As the cooling weather encourages me to change over from iced tea in the afternoon to hot tea in the morning and the blazing summer sun relaxes into a lower place in the sky, our landscape is changing too. Don't think that just because summer is over the yard must be dull and boring. In Michigan we are blessed with four seasons, each of them delightfully distinct.

When planning a landscape I love to focus on a few plants for each season so there is something to look at every month of the year. In the spring, trees are flowering and bulbs are popping up. Summer brings on bolder, more vibrant colors from blooming perennials, contrasted by thick, dark green leaves. From late summer into autumn there is an interesting transition period where some of the summer perennials are still showing off, whilst the cooler weather plants begin to display their offerings, like bright fruit and glowing fall foliage. Finally, the days become shorter and our warming sun cannot keep up with Old Man Winter. Branches turn bare, perennials retreat underground, and evergreens take prominence.

Use forethought when designing the landscape. Plant diversely and consider what each of our splendid seasons has to offer and how your plant choices will display during each. Hiding in plain sight during warmer months are the showstoppers of colder months. Leafy bushes shape the structural backdrop, whilst other plants offer contrasting foliage to your summer flowering showcase. In the fall, these ignored plants begin to get some attention. You may hardly notice a crabapple after it’s week of spring flowers, but then in the fall it begins to display shiny red apples. A juniper can get lost in the scene until it’s steel blue needle tips poke through the windblown leaves and snow.

When those first chilly end-of-summer mornings surprise you, look around and you’ll notice the Great Lakes native Joe Pye Weed (Eutrochium purpureum) standing tall. Another striking perennial is Helenium, with it’s daisy-like flowers in deep oranges and reds, blooming late summer into early fall. 

Ninebark is a fantastic three-season shrub that offers spring and summer foliage interest, late summer flowers, and has cool weather hangtime with colorful seed capsules and handsome, peeling bark. Consider Diabolo® for it’s stunning dark foliage, or Summer Wine® for a more compact version.

When snow has covered the ground, don’t fret! There are plenty of plants in our landscape to keep the winter doldrums away. The red chokeberry, for example, is a great choice for those lower damp corners that you don’t know what to do with. Aronia arbutifolia  ‘Brilliantissima’ should make your shortlist as it offers something in every season. White flowers, red fall color, glossy red berries, with dark woody twigs for the snow to settle on. Remember the clumping grasses you planted in the spring? What about the hydrangea you added soil amendments to? Standing clumps of dormant brown grasses and sturdy dried flower heads can present an engaging contrast to the white winter snow that sits atop of them.

Another aspect of our Michigan winters is the colorful population of birds. Wherever there are berries and seeds you will also find birds. Picture a tufted titmouse in a crabapple, hopping from branch to branch. For persistent fruit, Malus ‘Adams’ is still a popular choice. For a darker, almost red flower check out ‘Prairiefire’ and Royal Raindrops­®.

Color in the garden is important, but don’t forget texture. Seven-Son Flower (Heptacodium miconioides) is a plant that I recently noticed while meeting with a customer on their jobsite. It’s a small tree (or large shrub) with white flowers in late summer or early fall immediately followed by showy, red-pink calyces, and a peeling brown bark that reveals lighter tan beneath for winter interest. This is one of those plants that few people know about and they can be hard to find. We get a few in now and then and can also special order for you, so please inquire.

In my time off from Christensen’s I love going to different zoos and gardens to shoot photos. I’ve been into photography for about 35 years and now my oldest daughter is into it as well. I’m a self-taught photographer and became more interested in photography when a Lowland Silverback Gorilla threw a clump of grass at me that came within inches of my head. I wish I had been able to capture that shot!

 I shoot with a Canon EOS 800D and a Tamron 18-400mm zoom lens, and this kit gives me a lot of flexibility for shooting both landscapes and wildlife.

My favorite place to go is the Detroit Zoo. Within the past two years the zoo has opened two new exhibits that feature plant material from Christensen’s Plant Center. The new exhibits are the Holtzman Wildlife Foundation Red Panda Forest and the Devereaux Tiger Forest.

