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How to shear boxwood and yew

Sheared taxus

People are always asking me about the best time to prune the shrubs they've installed or are maintaining.  For flowering shrubs the answer is easy - prune right after they’re done blooming. Late pruning in this case is bad since you’re removing the next season's flower buds and most of your clients would not be happy about that.

Buxus ready for next shear

Boxwood (Buxus) and yew (Taxus) are a little different as flowers are not necessary or desired. First and foremost, always use very sharp pruners or shears, to make the pruning easier and reduce damage to the plant. To maintain trimmed forms and hedges you ideally need to shear twice a year. Once in late May or early June after the initial foliar flush, and then a second time around August. This causes the formation of lateral buds which help maintain denser growth. 

Sheared buxus

Keep in mind that shearing a plant to the same exact size every year causes the outside of the plant to become very dense, leaving the interior bare. Allowing for a slight increase helps delay the need for an extreme renewal pruning or plant replacement. Try not to prune during a drought period, and to prevent foliar freezeback pruning should never occur in late fall or winter. If you’re only going to shear once a year, try to do it around August. 

taxus with tight shear

When shearing hedges, taper them so that the top is narrower than the bottom, so all sides will be exposed to sunlight. This will give you a slightly pyramidal shape. Avoid at all cost the inverted pyramid look, as this even further screens sunlight and eventually kills the bottom.

Taxus hedge

Both boxwood and yew are very tolerant of shearing and with proper technique will remain attractive and functional in the landscape for many years. 

sheared taxus
Bill Ten Eyck

Are native plants always better?

amelanchier berries

Native plants have their place in landscaping. It is in native areas. Attempting to force native plants into landscapes in urban areas is difficult for everyone and everything. The plants will have a difficult time being successful in those conditions, and often the property owner and the landscape contractor are not prepared for the amount of maintenance it will take to make this successful. And neither are prepared for the financial commitment to make this successful.

For the last several years there has seemed to be a push to have more natives included in landscapes. To say that I am not a fan of this is not a secret. But it is always nice when someone with Ph.D after their name supports your position. Please read the below article by Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott about how native plants might not be good choice for most landscapes in urban areas.

Aronia melanocarpa

Black Chokeberry  (Aronia melanocarpa) a Michigan native

The Myth of Native Plant Superiority:

"Always choose native plants for environmentally sustainable landscaping."

by Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D.

Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor
Puyallup Research and Extension Center
Washington State University

The Myth

In recent years, people have become more interested in native plants and landscapes as natural ecosystems continue to shrink. This admirable dedication to our natural world heritage has manifested itself in native gardens springing up in every place imaginable. At the same time, I see more of these native gardens suffering from disease, pests, and general decline. What’s happening? Aren’t native plants supposed to be resistant to local pathogens and parasites?

The Reality

There are some urban areas where many native plants just do not survive (or do so only with substantial maintenance). Such areas can include parking strips, traffic circles, and parking lots: in short, areas with limited soil area and a lot of environmental stress. Consider the realities of these landscapes:

  • Discontinuous, dissimilar layers of topsoils and subsoils with poor drainage and aeration
  • Significant compaction and other physical disturbances as a result of animal, pedestrian, and vehicular traffic
  • Alkaline pH due to leaching of lime from concrete
  • Inadequate or improper fertilizer application
  • Lack of mulch or other soil protection
  • Lack of adequate water in summer months
  • Increased heat load from asphalt reflectance
  • Air pollution

Many of the trees and shrubs native to our region evolved in thin, acidic soils with adequate moisture to maintain soil and plant water status. When these species are installed in urban landscapes with significantly different soil and water characteristics they are challenged by a new set of environmental circumstances. As landscape plantings begin to suffer from multiple stresses, they become prone to invasion from opportunistic insects, bacteria, and fungi. Stress can weaken a plant’s natural resistance to local pests; witness the recent decline in our native Arbutus menziesii (Madrone) populations.  

