There are many things that remind us of the holiday season. Hot cocoa, snowmen, Christmas Trees, and falling snow. But when you picture your decorated holiday table, there is usually a festive plant as well- the Poinsettia. This holiday classic is the Christmas gift that keeps on giving. Each year, over 70 million Poinsettias are sold in the United States during a 6-week period, making them a staple of the Christmas season- but how? And why? I decided to do some digging into this yule tide annual, to understand where it came from, and how it became so popular.

Poinsettias are famous for their bright red leaves- or bracts. These bracts are often mistaken as the flower, which is a small, not so radiant cluster, found in the center of the leaves. The bright red foliage is the most common color found during the holidays, but Poinsettias also come in over 100 colors including pink, green, orange, and white. Interestingly, the color of the bracts is determined by a process called Photoperiodism. This means the amount of sunlight vs. darkness, which changes with the seasons. Longer darkness periods (14 hours of darkness for 6-8 weeks) result in the bright red hue that the Poinsettia is famous for.

Contrary to popular belief, the Poinsettia plant is nontoxic to humans and animals. This urban legend began, after 2 children who were said to have ingested the leaves passed away. In truth, it never even happened. Despite being untrue, the FDA released a statement that “even one Poinsettia leaf can be deadly”. This caused people to turn their back on the scarlet beauty, even becoming prohibited in certain places. Studies on rats proved that the plant is not lethal, although if ingested could cause an upset stomach.

Poinsettias are indigenous to Mexico, and Central America and were introduced to the US by Joel Roberts Poinsett in the 1820s. Its popularity can be attributed to the Ecke family, who started by selling them at street stands in 1909. After realizing their natural floppy, weed-like look could be improved, the family came up with a new grafting method- cross breeding 2 varieties, to make the plant more desirable. This enhanced their fullness and made them more compact. After perfecting their habit, they began pushing the holiday favorite, and even took the plant to late night talk shows in the 1960s to help promote them. Soon the Eckes family had controlled the market on Poinsettia, at one point contributing to 70% of the domestic market. Eventually, their grafting process was published, allowing other growers to follow in their footsteps. Today, the Ecke family is out of the Poinsettia business, but growers in California continue to produce Poinsettia today, capitalizing on the Holiday cash crop.

The Poinsettia is a Christmas staple that lives on beyond just the winter season. By keeping up with water, fertilizer, and trimming schedule, you can keep them happy all year long. With the added bonus of being nontoxic, there is no need to worry about you or your animals falling ill. Although there is no true reason for these plants to be associated with the holidays- other than excellent marketing, they do not appear to be going anywhere anytime soon.

If you have seen me around the nursery lately, you might have noticed that I look a little different. That would be because I am currently 9 months pregnant, expecting my first child- a baby girl, due on July 21^st. With this article's due date, and my actual due date approaching, I wanted to think of a way to tie my baby to the horticulture industry. Not only would that make this article a memorable keepsake, but also something I could relate to on a personal level. Then it dawned on me, BABY plants! Considering the approaches of seeds, seedlings, and plugs when starting a garden or in nursery production.

Which is better when starting your own garden- seeds, seedlings, or a mixture of both? Well, that depends on how much time and money you have to invest into this project.

If choosing to start with seeds, you will have the benefit of variety. There are endless varieties of seeds available, which would allow you to grow exactly what you want. Seeds are also typically less expensive, so if cost were a factor, seeds could be a little easier on the wallet. However, do consider the added costs of materials needed for seed propagation which could include seeding trays, special tools, and equipment like grow lights (depending on your location).

Another important detail to consider is the time-consuming nature of seeds, and the time it takes to reach maturity on your selected varieties. This timing is crucial to having your crops ready when you want them. Some seeds are quick to reach maturity, such as lettuce and spinach which can be ready in as little as 30 days. Other crops such as tomatoes and peppers can take months to fruit after planting, which makes them a better option to start as a seedling. In this case, knowing your limits and making these choices based on time to maturity will be your best bet.