Christensen’s has supplied massive amounts of plant material over the past two years for the new exhibits. The red panda exhibit has a suspended bridge over two display areas that are fully landscaped. The pathway to the end of the tiger exhibit is spectacular, it goes on forever it seems, featuring trees, shrubs, perennials and ornamental grasses. The tiger area has tripled in size from the old display area and the tigers really seem to enjoy their new habitat.

In addition, over the past five years we have supplied plants for the river otter and giraffe exhibits, and many of the display berms and gardens throughout the entire zoo. Next time you are visiting the Detroit Zoo, look at the plant displays as well as the animal habitats, you might get some great inspiration for your landscaping designs. We know where you can get the plants!

Who's ready for a for a sneak peak of 2020? I have been very busy getting ready for next year, and I thought this was a perfect time to spill some of my excitement over to you. As the nursery industry moves forward, we here at Christensen’s want to move forward as well. So allow me to introduce you to some of the new stuff out there, as well as maybe a few older items that will be new to us.

(In no particular order)

Physocarpus Summer Wine® Black: Ho-Hum... just another dark leafed Nine-Bark. Nope! These guys clearly stand out and make a mark. The foliage is so much darker and slightly shiny. They stood out across 3 large nursery blocks of plants!

Thuja occidentalis Tater Tot®: The name alone makes it a must-have! I really like the look of this one. Although a dwarf (reaching 1-2’ tall) it is considered a faster grower than a 'Hetz Midget' or 'Danica'.

Pinus Mugo var. Mugo ‘Slowmound’ and ‘Enci’: Although not new to the world these will be new to us. ‘Slowmound’ will eventually reach 4’ tall, but it will take 20-40 years to do so. The ‘Enci’ (which has a normal mugo growth rate) will only reach 2-3’ tall. (As a comparison, a “Mugo” will reach about 20’ tall and P. m. ‘Pumilo will reach 5’ tall)

Sedum takesimense ‘Atlantis’: This one is getting awards from all over – so I had to sneak in what few I could this fall for some division work. I honestly don’t think there are any left as I think the employees around here now have them in their own gardens! I am on the hunt for more! It is a medium sized (6-10” tall) Sedum with incredible serrated cream variegated leaves tinged slightly pink. I am guessing it flowers but who cares.

New Ilex verticillata? Really?? Yep! I am sorry to all the ‘Red Sprite’ aficionados but I have found a new love affair. Ilex verticillata Berry Heavy®. It is a fall and winter showstopper! Huge masses of red berries are spectacular. Also new is Ilex v. Little Goblin® Red: It has extra-large reddish orange berries on a dwarf 3-5’ tall plant. (Both can be pollinated by ‘Jim Dandy’.)

Andropogon gerardii ‘Blackhawks’: Another WOW! This Bluestem emerges deep green to dark purple in the late spring. As the summer progresses the grass gets darker and darker, finally ending up nearly black by fall. At about 5’ tall and very upright this grass looks best en masse. PS Did I tell you that it also has awesome red-purple flowers to sway in the breeze?

I am saving the rest for next year’s surprise!

One of the biggest hurdles for planting in the urban environment is soil compaction. Heavy equipment used during the building process, or for mowing and landscaping, can cause the soil to become so compacted as to not allow roots to spread, not allow water to be absorbed or drain away, deprive the plant of oxygen in the root zone, and subsequently not allow nutrient absorption. Even foot traffic causes significant compaction. Some of the largest trees in the world have been killed by the foot traffic of people coming to see the tree, and steps have to be taken to protect them. When your dog runs the same path over and over the grass doesn’t grow due to compaction, and even animals as small as squirrels and chipmunks can make tiny trails where plants don’t grow.

One of the best methods of addressing soil compaction is a process called vertical mulching. It’s a form of aerating similar to the plugs pulled out by lawn aerating, just on a bigger scale. It’s done by drilling holes, ideally with a two inch diameter auger (something heavy duty) in a grid pattern with the holes 2 feet apart and up to two feet deep. Obviously call Miss Dig to locate utilities (248-370-6400 or 800-482-7171), and be prepared to do some irrigation repairs if necessary.