Arbutus_menziesii

Another example of the failure of native trees to survive in urban sites comes from Palm Desert, CA. Many of the parking lots there were planted in native mesquite. Mesquite survives in its arid environment by developing both a deep taproot and an extensive shallow root system. When planted into the very limited soil spaces typical of parking lot tree wells, these trees often tilt or topple as a result of insufficient lateral root development.  The City of Palm Desert has recently looked to non-native tree species, including ash, to replace mesquite in these settings.  

The Bottom Line

  • Native, temperate forest plants are excellent choices for unrestricted sites with acidic, well-drained soils.
  • For sites with limited, alkaline, and/or poorly drained soils, choose species adapted to environments with similar soils. Consider especially those species that tolerate clay soils.
  • For sites exposed to increased heat load, choose species adapted to hot, dry climates that can also tolerate cool, wet winters.
  • Instead of installing large trees into limited sites, consider smaller trees or shrubs that can be arborized.
  • Be sure to protect soils with mulch, especially where foot traffic causes compaction.
  • Site considerations should always dictate plant selection.

For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scott’s web page at ​The Informed Gardener.

Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott Phd

Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott has a Ph.D. in Horticulture from Oregon State University and is an ISA Certified Arborist. She is Washington State University’s Extension Urban Horticulturist and an Associate Professor in the Department of Horticulture, and holds two affiliate Associate Professor positions at University of Washington.

She is the author of three books: the award-winning, horticultural myth-busting The Informed Gardener and The Informed Gardener Blooms Again, and Sustainable Landscapes and Gardens: Good Science – Practical Application, a comprehensive approach to the science behind urban horticulture and arboriculture.

Two other books are in progress: How Plants Work – A Gardener’s Guide to Plant Physiology (Timber Press) and an update of Art Kruckeberg’s seminal work Gardening with Native Plants (University of Washington Press). She has published extensively in the scientific literature magazines as well as in popular magazines such as American NurserymanOrganic Gardening, and Fine Gardening. She and three other academic colleagues host “The Garden Professors” blog and Facebook page, through which they educate and entertain an international audience.

This article was reprinted in The Michigan Landscape magazine, a publication of the Michigan Nursery & Landscape Association (MNLA.org).

Reprinted by permission to Sticks & Stones, June 2018

Eric Joy

Spotlight on ornamental conifers

obtusa aurea

Coniferous evergreen shrubs can be used for foundation plantings, hedges, screening, topiary or a stand-alone focal point, and if planted in the right location, they never disappoint. Narrow, wide, tall, or short and in shades of silvery blue to green to yellow, evergreen shrubs bring four-season appeal and must be included in any quality landscape design. 

Chamaecyparis brings many questions each year, and I’ll highlight some of our favorites.

Chamaecyperis obtusa - Hinoki Falsecypress: The obtusas have flattened sprays of arborvitae-like foliage. There are dozens of varieties available to the trade. These are the ones we try to carry every season.

C. obtusa ‘Aurea’: Full-size golden variety with spreading, graceful branches. The outer foliage is golden with a green interior. Can grow up to 12" per year. Use as a specimen or in a group as a focal point.

obtusa aurea

Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Aurea'

C. obtusa ‘Nana Aurea': Dwarf version of 'Aurea'. Slow growth rate of 1-6" per year. Maintains golden color all year long. High impact in a small package!

obtusa nana area

Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Nana Aurea'

C. obtusa ‘Crippsii’: Broadly conical with spreading branches and pendant sprays of bright, yellow foliage. Best in sunny or partially sunny areas. Good winter color. Excellent specimen. Growth rate up to 12" per year.

obtusa crippsii

Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Crippsii'

C. obtusa ‘Gracilis’: Broadly pyramidal and compact, the dark green lacy foliage is elegantly swirled. The rate is moderate, averaging 6-12" per year. It can reach 5-10' in ten years. Stunning specimen plant.

obtusa gracilis

Chamaecyparis obtusa 'Gracilis'