Lastly, when choosing seed propagation, there also is a sense of pride in growing something start to finish. That feeling of pride is something I have experienced in the past but am now feeling in a way I never thought possible. Starting something from scratch and looking back and saying “I DID THAT” is a very special feeling. Especially in the end when you see your perfect baby- or cucumber, that you grew from scratch.

Starting a garden from seedlings- or transplants, is a much easier route to get the garden of your dreams. There is no shame in letting a professional start your plants off, grow them up and then plant the established transplants in a straight row. Think of this like sending your seeds off to daycare!! The benefits of this include less planning time, less loss, and can give you more predictable results. Timing is still something to consider when planting seedlings, but MUCH less so. Instead of all of the planning of maturation times, you will just need to make sure your seedlings are not planted too late, giving them time to bear fruit by their desired harvest date. A downfall of starting with seedlings can be cost. Generally, the transplants from your local nursery are more expensive than seeding the garden. Keep the cost in mind if this is the route you are considering.

Here at Christensen’s, we do some of our own perennial production. Considering that we are not a farm, or greenhouse, we start all our production from plugs (comparable to transplants). Over the years, through trial and error, I have learned what does, and doesn’t work for us. Cell sizes in the industry range from 128 cell-teeny tiny cells, all the way up to 21 cell- jumbo cells. These individual units are called liners. Over years of experimentation, I have learned that the larger cells- 30c to 21c- work best for me. Depending on the plant, and time of year, I get the best finish out of these. There is a lot of planning when it comes to perennial production. For example, a Nepeta started past Memorial Day can finish off in 4 weeks, whereas an Echinacea started in April, will typically not be available until mid-June. My main tip is to start at your desired finish date and work backwards as to when it should to potted, crop by crop. The plug size and temperature when planting are factors you must consider. Or just come see us for all of your perennials. We’re happy to help!

In conclusion, there are benefits to starting your garden with seeds, seedlings, and a combination of both. As with most things, time, money, and determination are factors that can help make the decision for you. Choose wisely, but just know that like with becoming a parent, there will be much to learn. In my case I am going to go into it with an open mind, taking advice from those around me, while also finding my own way. I have learned that growing my little ‘seedling’ is not easy. In fact, it is the most challenging thing I have done to date. But I know the reward at the end will be the most glorious of ‘gardens’ I could have ever imagined.

Spring in Michigan is always a temperamental time. One day it’s sunny and 70, and the next day it’s snowing. Drop the words “frost free date” anywhere in a Google search and you can get the average date predicting when it’s safe to plant.  The problem with averages is that they come from data on both sides of the average and using this date could leave you frost-burnt as frequently as half the years.

Here at Christensen’s, the full moon in May, or the ‘Flower Moon’ is something we always keep top of mind along with the average frost-free dates. Each spring, we take out our calendars, look for this ever-changing date, and wait patiently. The reason being is that many in our nursery believe that until we are past this milestone, we are still at risk of a frost. Sometimes we get lucky, and this turning point is early, and in other years- like this one, it is late.

The full moon in May was named, as other monthly moons were, by Native American tribes. In regions that were covered in carpets of flowers, the commonly used name of Flower Moon was coined. Other Native American cultures used different names based on what was occurring around them at that time such as Corn Planting moon or Blossom moon. This full moon paired with a clear night has long been believed to bring bitterly cold and unseasonable weather with the threat of hard frosts. The best example of this was the 2020 Flower Moon which brought a cold snap that extended for several days.

Depending on your source, some people believe the Flower Moon is a strong indicator, while others believe it is a long-held myth.  While researching we contacted our favorite local source for all things horticulture, Michigan State University, and asked if they knew of any scientific source that could prove or disprove the moon’s effect on frost. One response was that there isn’t much research on the connection.  Another thought is that it is likely a timing thing – which leads to conclusions that may or may not be able to be proven.

Whether you believe in the Flower Moon or not, we can all agree that, for us in the horticulture industry, a sudden burst of cold weather can be very bad news.  It is dangerous to fresh foliage, buds, and flowering trees.

