Plant care – Page 5 – Sticks & Stones

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Five steps to quality

little wilt on these oakleafs

What goes into Christensen’s Plant Center having the freshest, most viable stock?

It began years ago when Lee Christensen (and probably before him his dad Pete) sought out material from the finest growers in North America. When Lee passed on the company to Tim Joy and Frank Huber, that sourcing experience of finding nice material at a good value was part of the deal. Over the years Christensen’s has cultivated relationships with a number of top-notch vendors, and our current Investment team of me, Kim Roth and David Dermyer as well as Frank Roth at Rushton Farms are focused on nurturing and expanding those relationships.

checking the shipping documents

Secondly, the material is shipped by trucking companies we broker ourselves, then unloaded by our highly trained (and sometimes overworked) receiving staff. They can unload 8-12 trucks in a day and 1000’s of boxwood and yews in a week. All plants are placed in our facility under irrigation, both in the yard or the field. Maintaining that irrigation system is a top priority for our yard manager Chris Nielson (assisted by Rigo).

Third, the material is evaluated and approved as it gets unloaded or shortly after. If we see anything wrong, it gets rejected. If I wouldn’t buy it for myself, why would I sell it to you? Sub-par material is often put right back on the truck.

inspectiong some boxwood

We make sure that plants are viable, rooted, and healthy. Plants that don’t pass this evaluation are removed from inventory immediately. Rarely, we receive trees in the spring that are rejected for quality but are not able to be shipped back to the vendor. We put the best of them in our “2%” area, and offer them to you at shockingly low prices.

We do want to be fair to our vendors, so if material arrives early in the year, we give the plants till early June to come out of dormancy. It’s amazing how some will take that long (like trying to wake up a teenager on a Saturday morning).

Finally, the other main force for refreshing our stock is you, our customer. Quick stock turns are key. If you’re busy planting, our staff is busy doing what Lee, Tim and Frank have trained and asked us to do. We are experts at finding quality material and are ready to provide what you need for your installs.

We know your success is our success, and we are glad we can help.

Dan Alessandrini

Beware the late frost!

Hoarfrost

Barring tornadoes and earthquakes, few weather occurrences strike fear into the hearts of the avid gardener, landscaper, and nurseryman like a late frost. We have no control over Mother Nature, if she decides she wants to paint everything white on a chilly spring morning. But there are things we can do to protect our plants.

Frost occurs on clear still nights. In late spring a light frost (28-32 F) can harm tender plants, magnolia blooms, and can kill annuals. A hard frost (25-28 F) can kill root hardy perennials and harm new leaves on woody plants. Below 25 F can harm many plants in late spring, mainly due to desiccation. Since temperatures can vary a few feet off the ground, smaller plants can be affected by a frost even if your thermometer reads above freezing. Most weather stations and apps will report a frost advisory, so pay special attention if you have vulnerable plants. Making sure to select plants that are suitable to the Hardiness Zone where they are being planted will reduce the risk of damage, and reduce anxiety over frost.

Hoarfrost

Types of frost include Hoarfrost (feathery white frost crystals), Rime (fog or dew frozen into a glaze), and Black Frost which is when there is no actual frost formed but the low temperatures are still harmful to the plants.

When is it safe to stop worrying about frost in Michigan? That depends on where you live. According to the Climactic Data Center website, in Ypsilanti it’s May 5th, in Detroit and Ann Arbor it’s May 10th, in Flint and East Lansing it’s May 28th, and if you live in Tahquamenon Falls it’s July 9th. Unfortunately nature doesn’t consult the Climactic Data Center website and can easily send a harmful frost your way beyond these dates, so be vigilant in late spring.

Some trees that are susceptible are early budding evergreens such as Black Hills spruce and Concolor fir, and deciduous trees including Sycamore, Lilacs, and Honeylocust.

So what can you do to protect your plants during a late frost? If you haven’t planted them yet and you have the space, bring them indoors (a garage, shed, or enclosed porch will do). Smaller plants can be covered with overturned pots or buckets, and larger plants can be covered with fabric, old bed sheets, or burlap (be prepared and have these items on hand before you need them). Another good method is to use your irrigation system. Watering your plants before and during below freezing temperatures helps prevent desiccation, and the water has and insulating effect on the plants and soil.

What if your plants are damaged by frost? If they are annuals or garden vegetables, they are probably toast. The effects on most landscape plants is cosmetic and plant survivability is good. The healthier the plant is, the more reserves it has to push new growth, so it is important that the plant is in the right environment and is well fed and watered.

Hopefully we don’t have to fret much longer about frost as the warmer months head our way, but don’t let your guard down yet. The Late Frost will get you if you do.

Frost damage
John Mollon

When should you use Holly-tone®?

Holly-tone

Holly-tone ® is a fertilizer designed to feed plants that prefer to live in acidic soils. Some examples of acid-loving plants are: azalea, dogwood, rhododendron, ferns, hemlock, holly, hydrangea, juniper, arborvitae, magnolia, Japanese Andromeda (pieris), pachysandra, vinca and many other evergreens.

Holly-tone

In new plantings, dig a hole twice as wide and about as deep as the root ball. Add some compost, humus, or sphagnum peat to the soil - not too much, current recommendations are to use mostly native soil when backfilling.

Add one cup Holly-tone ® and mix thoroughly. Holly-tone ® is an organic, slow-release fertilizer and is enhanced with Bio-tone ® microbes, so it is very safe to use.

Established acid-loving plants should be fed twice yearly, spring and late fall. Sprinkle Holly-tone ® around like adding salt and pepper to food. If the area to be fed is mulched it is preferable to remove the mulch, feed, and then restore the mulch on top of the application of plant food.

Shrubs such as hollies, azaleas, and rhododendron use 1 cupful of Holly-tone ® per foot of branch spread. Double the quantity if spread is 3 feet or larger. In the spring, trees such as hollies, hemlocks and juniper use 1 lb.* of Holly-tone ® per inch of trunk diameter. Triple the quantity for diameters 3 inches and over. In the fall plants should be given a light feeding in the late fall.Use half the quantities recommended for the spring.

*One pound of Holly-tone ® equals approx. 3 cupfuls

Rhododendron
David Krajniak
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