C. obtusa ‘Nana Gracilis’: Dwarf version of 'Gracilis', growing 1-6" per year. The rich green color makes it a focal point in any landscape design. An irregularly globose form that is beautiful pruned or natural. A favorite of bonsai artists.

obtusa nana gracilis

Chamacyparis obtusa 'Nana Gracilis'

Chamaecyparis pisifera - Threadleaf Falsecypress

C. pisifera ‘Filifera Aurea Nana’: This beauty is not a genuine dwarf, but a slow growing cultivar that can reach a height of six feet, though that is not common here in Michigan. Bright greenish-yellow to golden whip-like leaves and branches that grown into a haystack mound, this popular plant is hard to keep in stock!  ‘Golden Mop’ is a mutation of ‘Aurea Nana’ and a true dwarf. Other cultivars we carry are ‘Golden Charm’, ‘Golden Mop’, ‘King’s Gold’,  and ‘Lemon Thread’. We stock them all, but not all the time.

filifera aurea nana

Chamaecyparis pisifera 'Filifera Aurea Nana'

We are always looking for plants that will make your design stand out and these varieties deserve your attention:

Juniper chinensis ‘Daubs Frosted’: Light golden-yellow new growth matures to soft feathery bluish-green. We will have some this year on standard.

juniper daubs frosted

Juniperus chinensis 'Daub's Frosted'

Thuja plicata 'Whipcord': Hard to believe that this is an Arborvitae! 'Whipcord' is a dwarf selection of Western Red Cedar. It's a slow grower, getting only about 3' wide in ten years. The unsual whip-like branchlets give it a soft, mop-like appearance, making this a fun accent plant in the landscape.

thuja plicata whipcord

Thuja plicata 'Whipcord'

In closing, evergreen shrubs are an important element in any good landscape design. Next time you’re in the Plant Center have a look at the new varieties, and the great selection of ornamental conifers we carry. We are always looking for plants that will make your design stand out.

Clint Rasch

New plants for 2018

Hydrangea Tint Tuff Stuff

The new season brings new projects, landscape designs and the opportunity to bring new plants to your landscape plans. One of the best things about working for a large wholesale nursery supplier is the spring, and seeing all the new plant varieties we are bringing in. Here are just a few of my favorites.

Aronia melanocarpa Low Scape® Mound: White spring flowers followed by purple berries. Glossy foliage and compact mounding habit make it ideal for mass planting, edging, or groundcover. Bright red fall color make it a full season winner. Grows 12-24"h x 18-24"w.

Deutzia x rosea ‘Nikko Blush’: Compact, low growing form with soft pink flowers in the spring and deep burgundy fall color. Perfect for foundation plantings or a low hedge.

Hydrangea Tuff Stuff

Hydrangea serrata Tuff Stuff ™ and Tiny Tuff Stuff ™: Hardy, re-blooming reddish-pink lacecaps that bloom on old and new wood, from early summer to frost. Blue color with acidic soils, and pink with alkaline. Bud hardy, bloom reliable and a real beauty! 

Spirea Candy Corn

Spiraea Double Play® Candy Corn™: Bright candy apple red foliage emerges in spring and matures to a bold yellow. New leaves the rest of the season are blaze orange. Great for mass planting, borders or hedges. Grows 18-24"h x 18-30"w. 

Physocarpus Little Devil™ ('Donna May'):  This compact Ninebark has dark burgundy-green foliage. Small purplish-white flowers in late spring. Low maintenance and mildew resistant.

Coral Knock Out Rose

New Knock Out® and Drift® landscape roses:

Coral Knock Out® ('Radral'): Good bloomer, unique deep coral color. Upright to rounded habit. New foliage is bronze red. Blooms spring through fall.

Peachy Knock Out® (Radgor'): Pink petals with yellow centers, giving a peach effect. Blooms abundantly from spring through fall.

White Knock Out® ('Radwhite'): Single flowers are crisp white. Dark green foliage, new growth almost black. Blooms spring through fall and maintains a compact habit.