This is how it helps. Immediately it allows oxygen, water, and added nutrients access to the plants root zone. This is just the beginning of a long lasting process. In the winter, water freezes in the holes and expands causing the soil to fracture. These fractures in turn fill with water, freeze, expand, and cause further fracturing. The more this happens, the more oxygen and water are available in the root zone. The longer the holes can be kept open, the longer the process will go on. They can be kept open by adding aggregate or using soil aeration tubes (see photo). The tubes may not be cost effective for large areas, but they are better than aggregate as they leave the hole completely open to allow more water and air to reach the root zone. Also, they are capped against debris filling them up and can be uncapped to add nutrients. Eventually roots will render them useless, but by then they will have done their job.

As far as drilling the holes, you can do it manually using the biggest electric drill you can find. I rented one once that had two handles like a jackhammer with the trigger in one of the handles. A posthole digger on a tractor or other piece of equipment would work well for large areas.

For lawn aeration, pulling plugs is an excellent option for lawn health (note: this should be done when the ground is moist so the plug can be cleanly removed), but for landscape beds vertical mulching is the best method to properly aerate, and if done manually can be done in established beds. Using this method you can overcome the hurdle of soil compaction and your plants will thank you for it by growing big and beautiful.

I still remember planting my first serviceberry with my dad a long time ago – actually, a very long time ago. What struck me most were the many names for the same plant – Amelanchier canandensis, Shadblow, Juneberry, Serviceberry. Somewhat unusual at that time, little did I realize what a high-demand plant it would become. Therein lies the problem. It seems no matter how many are brought in every year we quickly run out. Landscape contractors, designers, and architects ignore so many other great similar-usage plants. Even when repeatedly told we are out till fall dig season, the requests keep coming. There are many good substitutes. In fact, there are many plants that would be better first choices!

Even more shade tolerant than Amelanchier are witchhazels. Larger, fall-blooming, native Hamamelis virginiana could match serviceberry with respect to growth rate and size. H. vernalis and the many crosses of H. mollis and chinensis (i.e.’ Diana, Jelena, Arnold Promise,’ et al.) are slower-growing but offer patio shade and a much greater color range. Native multi-stemmed dogwoods (Cornus florida and fl. ‘Rubra’) give a layered look; same usage but different than the arched or cascading habit of A. canadensis.

Also, a terribly-ignored, rugged, and problem-free group of plants are the Wrinkled Viburnums. In particular, Viburnum rhytidophyllum, Leatherleaf, and V. x rhytidophylloides ‘Willowwood’ are monsters. Achieving height and spread toward fifteen feet, they have an arching habit and are semi-evergreen. These offer spring flower, fruit, fall color, (and winter foliage interest).

A perfect match for Amelanchier ‘Rainbow Pillar’ is Cornus mas ‘Golden Glory.’ This Male Dogwood is very hardy and an early bloomer not usually susceptible to freeze damage. It has exfoliating bark and edible fruit. Its structure provides great winter interest.

Another easy sub for Amelanchier is Viburnum prunifolium, native Blackhaw, large, global, and a great bird attractor. A shrub easily surpassing fifteen feet in height and spread.

So, yes, there is life after serviceberries. I can't promise you that these or any other plants are going to be in stock when you are looking for substitutions, so don't be afraid to consider other options. Let's enhance our landscapes in terms of variety and plant health!

It’s not always all grinding and going at Christensen’s Plant Center, sometimes we crew members get to stop and smell the flowers - and during the summer - find some of them crawling with beautiful monarch caterpillars.

Monarchs are not yet an endangered species, but they and their migration are being threatened and need protecting. So at Christensen’s we started rounding up our Monarch caterpillars and putting them into mesh butterfly cages with a milkweed plant for food. Monarchs feed solely on Asclepias, using the toxins in the milkweed to make themselves very unpleasant to predators. Animals and birds who eat a Monarch caterpillar or butterfly get pretty sick from it and won't eat another. There are still a lot of losses, though, so raising and releasing them really helps boost their numbers.