As you probably know, plants spend the winter in a sleep called dormancy. This dormant period naturally hardens off your shrubs and perennials to withstand the harsh winter temperatures. However, once your plants start to emerge in the spring, we become concerned about colder temps. There are 3 types of freezes issued by the National Weather Service- Frost, freeze, and hard freeze. A frost- sometimes called ‘Killing Frost’ is just frozen dew. Water on the ground, and on the leaves of plants become frozen when temps fall into mid-30s, and winds are calm. A freeze is when temps are at 32 degrees and conditions such as wind prevent the formation of frost. Lastly, a hard freeze is the most serious and occurs when temps drop below 28 degrees for an extended period. It is worth noting that the length of freeze overnight matters. A 1-hour freeze before sunrise is not as worrying as an hours long freeze in the middle of the night. All types of freeze warnings must be recognized, and a plan of action set in place.

The Flower Moon this year is late and will not occur until May 23^rd. If you pair the Flower Moon with the averages that range from May 23^rd to May 27^th, depending on where you are, you will want to watch low temperatures and come up with a plan to combat the frost. Houseplants or potted material can easily be moved inside and out of the cold. In a nursery setting, or in your customers’ yards, here are some tips to mitigate some potential frost damage. At the nursery, we do two main things to battle against frost. Our first method is the continuous running of our irrigation. This frost protection program starts in the wee hours of the morning and runs every 45 minutes for 5-minute spurts throughout the entire nursery. This protects plants by using the heat of the water to continuously warm the plants. Our second mode of action is to use frost protection blankets. These blankets are typically lightweight but effective and do a nice job of keeping the frost from hitting the newly flushed leaves and buds. This method is less practical when talking about protecting an entire nursery, but a very effective plan for flower beds, or to cover smaller groups of our flushed perennials, and Roses. Tucking our plants in before a cold night gives us the peace of mind that they are safe and sound. Some other methods used across the industry are frost fans, under tree sprinklers, keeping grass short to absorb heat, frost protection sprays, and even the use of helicopters to increase air movement.

No matter how you slice it, frost is the arch nemesis of the nursery and homeowners alike. During early spring, it is imperative that we be on watch for cold temps and potential freezes. Whether you can run continuous irrigation, or just plan on using a frost blanket, having a game plan to protect your plants is imperative. Until Memorial Day, we will be keeping our eye on the sky to ensure the best plant material possible!

A special thank you to Michigan State University’s Rebecca Finneran and Keith Mason for help with frost-free dates. MSU is an excellent source for questions on lawns, landscape, gardening and horticulture in general.  You can contact them 24/7 by clicking here. Also, check out MSU’s Enviroweather Tool by clicking here. 

In late fall, besides the trees changing colors, you will also notice a change in your perennials. In this article, I would like to discuss fall perennial practices. Topics will include fall cleanup, which perennials should be cut back vs. which should not, perennial varieties that provide habitat for local wildlife, and how we close up the perennial greenhouses in the nursery. These tips should help with the overwintering process.

On the flip side, there are a few arguments for leaving some perennials in your garden alone. To protect the habitats of birds, and beneficial insects, you could consider not cutting Rudbeckia, Echinacea, Eupatorium or perennial sunflower. These seeds will provide food throughout the winter. If your home is close to wooded areas, meadows, or contains a brush pile, your garden may be even more habitat friendly. Some perennials that I would not cut back in the fall would be Asclepias, Ferns, Heuchera, and Dianthus. This is to protect the crowns during the harsh winter. Perennials are more cold-hardy when their stems are left intact. These stems can trap in snow, and work as an insulator for their crowns. A quick clean-up in the spring, and these will be just fine. The last reason why I would consider leaving some perennials be, would be their winter interest. Some stuff just looks awesome covered in snow! Species with stiff stems, or flat or cone-shaped dried flowers have a great winter look! Things like Sedum Autumn Joy, Ornamental grasses, or Echinacea Purpurea add to a garden’s winter beauty!