Lemon Drift® ('Meisentmil'): Newest addition to the Drift® series. Compact, rounded groundcover rose. Bright yellow flowers. Grows 1.5' h x 2'w. Great disease resistance and drought tolerance.

These are just a few of the new woody shrubs available this year. So before you draw up your new landscape designs, consider these new offerings for 2018.

Clint Rasch

Ultra Violet in 2018

Pantone Ultra Violet

Did you hear? The Pantone color of the Year is "Ultra Violet". Interestingly, both the Landscape Perennial of the Year and the 2018 Shrub of the Year feature violet tones in flower or leaf. Take a closer look, you won't be disappointed!

Purple, violet, lavender, or wine - this color brings in a whole new concept to plant choices and themes for spring. You can work this color into bold designs with yellows, whites, or reds, or create a soothing palette using grays and cream to soften. The choices are abundant when incorporating textures, shades, and different heights to the landscape.

Copyright Laurel Christensen

2018 Perennial Plant of the year - Alium ‘Millenium’

What a smart choice for spring. Deer and rabbit resistant but loved by butterflies and bees, this mounded compact allium is a beautiful addition to any landscape. 'Millenium' offers glossy green foliage and rosy purple 2” globe flowers with a maximum plant size at 20” x 15”. It is a perfect size to be a border plant, blend into rock gardens, or alone in a clump to offer texture and color. Easy to grow in moist soils, happy in part shade to full sun, and requires low water needs.

Proven Winners Weiglea Spilled Wine

2018 Landscape Plant of the Year- Weigela Spilled Wine®

This petite delight is a beauty in most landscapes. Dark wine-colored foliage pops against other plantings and structures. From the first leaves of spring the foliage remains dark and intense all season long. Not preferred by deer but enjoyed by butterflies and hummingbirds, the. tubular magenta flowers bloom for a long period beginning in late spring. Easy to grow, this compact bush measures 2-3’ tall x 2-4’ wide. This is an improved, compact version of the popular Wine & Roses® Weigela and the wide, low habit can be useful almost anywhere in the landscape.

Weigela Wine Series
Joanna Whitt

Fall Hazard tree lists explained

It’s fall; it’s planting season for trees and evergreens. This time of the year breathes new business, new opportunities, and new money into the landscape industry.

Spring tree supplies have been exhausted in many varieties. So only what is left, is grown in a pot, or can be dug in the fall will be available. Here’s the bad news. The list of tree varieties that can NOT be dug is very long! 

Unlike the spring there is a shorter recovery time for trees as soil temperatures dip below 50 degrees. Root reestablishment and elongation cease. This is significant because a tree loses about 75 to 80 percent of its root mass when dug. One source stated that only 2 to 8 percent of the root survives harvesting. This is extremely significant for evergreens and for trees especially as caliper increases. It’s all about moisture! From the moment a tree is dug until it is planted and prepared for its first long winter, moisture is the most important factor.

Desiccation is a killer.

Factors that lead to desiccation or moisture loss are key to which trees are traditionally fall-dug and those that become part of the "fall hazard" lists:

1. Thin-barked Trees

Gleditsia (Honeylocust) is on most nurseries’ hazard lists. If you have handled locusts you know that you can damage its paper-thin bark without any effort (this is strike one for this Genus).

Acer rubrum (Red Maple) also has a thin bark but is regularly dug in the fall because of its very fibrous root system, but usually in smaller caliper. I have seen maples with serious tip dieback after harder winters and for calipers over 3”. Betula (Birch) as well has thin bark - and has at least two more strikes against it.

2. Harvest Time

Spring or fall trees are usually dormant or breaking dormancy when they are dug. We usually think of full dormancy occurring when a tree’s leaves fall off or as trees have set their buds for the next season. These don’t necessarily happen at the same time. We regularly have tree varieties such as Amelanchier, Acer, Malus (Crabapple), Ginkgo, and Tilia (Linden) fall-dug and shipped with some leaves attached but their buds for the new year are set.