They are voracious feeders, so we check them daily, replacing the host plant as needed. Once they’re nice and fat, they’ll eventually J-up (they hang, head down, in a ‘J’ shape) and morph into a chrysalis within hours. Then after about 10 days, you’ll have a beautiful Monarch butterfly. Easy, right? One day when we came into work, we had three hatched and ready to take off!

Be careful of escapees though - we had one little guy escape and he ended up morphing into his chrysalis under the table. If you have a cage with a zipper, make sure there’s no one by it when you unzip it or a caterpillar could get caught in it (yes, sadly we learned that one from personal experience). Also beware of invaders: spiders and flies love to sneak in which can be dangerous for the butterflies-in-training! Other predators include wasps, assassin bugs, ants, toads, and even mice.

Plants like Allium, Buddleia, and Liatris seem to be swarming with Monarch butterflies this time of year. Monarchs are an important pollinator for many wildflowers. Providing a safe place for Monarchs to grow and multiply is a rewarding and beautiful experience.

See here for more about growing milkweed: Milkweed for Monarchs - Michigan DNR​

Christensen’s Plant Center is very excited to welcome "Brutus" to our hard-working family. But first, let me tell you about some of our other family members.

Each one of these family members was selected to make getting your landscape material to you efficiently and professionally. There are: Betsey, Agnes, Orange Crush, Big Blue, The Twins, Red Brick, Gray Flat, Lola Ryder, and Thing 1 and Thing 2 - among others. Obviously some of us here like nicknames and in this case we have given nicknames to most of our delivery equipment.

We have three box trailers that each have drop decks and large side doors to make unloading much easier. We have five flatbed trailers designed to haul large loads of trees, shrubs and other nursery stock. We have two more flats that are designed to haul brick, wall block and other hardscape materials while toting one of our two Moffett forklift machines that we use to unload hardscape product for you on your job site.

We currently have five semi-trucks ranging from Ol’ Betsey, the matriarch of our fleet, to the Twin Freightliners, to Agnes - our first heavy hauler - and finally, our newest member, Brutus.

Brutus is a real life Michigan Special. He's a 13 speed, 18K front axle with 44K rears. 575HP with turbos that whistle when idling. Brutus is set to haul the biggest of brick loads without breaking a sweat. He’s a prefect addition to our BIG truck family.

So no matter what landscape material you need or where you need it, we have a family member to get it to you.

As a welcome to the family celebration, if you tell your salesperson that “Brutus is a Brute” we will waive the delivery charge on your next delivery. This offer is limited to one per customer and only good until 11-29-2019.

Coming soon to our family... “Axle"... Stay tuned.

My youngest daughter loves to do arts and crafts. Her favorite part of the project has always been to add “bling” to whatever it may be. Her material of choice varies between glitter, jewels, bows and stickers. It’s just not complete until it sparkles and shines like something out of a Glamour magazine. She enhances just about everything, including my dog! She likes to add her personal touch, make it look better than what it was, and I say why not?

As hardscape and landscape designers, do you have a certain type of  “bling” that is specific to your projects?

I can't talk to you about all the different things you can do with plants, shrubs and ornamentals as I have very little experience in that department, although we do have over a dozen highly knowledgeable sales staff that do. What I can talk to you about is brick. With so many different sizes, colors, shapes and textures it’s not hard to find a way to enhance any size or type of project. However, there is so much more to work with than just the concrete product itself, so let me enlighten you.

Yes, that was a well-placed pun, but seriously, lights can make a HUGE difference in any hardscape or landscape project. You can bling out a wall, walkway or outdoor living space very easily with LED step lights and up lights. We have pillar cap lights and wall sconce lights, color changing bulbs and wireless control features. You could add more illumination with a natural gas or propane fire pit or fire bowl. We stock many types of Firegear products that will add some more sizzle so your pazizzle doesn’t fizzle. Speaking of fire, how about a pizza oven with a fireplace, already scratch-coated and ready to install into the brick or stone of your choice? Maybe that’s a bit too hot, so cool it down with a fountain or small waterfall kit. They are easy to maintain and easy to install, which makes them an easy sell.