It is also not uncommon to line an entire house with some of those winter tolerant varieties to both save space, and act as a buffer for other material. We also have one heated structure that we use to protect our grasses (mainly Miscanthus, and Pennisetum varieties), from ever freezing. By keeping minimum heat on our grasses, we are ensuring a healthy, happy grass come spring.

Whether you are overwintering perennials in your landscape, or at your nursery there are many factors to consider. Moisture, temperature, snowfall, and sometimes just plain old luck are all factors that will determine how your perennials fare over a long winter. Keeping in mind potential winter damage, bird and insect benefits, and most importantly, what’s best for the plant, will ensure a seamless transition to the brisk winter days! Happy spring clean ups!

What is more beautiful than Michigan in the fall? The colors around this time are brilliant! What can you do to bring that fall color home? You can consider some stunning fall-blooming perennials. One often overlooked aspect of perennial gardening is planting varieties with different bloom seasons- including fall. This is important because perennial blooms often have a short life span. Sometimes as short as two weeks! By keeping the seasons in mind when planting, you can ensure a captivating landscape with showy perennials all season long. Let me highlight my favorite fall-blooming plants and why they should be added to your next project.

Let’s start with an obvious one. An oldy but goody- the fall mum. Mums are perfect for fall because they bloom later in the season-August-October. This is usually around the time other perennials just finish their bloom cycle. Although there is debate on whether mums are perennial (best luck when insulated in the ground), they are also used in pots, or on porches for those spooky fall months. If dead-headed, you could extend the life of your mums to last the whole fall season. Available in red, orange, yellow, purple, pink, and white, fall mums will be arriving here at Christensen’s at any moment.

Another fall favorite is Anemone. Most Anemone varieties take some time in the spring to show any growth, so if you have some in the ground, do not fret if you do not see growth right away. There is an exception for the Anemone Sylvestris which is a spring blooming variety. The late bloomers don’t show color until around August and last through the fall. Varieties like ‘September Charm’, ‘Elfin Swan’, or ‘Robustissima' are a great choice. Ranging in color from white, pink to red, with adorable Daisy-like flowers, these are a perfect choice to fall.

Asters are another perfect option if you are looking for fall color. There are two different types of Aster- New York, and New England varieties. In general, New York Aster are shorter with thin  

The last plant I would like to highlight is Perovskia (Russian Sage). Perovskia comes in all shapes and sizes. Over the years, we have trialed many varieties to determine which can withstand the heat. One of the best varieties out there is the Perovskia Blue Jean Baby. Growing to 3x3 ft tall and wide, this one is great because it maintains it shape, and doesn’t get too floppy. These lavender flowers and silver foliage last all the way through fall. They also have a pleasant sage-like smell. Find varieties like Blue Jean Baby any time at the plant center.

Bee-lieve it or not, I have never, in my life been stung by a bee. In all my years working here at the plant center, I have managed to avoid that painful sting. Often by running around like a crazy person, screeching. The fear of the unknown is probably worse than the actual pain. As scared as I am, there are so many benefits to planting pollinator-friendly varieties that I would like to share with you. The pollination of food-grown crops, the growing number of endangered insects, easy maintenance, and low-cost gardening are just a few. Pollinator plants attract bees, wasps, butterflies, bats, and even hummingbirds. These benefits far outweigh the fear of the sting.

Pollination is the transfer of pollen from the male parts of one flower to the female parts of another, within the same species. Pollination results in fertilization, which is essential to fruit and seed production. This process is accomplished by insects, birds, reptiles, and some mammals. Fertilization is essential in food-grown crops such as fruit trees. Approximately 75% of the world’s flowering plants and 35% of the world’s food-grown crops depend on pollinators for their success. That’s roughly one in every three bites! That makes pollinators an essential factor in the global food web.

Another important reason to grow pollinating plants is the declining number of honeybees and other pollinators. This is largely due to human actions such as pesticide use, urbanization, emerging pathogens, parasites, and predators. US beekeepers are losing up to 30% of their colonies each year. While there are still over 2.88 million honeybee colonies in the US, some species are still considered vulnerable, endangered, or critically endangered. 