Gleditsia are among the first trees to lose their leaves but this does not help (see below). Quercus (Oak) may set their buds but have leaves that hang on very late in the season and in some cases only release in the late winter or early spring. As such they are considered not to be fully dormant until it is too to dig them.

3. Coarse Roots

If you have never handled bare-root stock this may not mean much to you. Acer, Tilia, and Malus to start have very fibrous root systems and dig very well in the fall. Malus actually seem better with fall digging than spring. One assumes their root systems have begun to recover. Gledtisia (again) have few, large, and very coarse root systems.

Many nut-bearing trees such as Quercus have fewer, tap roots. These types of root systems offer little support to the whole tree for moisture. Many of the these tree types do not die but result in varying types of dieback or thinning. Gleditsia will have tip dieback as well as random branch death from the trunk. Quercus will often have severe branch dieback, resprouting only off the main trunk; a very unsightly recovery usually requiring replacement. Betula despite have a fairly fibrous root system has very shallow roots susceptible to drying out and supports a very heavy branch system. Top dieback and branch death usually occur; these trees will take several seasons to recover.

Trees such as Quercus and others can be dug if they have been spring root-pruned in preparation for a fall harvesting. Many nurseries are not that proactive.

Harvesting practices have changed and advanced through the years but the industry is cautious and conservative. Be aware of fall hazard lists. They may save you much grief and even more money. The good news is that the selection of pot-grown trees is increasing every season.

Jeff Good

Oh deer!

urban deer - photo credit FaceBook

​Whitetail deer are beautiful animals. It's surprising to see how successful they are in urban and suburban areas.

You'd better drive with caution, too, especially around dusk and dawn. And where there is one, there are usually others, so watch for deer number two or three to dart across the road. Car crashes are never good for anyone involved.

Hungry deer IN MY YARD

As nice as it is to see them up close, they come for one thing, to eat our landscapes. We have no one to blame but ourselves for invading their space.

So what can we do to protect our investment? Start by putting the gun down, your neighbor might complain about the holes in their garage.

There is a list of plants that are deer resistant in our new mobile app, but if you already have everything planted or can’t find the same look you want and need to plant those edible deer plants, there are products on the market you can apply to keep the deer out or limit the damage.

Christensen’s carries a couple of products that have been tested over the past 10+ years and have produced good results.

Deer Scram by Epic is a fine granular that is applied as a perimeter defense. This all natural, organic product is easy to use and does not have an offensive odor. The product will last 3-5 weeks before you need to reapply and it works year round. It has the added benefit of being a mild fertilizer.

Deer Scram

Liquid Fence Deer & Rabbit Repellent is applied directly on the plants. It has an odor and taste the animals detest. This product will last 2-4 weeks depending on weather. The rain will dilute it quickly and it must be reapplied often.

Liquid fence

Sometimes a physical barrier is required, so we also carry Deer Fence. It comes in a 7’ x 100’ roll and can be used to protect a large area.

Fawn in Dan's garden
Dan Alessandrini

A Hydrangea with fall color? You bet!

Hydrangea quercifolia 'Ruby Slippers'

​Landscapers, what flowering shrub has been exploding in popularity for the last few years, with new varieties hitting the market every few months? What's the plant that your customers request most often - and is versatile enough to use in many situations, is easy care, a reliable bloomer, and comes in different colors?

I'm betting you're thinking HYDRANGEA.

Hydrangea quercifolia 'Ruby Slippers'

Hydrangea have been extremely popular in the past few seasons, and our biggest sellers are the ‘Endless Summer’ series, 'Annabelle', and ‘Limelight’. The primary focus on hydrangea has always been the showy flowers.

Depending on the variety, they can be pink, blue, white or even green. The pointed panicles of the PG types are dramatically attractive as they age.

Now, fall is just around the corner. It brings a change of season and a chance to enjoy another important landscape feature – fall leaf color, which hydrangea are not known for having.

