, and talking to experts in the subject, joining Reddits or groups, and getting as much hands-on experience as possible. For instance, I have collected figural cast iron - doorstops, bottle openers, party favors, door knockers and bookends – for years and I am pretty good at spotting reproductions and knock-offs.

When you really love something it’s easy to get caught up into accumulating, and it can be a rude surprise to look around one day and realize there is not one more square inch in your garden to wedge a single additional hosta, even though you are pretty sure you DON’T already have one virtually identical. That’s where we get to the critical difference between a “collector” and a “hoarder”. If you can’t part with your duplicates or lesser-value pieces; the books you’ve read ages ago and won’t look at again, stuff that’s broken or stuff that you MIGHT find a use for …someday… well, now you’re slipping into hoarder territory. News flash: your kids don’t want your stuff. You might want to winnow down your belongings before it gets bad.

I am not quite there yet. Yesterday I spent ten or twelve hours moving all my house plants back indoors after their summer vacation. Somehow there are more of them now than what went out this spring. I don’t know what happened! I have plants all over the house, on shelves and étagères, under lights and crammed into the windows. I am kind of proud of the fact that I also said farewell to a few of them! I am not a hoarder after all. Just don’t ask me how many house plants I have.

Growing and caring for plants is my passion. As if growing tens of thousands of perennials a year here at Christensen’s Plant Center wasn’t enough, I have taken my love for plants home with me. I currently have 20+ houseplants that I care for. The key to success is knowledge and experience. It is important to know what to do, and what not to do. Proper plant care will ensure that your plants thrive, and do not suffer or die (my death count is quite impressive). It has taken years of trial and error to figure out what works best, but I am still learning. If you have any interest in becoming a houseplant novice, this article will provide tips, suggestions, and things to consider.

Houseplants have different demands, requiring individual watering, sunlight, and soil needs. You will want to know each plant’s distinct needs when choosing what to grow. I recommend starting with easy-to-grow houseplants and then move up in skill level from there. My favorite plants to grow are Pothos varieties. These are vining plants that can get very long. Once they get lengthy, they can be “chopped and propped” which means they can be cut into pieces for propagation. To propagate, I cut off a 3-4” piece right below a leaf node (where the leaf meets a stem), place in water, and watch them root. Once rooted, I place them in a pot of soil, fertilize, and watch as they take off. The ability to propagate is one of my favorite features of these plants. Pothos, Snake Plants, Bamboo, Peace Lily, and Spider Plants are among the easiest to grow. While Orchids, Ferns, Fiddle Leaf Fig, Succulents (like string of pearls), and air plants are among the most challenging. Consider how much time, and effort you have and are willing to give to plants at home when deciding what to plant.

Another factor to consider when growing houseplants is watering needs. Some plants can be watered once a week, while others would prefer once a month (or when soil dries out completely). I also like to water my plants on a schedule and mark it on my calendar. I always check the dampness of soil with my finger before adding more water. Overwatering is an easy way to kill houseplants, succulents especially.

Growing houseplants is beneficial to mental and physical health, air quality, productivity, connectedness to nature, and is aesthetically pleasing as home décor. For these reasons, I highly recommend growing and enjoying houseplants in your space. This hobby is something that keeps me happy and busy, and maybe you will enjoy it too.

**Authors note: Husbands/wives/partners/roommates etc. are not always as enthusiastic as you are about turning your home into a jungle. Please keep that in mind when trying to fill every space available with houseplants. Be sure to use the above benefits to try to persuade them! However, compromise might be necessary.
HAPPY PLANTING!!

When I was growing up my father and I planted gladiolus corms in our flower garden next to the house. I remember their bold colors reliably displaying each summer. When I moved into my own home years later I found all sorts of new and exciting colors available. They were beautiful that first year, but the following year I noticed that most of my glads didn’t come back. After some internet-sleuthing I realized that they are supposed to be lifted and stored inside for the winter. So why did they always come back when I was a kid?

Microclimate perhaps? Our main flower garden was against a south-facing brick wall, with years of compost mixed into our sandy soil. Glads don’t like a wet bum, so our native, well-drained soil was a good match. The sun-exposed brick wall warmed up the soil, tempering the chilly winter ground.

Could it have been the heirloom varieties we grew? I’m generally a believer that local heritage varieties are hardier. This seems to be the case with gladiolus. In my experience the new fancy ones, though beautiful, are hit-or-miss with successfully overwintering in our area.

Here are some tips to help you on your way to beautiful spires of color each year:

Plant in pots

Be sure your pots are large and heavy enough so the flowers won’t blow over, also make sure they have drainage holes. Add rocks to the bottom of the pot, top with a sandy soil mix. For an extended blooming season plant pots a couple weeks apart, or mix varieties in the same pot. You can add supports to help the spires stand up as they grow tall. There are shorter, and even dwarf varieties available that may work well in pots without support or the fear of wind damage on balconies. After the flowers are spent it could be a good time to move the pots somewhere less conspicuous, as the plant does not rebloom. Sometime before the first frost, dump out the pots and collect the corms, set them somewhere where they can dry in the open air for a couple days, then lightly cover them up to dry further. For final long-term winter storage place them loosely in layers in a cardboard box, separating layers with newspaper. Keep them in a cool dark place where they may nap until spring, protected from animals and sub-40f temperatures.

Leave ‘em in the ground

With a little bit of luck and some forethought you can have success simply leaving your glads in the ground! Moisture and extreme cold temperatures are what you’re trying to manage. To this end, I have found that digging trenches in sunny areas that are not prone to spring puddling works out well. Planting next to a sun-exposed wall is even better! Dig the trench about 14” deep and fill the bottom 3” with rocks. Mix some native soil with whatever amendments are needed to build a sand-heavy blend with a modest amount of organic matter. Plant the corms at various depths as you fill the trench with soil. I’ve sunk ‘em down 8” with no problems. Hardier varieties such as ‘Violet Queen’ and ‘Atom’, as well as many old heritage classics may help you gain an edge on the colder weather.

Glads will do well with a mulch covering the soil and a balanced fertilizer after emergence.