With so many types of enhancements available, finding the right one should not be hard. Many of these upgrades can be added to existing projects and what better way to reach out to your previous customers then to show them new shiny “bling”. Show them that they can sit outside by a fire, change their lights to match their college team’s colors and wait for a pizza to finish cooking all while listening to the big game.

You may nave noticed something different in our perennial pots recently. Covering the soil of some of the varieties we grow are tiny rice hulls. Sounds delicious, right? No, it's not the starchy side dish.

Rice hulls are a sustainable soil amendment with many advantages. Here at Christensen’s Plant Center rice hulls are used mostly as a top dress to prevent weeds. Our perennial production department applies them at the time of potting. Used properly, they can help control a weed problem before it even begins. If you can manage to get more rice hulls in the pot than on your person, these can be very effective.

Rice hulls can also be used in the landscape. Mixed into the top 6-12” of your garden or planting beds, the advantages include better drainage, water holding capacity, and soil aeration. And for all of you environmentalists out there, rice hulls are 100% organic and biodegradable.

As a top dress, rice hulls are great for holding moisture and preventing weeds, but there are a few downsides. THOSE THINGS ARE A MESS! Once you open up the bale, you will find it in every pocket and every shoe of those around it. Also not the best thing to use on a windy day... We've found that the most effective plants to use it on have been hosta and daylily.

Sometimes the rice hulls work a little TOO well. With plants that cannot handle a wet crown, rice hulls should not be used. Since rice hulls are to be applied ½-1” thick, that can be too much moisture. For plants like sedum, rice hulls are not recommended. 

Rice hulls are a cost effective, easy way to maintain plant moisture and keep away weeds. Just not the best to have for lunch. 

I have a problem. One the one hand, I have landscaping that I like to keep looking, well, ornamental. On the other hand, I prefer to avoid using herbicides and insecticides whenever possible. Now factor in the lack of gardening time that comes with working at a nursery and you can guess what my yard looks like by summer.

A lot of weeding can be avoided by keeping beds mulched, but what about driveways and paths? You can pull the weeds, if you can find the time to stay ahead of them. You can treat with herbicide, and depending on what product you choose, deal with too little - or too much - control. Or... you can do it the fun way - with a propane torch.

Editor's note: CPC is not endorsing this method. Use caution if you decide to try it.

What I like about this method is the instant results and minimal regrowth that comes with superheating the ground, simultaneously cooking weed roots AND seeds lying in wait. The crackling flame as your enemy combusts is also quite satisfying. You'll want to do this on a windless day, to avoid getting into trouble with smoke or sparks.

It should be noted that this is a two-man job, one person running the torch and the other manning the hose. Thoroughly douse everything down after the torch passes so you don't accidentally burn down the neighborhood. I am not kidding about this.

• Always stand with your back to desirable plantings. The HEAT is doing the killing and there can be a five-foot zone of death in front of your torch. (Don't ask me how I know this.) And look up - heat rises.
• Use a board as a heat shield to protect the edges of beds or ornamental fencing. 

• Work slowly and methodically and watch the breeze. If it gets windy you must stop!
• Water the ground the day before. You want green, short weeds, and seeds will cook better in moist ground. Do not use a torch on tall, dry weeds.
• Hose down everything thoroughly as you go so nothing is left smoldering.
• Be sure to have a spare, full tank in case you run out of propane before you finish your area.
• Older, tougher weeds can re-sprout, go back in a week or two and re-treat.
• Do not burn poison ivy - the smoke is toxic if inhaled.

The torch has an adjustment dial on the wand, you want to keep your flame just large enough to burn invisibly but not go out. As the pressure drops you can turn the dial to get more oomph. If your tank ices up stop and defrost it to get some pressure back.

This technique takes a little practice and is not for the faint of heart, but can't be beat for fast cleanups of driveways, paths, and paved areas. The torch shown is designed for clearing large areas, there are others on the market that have a smaller, more targeted flame.