Hydrangea quercifolia

One of the best flowering shrubs for fall color is the Oakleaf Hydrangea. They will have a stunning maroon to burgundy red fall color. Slow to turn in fall, color improves with each frost. Showy flowers and exfoliating bark make this a plant with year-round interest. The cultivars ‘Alice’ and ‘Ruby Slippers’ are some of our most popular varieties. The dwarf cultivars such as ‘Munchkin’ and ‘Pee Wee’ are slowly gaining in popularity too.

Hydrangea quercifolia 'Ruby Slippers'

Consider adding Oakleaf Hydrangea to your next installation. They will provide important landscape interest all season long. By trying something different, your project will stand out from the others.

Antonio Vigil

Brilliant options for fall color

Helenium

Fall is in the air. Hard to believe, isn’t it? Where has the year gone? It is almost time to start planting your bulbs, raking the leaves and fall cleaning the beds. Today I want to talk about plants that we don’t typically think of as being for fall.

We regularly think of mums, aster, burning bush, and trees like Sugar and Red maple as plants we like for fall interest. Lesser known options might be 'Autumn Joy' sedum, Japanese Anemone, and 'Little Henry' Itea.

Solidago

But let me tell you about some others! Solidago (Goldenrod) with it's bright yellow flowers, Fothergilla with it's burnt orange, red, and yellow leaves, and Chelone (Turtlehead) with it's pink turtle-head-shaped flowers.



Don't overlook Caryopteris - it's blue flowers begin late July and continue into September. This small shrub can be treated like a semi-woody perennial and benefits from cutting back low in the spring.

Chelone
Caryopteris
Helenium

My all-time fall favorite is Amsonia hubrichtii (Bluestar) - the Perennial Plant of the year in 2011. The foliage turns bright gold and at 2.5’ in the back of the border it stands out like a mini-sun. Some turn red-orange, bronze, purplish and yellow, and all are spectacular.

Another favorite of is Helenium, which grows 2-3’ tall. Also known as Sneezeweed, they bloom in a mix of delicious fall colors - yellow, browns, and red. They typically start blooming in late August and continue well into October.

Mums are great, but there are a lot of options for extending color from summer into fall. 

I would feel guilty if I didn’t at least mention Viburnums. They come in so many shapes and sizes and with different colored berries in the fall, how can you go wrong? But wait, there’s more... almost all of them get great fall leaf color. This massive genus of shrubs alone would allow you to have flowers from spring to late summer and then berries and fall color until the snow flies.

Viburnum lentago

Well sorry, but gotta go. This article gave me a great idea for pumpkin carving and I want to go get some cider and donuts and draw it out on paper! 

Kim Roth

Planting in heavy soils

Heavy clay soils are one of the toughest environments to plant in, but there are no hard and fast rules to follow. Whether the planting site is irrigated or not, and how much irrigation it’s receiving is crucial information. Here is an example: Concolor Firs will often decline and die in a heavily irrigated clay soil. In a lightly irrigated setting they will do fine.

columnar oak in raised bed

Many planting guides will tell you to excavate 2-3 times the root ball diameter and amend the soil with top soil and peat moss. This is a big mistake! When you do this in a heavy clay soil you create a large “bathtub”, which can fill up with water in a heavy rain and drown your trees and shrubs. Digging a hole just large enough to hold the root ball reduces the amount of water around the plant.

Planting a little or a lot high to grade, depending on how wet the soil is, can be a good defense strategy. Just use a well-draining topsoil to feather out from the top of the ball to the top of the surrounding soil.

This columnar oak was planted at a correct depth in a raised bed.  See below for a closer view.

columnar oak in raised bed

One of the biggest mistakes I see is planting trees above grade on the top of a berm. Trees subjected to this treatment will almost surely die! Any rain (other than an all-day soaker), runs right off the berm. In this case create a shallow basin and plant below grade to capture those quarter to half inch mini rains.

Bill Ten Eyck