Pollinators are important for many reasons. Global food production, making sure invaluable insects endure, and helping our environment, and the important ecosystems within it thrive, are just a few. Planting pollinators is cost-effective, low maintenance, and will help you feel that you are doing your part to preserve our valuable planet. Just try not to get stung, I’ve heard it hurts!

Growing and caring for plants is my passion. As if growing tens of thousands of perennials a year here at Christensen’s Plant Center wasn’t enough, I have taken my love for plants home with me. I currently have 20+ houseplants that I care for. The key to success is knowledge and experience. It is important to know what to do, and what not to do. Proper plant care will ensure that your plants thrive, and do not suffer or die (my death count is quite impressive). It has taken years of trial and error to figure out what works best, but I am still learning. If you have any interest in becoming a houseplant novice, this article will provide tips, suggestions, and things to consider.

Houseplants have different demands, requiring individual watering, sunlight, and soil needs. You will want to know each plant’s distinct needs when choosing what to grow. I recommend starting with easy-to-grow houseplants and then move up in skill level from there. My favorite plants to grow are Pothos varieties. These are vining plants that can get very long. Once they get lengthy, they can be “chopped and propped” which means they can be cut into pieces for propagation. To propagate, I cut off a 3-4” piece right below a leaf node (where the leaf meets a stem), place in water, and watch them root. Once rooted, I place them in a pot of soil, fertilize, and watch as they take off. The ability to propagate is one of my favorite features of these plants. Pothos, Snake Plants, Bamboo, Peace Lily, and Spider Plants are among the easiest to grow. While Orchids, Ferns, Fiddle Leaf Fig, Succulents (like string of pearls), and air plants are among the most challenging. Consider how much time, and effort you have and are willing to give to plants at home when deciding what to plant.

Another factor to consider when growing houseplants is watering needs. Some plants can be watered once a week, while others would prefer once a month (or when soil dries out completely). I also like to water my plants on a schedule and mark it on my calendar. I always check the dampness of soil with my finger before adding more water. Overwatering is an easy way to kill houseplants, succulents especially.

Growing houseplants is beneficial to mental and physical health, air quality, productivity, connectedness to nature, and is aesthetically pleasing as home décor. For these reasons, I highly recommend growing and enjoying houseplants in your space. This hobby is something that keeps me happy and busy, and maybe you will enjoy it too.

**Authors note: Husbands/wives/partners/roommates etc. are not always as enthusiastic as you are about turning your home into a jungle. Please keep that in mind when trying to fill every space available with houseplants. Be sure to use the above benefits to try to persuade them! However, compromise might be necessary.
HAPPY PLANTING!!

Christensen’s Plant Center has a wide range of departments. One of them being the Perennial Department. Known to most as “The Perennial Girls”, we are the group that receives, grows, and maintains the stunning perennials you see around the nursery. This includes the beautiful material on the Perennial Lot, roses, grasses, and more! I'd like to introduce you to the Perennial production department, and all that goes into ensuring you have the best possible perennials to meet your landscape needs.

Some of you may not know, but as well as bringing in perennials fully grown plants off trucks, some of the perennials you find around the nursery are produced right here on our property. Our “west” location has greenhouses that switch over from winter storage to perennial production as the weather breaks. Spring is our busiest time. We spend our weeks potting up as much as possible, so that come summer, we have plenty of dazzling product. We grow a wide range of perennials, grasses, and even some shrubs. This spring, we even potted up some Boxwood varieties with big hope for success!

Soil mixes (which have been trialed over time), pot sizes and types, and water needs are all things taken into consideration in the production department. Hemerocallis Stella, Hosta Patriot, Heuchera Palace Purple, and Nepeta Walkers Low are all production favorites. These staples are always growing in production as a backstock to ensure that we always have some on hand. With the inventory shortages industry wide, this back stock can also come in handy when large quantities are unexpectedly needed.

Aside from the staples, we also grow some specialty items such as Peony, Dianthus, and other “funky” varieties. These diverse items are some that we have trialed over time and have proven to do well with. Being able to provide what is needed as availabilities change, is a huge benefit to the Production team!

Perennial production is a flexible department, that can adjust to both industry and customer needs. We work hard to grow and maintain our perennials to ensure that we have a fabulous product year-round! Head over to the “Perennial Girls” for all your perennial questions and needs. 

All good things in life come from a bulb, isn't that how the saying goes? Okay, maybe not, but that is certainly true with Lilium! Planted in the spring (or fall), and returning every year, lily bulbs come in many different colors, and sometimes have a speckled or brush stroke pattern.

Lilium (Garden lilies) begin blooming in late spring, beginning with the Asiatic hybrids, and the distinctive fragrance of Oriental lilies on a summer breeze is sheer delight. With a little planning one can have lily in bloom for much of the season.

At Christensen’s Plant Center, we carry many lilies. One favorite is the Asiatic hybrid ‘Matrix’. This dwarf variety will only get 16” tall, and is a vibrant red with an orange brush mark in the center. We also carry tried-and-true Oriental Lily ‘Casa Blanca’ which gets 3-4’ tall. The highly fragrant pure white blooms are perfect for a classic look.

This year, we’re excited to offer three new Lilium combination pots. We’re loving the Asiatic Pot Lily Looks™ ‘Patio Sunrise Combo’ featuring yellow, pink, and orange dwarf varieties (14-16”). This will give you a fun mix that is perfect for a patio planter or cut flower bouquet.

The second is Asiatic Pot Lily Looks™ ‘Bloom Extensions™ Orange’. Lily flowers, though stunning, are usually short lived, but with Bloom Extensions™, you could get over 6 weeks of color. Two orange-flowering varieties, carefully selected to harmonize, have been potted together. The flowering times are offset, giving a seamless show of color. This is a great way to extend the display in your client’s landscape. This is an ultra dwarf combo reaching only 12-14”.

The third is Asiatic Pot Lily Looks™ ‘Bloom Extensions™ ‘Red & Yellow’. This stunning pairing of the yellow and red-speckled ‘Tiny Nugget’ (early, 14”) and the deep red ‘Tiny Rocket’ (later, 16”) is a real showstopper.

All the Lily Looks™ varieties have been selected for massive flower production, a short, compact habit, and suitability for container growing. Quantities are limited, and the grower has sold out - don't miss these! 

Whether you are looking for something unique or classic, our selection of Lilium has just what you are looking for.

You may nave noticed something different in our perennial pots recently. Covering the soil of some of the varieties we grow are tiny rice hulls. Sounds delicious, right? No, it's not the starchy side dish.

Rice hulls are a sustainable soil amendment with many advantages. Here at Christensen’s Plant Center rice hulls are used mostly as a top dress to prevent weeds. Our perennial production department applies them at the time of potting. Used properly, they can help control a weed problem before it even begins. If you can manage to get more rice hulls in the pot than on your person, these can be very effective.

Rice hulls can also be used in the landscape. Mixed into the top 6-12” of your garden or planting beds, the advantages include better drainage, water holding capacity, and soil aeration. And for all of you environmentalists out there, rice hulls are 100% organic and biodegradable.

As a top dress, rice hulls are great for holding moisture and preventing weeds, but there are a few downsides. THOSE THINGS ARE A MESS! Once you open up the bale, you will find it in every pocket and every shoe of those around it. Also not the best thing to use on a windy day... We've found that the most effective plants to use it on have been hosta and daylily.

Sometimes the rice hulls work a little TOO well. With plants that cannot handle a wet crown, rice hulls should not be used. Since rice hulls are to be applied ½-1” thick, that can be too much moisture. For plants like sedum, rice hulls are not recommended. 

Rice hulls are a cost effective, easy way to maintain plant moisture and keep away weeds. Just not the best to have for lunch.